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Old 12-17-2010, 07:55 AM   #616
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Originally Posted by Drew Ellis View Post
Yes pretty much the whole team ran the link. Xray should be having the setup sheets on there site for us to post.

Thanks Drew
Ive been trying to find pictures of the hillbilly link on here can someone lead me to one

thank you
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Old 12-17-2010, 08:39 AM   #617
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Ive been trying to find pictures of the hillbilly link on here can someone lead me to one

thank you
Sorry I looked for a picture and could not find one. I'm not running that link anymore. But if you want to try it you will just need some longer turnbuckles like 35mm. The link mounts to the top of the castor block like the stock one, but the link on the tower goes to the alum. part where the shock tower mounts. You just don't run the bottom screw for the shock tower. Use a pivot ball that has a screw on it and thread it though the bottom of the alum. mount. And that is the Hillbilly link. Hope that helps. A pic would of been easier.

Thanks Drew
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Old 12-17-2010, 09:53 AM   #618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Ellis View Post
Sorry I looked for a picture and could not find one. I'm not running that link anymore. But if you want to try it you will just need some longer turnbuckles like 35mm. The link mounts to the top of the castor block like the stock one, but the link on the tower goes to the alum. part where the shock tower mounts. You just don't run the bottom screw for the shock tower. Use a pivot ball that has a screw on it and thread it though the bottom of the alum. mount. And that is the Hillbilly link. Hope that helps. A pic would of been easier.

Thanks Drew
What does the team prefer now in place of the Hillbilly link?

Thanks.
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Old 12-17-2010, 10:00 AM   #619
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Originally Posted by AverageRacer View Post
Ive been trying to find pictures of the hillbilly link on here can someone lead me to one

thank you

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Ellis View Post
Sorry I looked for a picture and could not find one. I'm not running that link anymore. But if you want to try it you will just need some longer turnbuckles like 35mm. The link mounts to the top of the castor block like the stock one, but the link on the tower goes to the alum. part where the shock tower mounts. You just don't run the bottom screw for the shock tower. Use a pivot ball that has a screw on it and thread it though the bottom of the alum. mount. And that is the Hillbilly link. Hope that helps. A pic would of been easier.

Thanks Drew
Here you go. It's post #311 from page 8

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You can use the stock open balls ends that come with the car and the XRAY ball studs mentioned in Robbie's post. For using any of the XRAY ball cups I found it necessary to dremel about .5mm from the underside of it in order for the link action to move uninterrupted. See the attached image.


EDIT: My apologies for the size of the pic!!!
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Last edited by Fred Hubbard; 12-17-2010 at 10:10 AM.
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Old 12-17-2010, 11:04 AM   #620
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I ran a normal captured ball cup on the inside of my car and didn't have to dremel the pretty bulkheads at all.
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:31 PM   #621
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What does the team prefer now in place of the Hillbilly link?

Thanks.
Paul and I ran the L1L2's at Cleveland in the long high spot with 2mm shims. That link seems to work good everywhere.

Thanks Drew
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:58 PM   #622
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What does the team prefer now in place of the Hillbilly link?

Thanks.
So far I am loving the L1/L2 holders in the low/long position, with L1 and L2 on the opposite sides of the car from where the manual specifies them. And then I am running 2mm shims on the outside. It creates a long link with a height that is kind of half way between the low and the high if the holders were on the correct side of the car. Hope this makes sense. This is on the T3 '11.
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Old 12-17-2010, 02:03 PM   #623
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Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
So far I am loving the L1/L2 holders in the low/long position, with L1 and L2 on the opposite sides of the car from where the manual specifies them. And then I am running 2mm shims on the outside. It creates a long link with a height that is kind of half way between the low and the high if the holders were on the correct side of the car. Hope this makes sense. This is on the T3 '11.

1+
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Old 12-17-2010, 02:10 PM   #624
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So far I am loving the L1/L2 holders in the low/long position, with L1 and L2 on the opposite sides of the car from where the manual specifies them. And then I am running 2mm shims on the outside. It creates a long link with a height that is kind of half way between the low and the high if the holders were on the correct side of the car. Hope this makes sense. This is on the T3 '11.
are you running it that way both front and rear ?
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Old 12-17-2010, 02:14 PM   #625
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Paul and I ran the L1L2's at Cleveland in the long high spot with 2mm shims. That link seems to work good everywhere.

Thanks Drew
This past weekend I ran the h blocks exactly the same way and had lots of steering. haven't had a chance to try l blocks yet
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Old 12-17-2010, 02:23 PM   #626
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are you running it that way both front and rear ?
Just the front for me.
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Old 12-17-2010, 02:29 PM   #627
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Waiting for my new car! Tell them to hurry up!

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I dunno why you don't have your car yet lol
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Old 12-17-2010, 02:32 PM   #628
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This past weekend I ran the L1 and L2 links in the upper position, on a high bite carpet track. This link works well and has plenty of Steering..
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:14 PM   #629
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Guys we are hoping to start shipping the next order of T3'11's before Xmas. But with the season don't know if they will show up before, but we will try are best. The shipment should show up early next week.

Thanks Drew
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Old 12-17-2010, 08:04 PM   #630
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Any chassis plates for the T3'11 (p/n:301131) in this shipment?
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