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Old 07-06-2004, 05:57 PM   #1
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Default XXX-S hop-ups!!

Hey guys i was wondering why there aren't many hop-ups for the XXX-S as there is for the TC3, yokomo ect. Cause the TC3 has the IRS carbon fiber chassis and all those aluminum parts. XXX-S needs to have more hop-ups. Can u plz give me links to where i can find hop-ups for the XXX-S. (Like carbon fiber parts and aluminum parts too.)

thx
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Old 07-06-2004, 06:45 PM   #2
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may want to ask in the XXX-S Thread
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Old 07-07-2004, 05:48 PM   #3
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Speedtech has silver graphite shock towers and aluminium parts. Dynamite, IRS... what are you looking for?
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Old 07-07-2004, 07:38 PM   #4
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Default Re: XXX-S hop-ups!!

Quote:
Originally posted by TL_XXX-S_racer
XXX-S needs to have more hop-ups.
Really?? The xxxs g+ has everything you need to be competitive at any level of racing. I'm not sure if Losi is including the black belt kit in the latest g+ kits, but other than that there is nothing more you really "need".

Keep in mind that if you used an aftermarket carbon fiber chassis, you would lose one big advantage the xxxs has over every other belt drive touring car...a totally enclosed drive train.
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Old 07-08-2004, 05:33 PM   #5
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The only thing I changed on my xxx-s gp was aluminium steering bellcranks and silver graphite shock towers. I just wanted the sg towers for some bling. The aluminium steering bellcranks was to get whatever slop I had out of the steering. But mwcet8k is right, if you have a xxx-s gp you really don't need anything else.
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Old 07-08-2004, 06:24 PM   #6
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The XXXS dosen't use a CF chassis for a couple reasons. One was already mentioned, totally enclosed drive train. You loose that when you go to a plate chassis. Also, the G+ chassis is next to impossible to tweek. Plate chassis cars have to constantly be checked to make sure they're tweeked porperly. And a good hit on the boards and all of a sudden you're tweeked again. A lot of "hop-up" parts are just for show and will actually slow you down. If that's what you're looking for you can get all the red aluminum you want from Trinity/Matt Francis or Dynamite. If you're looking for things to actually improve your car, all you need is the black belt kit, and all the tuning option parts such as different castor blocks, rear hubs, springs, etc... Maybe some ceramic bearings. Look at most of the factory guys, thye're not running any of that bling stuff on thier cars.
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Old 07-09-2004, 11:46 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by jkerr0043
The XXXS dosen't use a CF chassis for a couple reasons. One was already mentioned, totally enclosed drive train. You loose that when you go to a plate chassis. Also, the G+ chassis is next to impossible to tweek. Plate chassis cars have to constantly be checked to make sure they're tweeked porperly. And a good hit on the boards and all of a sudden you're tweeked again. A lot of "hop-up" parts are just for show and will actually slow you down. If that's what you're looking for you can get all the red aluminum you want from Trinity/Matt Francis or Dynamite. If you're looking for things to actually improve your car, all you need is the black belt kit, and all the tuning option parts such as different castor blocks, rear hubs, springs, etc... Maybe some ceramic bearings. Look at most of the factory guys, thye're not running any of that bling stuff on thier cars.

Do you have the black belt kit? What exactly does it do? Does it free up the tranny a little more? What hop-ups do you have?
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Old 07-09-2004, 11:54 AM   #8
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the black belt kit lightens the extreme bend in the belt where it goes through the belt tensioner, making the drivetrain more free.
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Old 07-09-2004, 12:49 PM   #9
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That's exactly right. It lessens the kink and frees things up a bit. I also cut every other tooth off of the belt to make the belt a little more flexible. This frees things up even more. That may not be the best thing for everyone to do. Also, if you're using the stock bearings, pull one of the seals out of each bearing, clean them with motor spray thuroughly, and oil them with a light bearing oil. As far as hop ups go, I have the blue alimunum shock collars because the stock ones were very tight at first and then once they break in, they get too loose and can adjust themselves. I've put aluminum screws in place of the steel ones where there's no major loads being placed, i.e. shock mounting screws. I removed the battery mounting hardware and secure my cells with strapping tape to save weight. The only other thing that I'm planning on is using the PRP front shock tower when they come out and this is only so I can use Tamiya shocks on the car. The reason for the Tamiya shocks is they're easier to build consistantly and take less time to get them matched. It's something some of the factory guys have been playing with and I'm going to try. That's really it. I don't have any of the aluminum suspension mounts or spindles or any of that stuff. It just adds weight and that stuff will just bend when you hit someting and you'll end up with a tweeked car and not know why. This car is fast out of the box. Like I said, spend the money you want to drop on all the eye candy, and get a full stock of spare parts, and all the tuning parts like the different castor blocks and hub carriers, springs, pistons, a one way (for the tracks that it'll be faster on) etc... That's what will make this car faster. Getting a good setup on it.

Wow, did I just wright all that?
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Old 07-09-2004, 12:52 PM   #10
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Here's a couple pics of my car right before the Reedy Race.

Last edited by Jon Kerr; 06-07-2007 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 07-09-2004, 12:53 PM   #11
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Nothing fancy about it. Just fast.

Last edited by Jon Kerr; 06-07-2007 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 07-09-2004, 05:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by jkerr0043
Nothing fancy about it. Just fast.
Dude, I noticed you have a 19t motor. what are you running for your pinion and spur gear
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Old 07-09-2004, 05:38 PM   #13
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Depends on the track. Right there I was geared for the Reedy Race at Tamiya. I had a final drive of 5.75. That's pretty high though. What kind of track are you running on?
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Old 07-09-2004, 05:44 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by jkerr0043
Nothing fancy about it. Just fast.
Hey Jon, a couple of questions about your car. Do you stand the receiver up to prevent interference or to move weight toward the center of the car as much as possible?? Also, I see that you're running two schottky diodes. I'm assuming this is to maximize braking power. Any other reasons?

Nice looking ride BTW. Very bling bling w/ all the blue. Did you dye those wheels black or is someone finally manufacturing them that way?
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Old 07-09-2004, 05:53 PM   #15
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Thanks. The main reason I run it on the tunnel is to keep interferance down. It gets the antenna wire right where it needs to be and keeps it away from the graphite. I also put two layers of tape and keep the bottom of the Rx off the bottom of the chassis. You can't tell from the pic but it's actually mounted on the tunnel and up just a little. The shotky's, I was testing with two and didn't really notice much of an improvement over just one. But yes, it was trying to get better braking power. The wheels, those were the only tires I had laying around after I finished building the car that weren't yellow. They're HPI wheels. They're expensive and crappy! They flex way too much and wobble pretty bad.
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