StevenOlsen

try with a 100-104 tooth spur

RevMaxx

did my own diff gear DIY with an NT1, similar config as this. mine sucks on "looks factor" coz the screws i use to fix the pulley to the diff case protrodes, but it has run about 500 laps and is holding quite well. still looks like when i first mounted it.
but i've seen a much nicer config with the NT1 diff. they place the T3 pulley on the other side of the diff, really looks real clean, like molded parts.

KevinHawk

iTrader: (9)

haha Chris yours would be "please don't hit me in the first corner" and Andrew's would be ....... um.. ... Carpet fuzz. I like the sound of that.

Jim Frahm

iTrader: (68)

I recently purchased the following setup stations: 1/8 scale on-road, 1/8 scale off-road, and 1/12 - 1/10 pan car. The pan car setup station came with thumb screws for screwing the uprights together. Can I buy the thumb screws separatly for the other setup stations? Also, do you make thumb screws for the 1/8 scale off-road wheel nuts?

Thanks,

Jim

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

Could be worse, like "Batesy-Watesy"

P.I.M.P

iTrader: (14)

here is my DIY nt1 diff to me it looks a good job.I done slight mods so i could fit lighter out drive in as is very heavy with stock out drive the weight came in at 30gr with metal gears so i think that's as best you can get it without Capricorn gears.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

Do you have any pics of where you attached the pulley to the NT1 case?

RCknight

iTrader: (5)

All and all my kit went together perfect. I'm concerned about the rear cvds. They are too long and have no room for compression in the rear. Fronts seem fine. I'm running the spacers per the instructions.

R Dodge

Are you using the SpecR gear diff? I noticed the same thing with mine with the stock 52mm shafts. I switched to 50mm (which I preferred anyway) and had no issue.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Looks pretty good, the only difference in mine was that I used the big hole side covers, and sanded the center section so the cover could be removed with out unscrewing the gear from the center section. Good job though, told you it wasn't that tough.

KevinHawk

iTrader: (9)

haha exactly

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

[QUOTE=P.I.M.P;8277241]here is my DIY nt1 diff to me it looks a good job.I done slight mods so i could fit lighter out drive in as is very heavy with stock out drive the weight came in at 30gr with metal gears so i think that's as best you can get it without Capricorn gears.

QUOTE]


Nice, are those the 3racing outdrives?
Looks like you machined inside the outdrive to fit the bigger Xray balls, how did you do it?

RCknight

iTrader: (5)

No I'm using the ball diff. Seems the kit should be using 50mm shafts as the 52mm seem to bind using the suggested shims.

R Dodge

Interesting. Sorry I can't help, I've never run the 52mm shafts on the rear of my T3 so I have no experience with this issue. I'd assume the issue comes from the design change on the front mount of the rear arm causing the arms to be pulled in towards the diff. This is honestly the first I've heard of this issue but I don't know if that might just be because I don't keep up on the threads much, or if everyone else has quietly accepted it and switched to 50mm shafts. I'd figure the 52's should work though, since they are what comes with the kit...

KHoff7

iTrader: (5)

How narrow is your rear track width? If you run the car really narrow or if you use too much camber the driveshafts will bind.