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Old 11-30-2010, 06:26 PM   #526
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I have the stock 52's in teh back of my car and they dont bind at all. I also only use the 1 1.5mm shim on the rear mount for Toe. Not sure why yours would be different though.

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Old 11-30-2010, 06:50 PM   #527
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Only thing I can think of is to make sure the rear diff is in the up position?
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Old 11-30-2010, 06:57 PM   #528
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I have the stock 52's in teh back of my car and they dont bind at all. I also only use the 1 1.5mm shim on the rear mount for Toe. Not sure why yours would be different though.

EA
+1 I too have never experienced an issue with binding running the 52's running the kit configuration.
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Old 11-30-2010, 08:40 PM   #529
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Looks pretty good, the only difference in mine was that I used the big hole side covers, and sanded the center section so the cover could be removed with out unscrewing the gear from the center section. Good job though, told you it wasn't that tough.
Yes thanks heaps your input helped greatly.thanks
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Old 11-30-2010, 08:46 PM   #530
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[QUOTE=Besercoe;8280020]
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here is my DIY nt1 diff to me it looks a good job.I done slight mods so i could fit lighter out drive in as is very heavy with stock out drive the weight came in at 30gr with metal gears so i think that's as best you can get it without Capricorn gears.

QUOTE]


Nice, are those the 3racing outdrives?
Looks like you machined inside the outdrive to fit the bigger Xray balls, how did you do it?
Hi yes they are 3 racing and you save about 7grams by using them and to open them up I had got a mate to machine them out but you can do it with a hand drill but only open it up slowly as the alloy is soft and the drill bit will bite.
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Old 11-30-2010, 09:37 PM   #531
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Yeah I'm using the suggested shims in the rear per instructions. The diff is in the high postion. I guess I can shim it wider. I just hope I can keep my tires in the rear under the car body. Front with the same shims has about 2mm of room.

Last edited by RCknight; 12-01-2010 at 02:19 AM.
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Old 11-30-2010, 10:21 PM   #532
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haha Chris yours would be "please don't hit me in the first corner" and Andrew's would be ....... um.. ... Carpet fuzz. I like the sound of that.
This isn't a good one like Bonadezy.
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Old 12-01-2010, 02:16 AM   #533
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Yeah I'm running the suggested shims in the rear per instructions. The diff is in the high postion. I guess I can shim it wider. I just hope I can keep my tires in the rear under the car body. Front with the same shims has about 2mm of room.
can you take a picture of the diffoutdrive and the driveshaft so I/we can se how far the driveshaft goes in the diffoutdrive ?
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Old 12-01-2010, 02:18 AM   #534
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Yeah I'll take a pic and post it soon.
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Old 12-01-2010, 04:47 AM   #535
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All and all my kit went together perfect. I'm concerned about the rear cvds. They are too long and have no room for compression in the rear. Fronts seem fine. I'm running the spacers per the instructions.
I had the same problem with my T3R (diff up, 2.5 deg. camber)! Swaped to 50mm shafts and every thing works fine.
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Old 12-01-2010, 04:58 AM   #536
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I'm sure the bearings are seated in the hub so that's not an issue. I'll check to see if it has too much neg camber. lol I've not set it up on the board yet, but I measured the camber links per the instructions. I'll check again. I checked it and it's not the camber links.

I think I figured it out. The inner toe block option is shorter than the separate toe blocks. It leaves much less room for the cvds and binds up the drive train. Nice...I'll have to shim it some more, but I can't say that I'm happy. Be prepared to buy new 50mm cvds if you use the optional toe block and desire to keep the stock width. Are the T3 arms longer than the old 008? I'm trying to get an idea if my wheels will be under the body.

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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
I have the stock 52's in teh back of my car and they dont bind at all. I also only use the 1 1.5mm shim on the rear mount for Toe. Not sure why yours would be different though.

EA

Last edited by RCknight; 12-01-2010 at 07:01 AM.
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Old 12-01-2010, 05:28 AM   #537
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Originally Posted by P.I.M.P View Post
here is my DIY nt1 diff to me it looks a good job.I done slight mods so i could fit lighter out drive in as is very heavy with stock out drive the weight came in at 30gr with metal gears so i think that's as best you can get it without Capricorn gears.

Attachment 673818

Attachment 673819

Attachment 673831

Attachment 673832
did the same thing with you... yours look better though...

you may also want to try putting the pulley on the other side of the diff and use a good epoxy to fix it. way so much better in looks factor. i'll try to grab a snapshot of what i mean by "way looks better"
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Old 12-01-2010, 05:41 AM   #538
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I'd be interested in knowing what epoxy you found suitable to bond the xray plastic.
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:50 AM   #539
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not sure what epoxy was used on the diff i saw built that way...
on my build, was thinking of devcon... dunno if it will hold.. will see
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Old 12-01-2010, 12:13 PM   #540
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did the same thing with you... yours look better though...

you may also want to try putting the pulley on the other side of the diff and use a good epoxy to fix it. way so much better in looks factor. i'll try to grab a snapshot of what i mean by "way looks better"
If you put the gear on the other side it has nothing to key off of to center the gear. When your making the gear to attach to the center section, as your removing material, the gear will actually key into the bumps from the internal gears of the center section, to the point that it self centers and has very little run out. On the other side you could also have issues with lining up with the idler pulley.
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