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Old 10-04-2010, 04:46 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by TeamB&B View Post
The no timing/no boost ESC specification was originally intended to slow down the 17.5 class for a Sportsman class in hopes of increasing TC participation of the new racers.
If that was the only reason, why not just go to 21.5 motors and leave the speedos alone?
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Old 10-04-2010, 04:48 PM   #32
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Pretty sure the Citrix isn't zero timing. Locked, timing, yes, but not zero.
If I still had it I would post the factory email. Zero timing
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Old 10-04-2010, 04:51 PM   #33
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KO BMC with the 1.5 upgrade!!!
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Old 10-04-2010, 04:53 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by NovakTwo View Post
How can a non-timing esc have "punch"?
My no timing 17.5 felt way more "punched" in the infield than my SS 17.5. Everything was exactly the same except for gearing and ESC profile. I was still faster in SS overall, but the rip out of the turns with no timing was undeniable. Several others made the same observation.

I've also felt the same kind of thing when comparing, say, a SpeedPassion ESC (with ramping) to a Tekin. The SP has a lot more grunt in the infield, similar to the no timing setups, but just doesn't spool up like a Tekin does. If someone could get the low end feel and drivability of the SP with the top speed of the Tekin, I think they'd have a winner. For me, I've wasted $200+ enough times on the various options trying to see if someone has figured it out. I'm just gonna let someone else do the expensive work, I'm tired of paying top dollar to test the slow, janky ESC's (I'm looking at you, blue) on the market that claim to be fast.
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Old 10-04-2010, 04:55 PM   #35
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If I still had it I would post the factory email. Zero timing
Interesting. I wonder why it's not on ROAR's list? They've approved SP's 508 software on certain ESC's.
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:16 PM   #36
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I've been asking myself that for a long time. We have a small racing community in NZ, but still get the same issues. Right now for our regional champs, we have olne of our most senior/experienced touring racers in the 13.5 class, not mod.
Having top racers stepping-down to be the big fish in the small pond has turned me off 13.5 to the point where i'll probably put a silver can back in my car...

How does it affect you that there is a fast racer in your class?

That person DID race modified for a long time but had no competition(and I'm talking numbers of entrants) at club meetings so when the other mod guys decided to do 13.5, he entered as he wanted to have fun and not race alone all the time.

Now it came as a surprise to all when there was so many entered in Mod at the South Islands(even though there was still more in 13.5). But that person already had everything set up for 13.5 and really hadn't done any running in Mod for quite a while, so is not going to change classes.

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Old 10-04-2010, 06:21 PM   #37
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I didn't mention your name, because I know you're not alone in coming down from mod. I don't feel bad about you being in the class, just reinforcing a point that it was originally a stepping stone class from stock to mod, and now it's the new Mod.
I also pointed out that we have a small racing community, and I know it would be less satisfying for you when you were the only one on the track in mod, and like you said, you just want to have fun and race.
Regardless of all of the above, it still gets peolpe like me down when I go out month after month trying to improve, but am getting left further behind as the "spec" classes get out of hand with crazy speeds.
No offence intended to anyone I race with, the country is too small to start pissing people off!
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Old 10-04-2010, 07:08 PM   #38
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The guys running at the front really want to help you out though, so you can run a lot faster. We all want more competition.

I can tell you probably 70% of running a fast time is down to setup, driving nice tight lines and keeping off the grass. Speed is a factor in any class but its never hard to ask someone for some help or download any of the pro's set ups online.

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Old 10-04-2010, 07:34 PM   #39
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Good points, look forward to continuing the conversation on Saturday.
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Old 10-04-2010, 07:48 PM   #40
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Interesting. I wonder why it's not on ROAR's list? They've approved SP's 508 software on certain ESC's.
don't know, maybe the same reason the SP 2.1 pro stock esc isn't on the list, it accepts the same software as the 2.0 and lpf do. probably not submitted.
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Old 10-04-2010, 07:54 PM   #41
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Just a FYI removing the timing from the 17.5 class does not make it a sportsman class, what it does is return the 17.5 back to "stock" status IMO
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Old 10-04-2010, 07:55 PM   #42
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What you two guys are talking about is exactly the problem.

Let's say I'm a near pro level racer. Maybe not a worlds finalist but someone that can make the occasional A at a nats level event. But, I'm not a full paid driver (though I do have some deals) so I can't afford to run "the tour". Just one or two big races a year.

Now I move to a new town with one track. They get decent turnouts and have some pretty good drivers. But do they run mod? Unlikely and if they do, it's probably just a few screw loose speed freaks bashing around. My main goal for racing here is to have fun and to keep my skills and knowledge as sharp as possible for the big races so I am going to run whatever class is the most competitive. That's probably going to be 17.5 or 13.5.

Now it's big race time. I'm a good racer so I'm looking for a good run. I would love run mod and take on the big dogs but there is a problem. I haven't run mod in a year. I have no idea what the latest speed secrets are, haven't driven a car that fast in a while and have no idea what set-up changes I need to make. But my 17.5 program is dialed. So what do I do?

Run 17.5
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Old 10-04-2010, 07:57 PM   #43
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im currently running in a 17.5 no esc timming touring class and love it. im running the hobbywing xerun 60A speedo with a lrp x12 stock spec motor (timming on the motor). i keep up with the big name speedos in speed, but am stuck in the B main because of chassis setup, and my driving

C ratings on lipos do not matter with a higher wind motor. the motor can only use so much of the power the battery is throwing out. the top racer i am running with uses the turnigy 5000mAH 20C batteries as do i and still keep up on the straight. i laugh at the guys who spend $100+ on each battery to run 17.5, when you can be just as competitive with a $20 pack
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:31 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
What you two guys are talking about is exactly the problem.

Let's say I'm a near pro level racer. Maybe not a worlds finalist but someone that can make the occasional A at a nats level event. But, I'm not a full paid driver (though I do have some deals) so I can't afford to run "the tour". Just one or two big races a year.

Now I move to a new town with one track. They get decent turnouts and have some pretty good drivers. But do they run mod? Unlikely and if they do, it's probably just a few screw loose speed freaks bashing around. My main goal for racing here is to have fun and to keep my skills and knowledge as sharp as possible for the big races so I am going to run whatever class is the most competitive. That's probably going to be 17.5 or 13.5.

Now it's big race time. I'm a good racer so I'm looking for a good run. I would love run mod and take on the big dogs but there is a problem. I haven't run mod in a year. I have no idea what the latest speed secrets are, haven't driven a car that fast in a while and have no idea what set-up changes I need to make. But my 17.5 program is dialed. So what do I do?

Run 17.5
You go the IIC and run against Hara in the 17.5 expert class. it is expert after all, stock, expert and mod, theres your new classes
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:39 PM   #45
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You go the IIC and run against Hara in the 17.5 expert class. it is expert after all, stock, expert and mod, theres your new classes
Fine by me. Never raced against Hara before but he wouldn't be the first world champ I have raced with.
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