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Old 10-18-2010, 11:40 PM   #1
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Default How much do you tight your wheel nuts?

hey guys ,

I dunno if it has been covered yet but i always wondered

how much is enough when it comes to tightening wheel nuts


I have experienced a few ''alignement progblems lately'' and it got to myself that maybe all those years i screwed them in too much

do you need to actually screw them all the way in until it doesn't budge? do you just turn it until theres a tiny resistance?...


let me know your tricks
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Old 10-18-2010, 11:46 PM   #2
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I think it all depends on the vehicle itself. Some of them you can crank the wheel nuts down as hard as you want, where other vehicles if you overtighten them, it will bind. In those cases, I lightly tighten them a little at a time, checking that the wheels spin freely as I go. As soon as it starts getting hung up, I back it off a touch. Otherwise I like to make sure mine are as tight as possible, I hate losing wheel nuts even though it is funny to watch the tire go flying past the car.
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Old 10-18-2010, 11:49 PM   #3
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Never lost a wheel in a race but I've seen it a handful of times.
Like stated above; to tight and you can cause binding and unwanted drag(usually crushes or rubs the bearings in the hubs), or to loose and you can loose the wheel. Just tighten it up till it feels 'right'.
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Old 10-19-2010, 12:08 AM   #4
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I just tighten until it stops. Never thought too much into it..
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Old 10-19-2010, 12:33 AM   #5
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I torque mine up to 10-Nm


j/k

Usually another 3/4 of a turn after it starts feeling tight.

Not so much of a worry if you have aluminum adapters but I used to check by spinning the wheel with the upper camber link off and tighten accordingly.
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Old 10-19-2010, 12:40 AM   #6
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yeah it really depends on what car.... Most of the newer cars have alloy hexs that are tightened to the drive shaft so you can do them up as much as you like... But if its a car with hexs that you cant tighten to the drive shaft it will bind the tighter you go... Common sense will come into play if its binding loosen them if the wheels are fallen off well tighten them.... Also make sure your wheel nuts are in good nick too.... I use serrated nuts that when you tighten thay bind into the plastic rim and NEVER come undone but the nylock ones need to have a eye kept on them.

Hope that helps
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Old 10-20-2010, 11:27 PM   #7
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Cause i had this experience before on my friends rs4 3 evo (they are all the same even tho his was a older model) , and a sprint 2

are those care new cars? been nearly 10 years they are based on the same chassis :P

just newer names


cause i had binding issues
i never been able to set his steering straight
even resetting it to zero numerous times
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Old 10-20-2010, 11:50 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hayabusafmw View Post
cause i had binding issues
Is the binding in the steering system, or the wheels themselves? Like if you disconnect the servo from the steering, can you turn the wheels by hand? With those cars you shouldn't be able to get binding in the wheels from tightening the wheels nuts, the car uses hexes

i never been able to set his steering straight
even resetting it to zero numerous times
Have you adjusted the toe links after setting the steering to zero?
It sounds more like a bind in the steering then the wheels/wheel nuts.
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Old 10-21-2010, 12:39 AM   #9
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My XXX-S is like that. too tight and there is binding. So one day I was thinking. I decided to put a thin spacer right next to the CVD spacer that goes between the bearings. This kept the bearings from squeezing against the carrier. I also place the spacer behind the pin(in the manual). It's a tight fit for the pin but now I can tighten all the way down and have ZERO binding.
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Old 10-21-2010, 12:52 AM   #10
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Tighten them up till you strip them, then back them off 1/2 a turn... should be good from there on...
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Old 10-23-2010, 08:03 AM   #11
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Look in the face of the wheel nut, there should be a rubber lining. That acts as the locking mechanism, as long as your wheel axle's threads are reasonably, say halfway through the rubber lining, the nut will not come off. From there, tighten until your wheel is not sloppy. Binding usually occurs if you're using plastic hex hubs...

Cars with the clamp-on type wheel hub should not suffer from this as much. If you still experience binding, look elsewhere. Probably check bearings first if you're used to tightening them to the max.

Hope i helped!
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Old 10-23-2010, 08:31 AM   #12
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The good thing about wheel nuts is that they have that plastic lining that keeps them tight after put on so all you have to do is tighten them by feel as much as you can tighten them with the little wrench that came with the car without over tightening it.
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Old 10-23-2010, 08:31 AM   #13
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Just tight enough but use blue loctite and the nuts will not back off.
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Old 10-23-2010, 08:32 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryLeeWD View Post
Look in the face of the wheel nut, there should be a rubber lining.

Hope i helped!
Plastic lining not rubber.
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Old 10-23-2010, 08:51 AM   #15
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Get some serrated wheel nuts as was said before. They won't come off and you don't need to crank down on them overly hard.

I've had the standard nylock nuts that come with kits back off on me even though the nylon insert appeared to be good in the nut. Switched to the flanged serrated ones and never had a problem since.

Cheap silver ones here (8 for $3.09USD):
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSGZ2&P=7

A standard 7mm TC wheel tool is what you need for these nuts.
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