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Old 11-22-2010, 08:43 PM   #466
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I heard people having problems with this, but I have been running the 52mm ECS's with 2.25 shims for width and have had no problems. I run the 50mm CVD's in the rear.

Thanks Drew
What about with the standard 1.5 shims at the front, can we still use the 52mm cvd? Thanks!
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:10 PM   #467
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What about with the standard 1.5 shims at the front, can we still use the 52mm cvd? Thanks!
Not sure on that. I have been running the 2.25mm shims with the gear diff. I used to 1.5mm with the spool and that worked fine but have not ran that narrow with the gear diff.

Let us know what you find out.

Thanks Drew
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:14 PM   #468
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Here's my custom made gear diff my dad made from the NT1 that I use in my T3.


Bro tell your Dad nice job one of the best I have seen. Would he make me one? Let me know and I will send the parts. Or atleast have him share how he did it.

Thanks Drew
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:47 PM   #469
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For realz. I really like the gear diffs but I refuse to run a leaking gear diff. I'd expect the NT1 modified gear diff doesn't leak? A post with pics and a parts run down (especially if it doesn't look hack like some i have seen) might tip the scales and get me walking the bins at RCA this week. Drew if you get the PN and assembly info and such pm me and I will get two of everything for you and me and send you one NICELY done.

AWD
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:50 PM   #470
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Originally Posted by Drew Ellis View Post
Bro tell your Dad nice job one of the best I have seen. Would he make me one? Let me know and I will send the parts. Or atleast have him share how he did it.

Thanks Drew
I'm with Drew on this one-If your dad wants to sell these I'll gladly pay for one!
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Old 11-23-2010, 01:54 AM   #471
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Originally Posted by Drew Ellis View Post
Not sure on that. I have been running the 2.25mm shims with the gear diff. I used to 1.5mm with the spool and that worked fine but have not ran that narrow with the gear diff.

Let us know what you find out.

Thanks Drew
I see, thanks for the 411 and the tip. Just my opinion, but to skimp on such top priority item is not a good business decision as a lot of people will look elsewhere such the ta05 v2 R and such. Buying turnbuckles will eat into a lot of the saving right off the bat & defeat the budget purpose. The notching trick is a good "tie-over" option for those who buy the kit and then realize whats missing.
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Old 11-23-2010, 08:19 AM   #472
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I see, thanks for the 411 and the tip. Just my opinion, but to skimp on such top priority item is not a good business decision as a lot of people will look elsewhere such the ta05 v2 R and such. Buying turnbuckles will eat into a lot of the saving right off the bat & defeat the budget purpose. The notching trick is a good "tie-over" option for those who buy the kit and then realize whats missing.
No problem, I understand. But they had to save some money somewhere in the kit. The price is alot cheaper then the T3 or T3'11. If you search around turnbuckles are not to much meaning they don't have to be Xray's. I think you can find a set for the car for under $20. I know alot of people that have this car and are really happy they got.

Thanks Drew
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Old 11-23-2010, 08:48 AM   #473
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Looking at picture of T3R I do not see any squared sections on the turn buckle where a wrench can be used....is this realy the case and if so how are you supposed to make camber and toe adjustments on the set up board??
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No problem, I understand. But they had to save some money somewhere in the kit. The price is alot cheaper then the T3 or T3'11. If you search around turnbuckles are not to much meaning they don't have to be Xray's. I think you can find a set for the car for under $20. I know alot of people that have this car and are really happy they got.

Thanks Drew

Good point Drew. We have 4 T3R’s and we really like them. They are very forgiving and have held up very well. We have added turnbuckles as we went and the price is still way under most kits that have less out of the box performance than the T3R. Plus, there is so much good information for the T3 line that as a person gets quicker you can add bits and pieces to the T3R to pick up its performance in certain conditions. In the end it's nice to have choices.
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Old 11-23-2010, 08:59 AM   #474
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Giddy like a school girl waiting for my T3 '11 to arrive this week.
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Old 11-23-2010, 10:19 AM   #475
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Here's my custom made gear diff my dad made from the NT1 that I use in my T3.

Whats the big ring for beside the belt pulley? Just curious.
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Old 11-23-2010, 04:52 PM   #476
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Whats the big ring for beside the belt pulley? Just curious.
Not sure. The diff is completely stock besides the mod of getting th pulley on the diff.
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Old 11-23-2010, 10:00 PM   #477
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I'm thinking the big ring to the right is what is left of the NT1 teeth after machining them?

Mini, would you show us what the gear side looks like with the cover off showing how/where the electric pulley was machined?
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Old 11-24-2010, 10:42 AM   #478
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Here is the first link showing an nt1 diff in a t3
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7121865-post1660.html

we have all been doing this for awhile, with all the xray hop-ups it is one gram less than a spec-r

the t3 diff pulley gets the center cut out just leaving holes for the screws.

mini-mods dad has a sick way of using one of the pulleys for alittle more accuracy
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Old 11-24-2010, 08:02 PM   #479
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Drew,

I got a couple of sets of 30 8306 ALU shock absorber set, short.

The documentation says the piston hole sizes are 1.1, 1.2 and 1.3 mm. In reality, the numbers on the pistons are 1 and 0, 1 and 1, 1 and 2.

I am assuming that 1 and 0 is 1.1, 1 and 1 is 1.2 and 1 and 2 is 1.3. Please verify is this is correct.
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Last edited by PDX-Spike; 11-24-2010 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 11-24-2010, 09:03 PM   #480
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Drew

Whats the latest on CVD length? Still 50's all round or just in the rear on the 2011 t3?
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