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Old 11-05-2010, 09:24 PM   #376
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Originally Posted by kobiwan View Post
Can someone please make a tutorial on how to bleed the shocks! Everytime I release the bottom cap and do what the instructions say I get air in the shock.
Are you pulling the shaft back down after you compress it? If you are that may how you're sucking air back into the shock body.
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Old 11-05-2010, 11:19 PM   #377
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Are you pulling the shaft back down after you compress it? If you are that may how you're sucking air back into the shock body.
Yes I am, becuase that's what it says to do in the manual. It says to very slowly push it in and then pull it back out. It even says to do it like 10 times to get 75% rebound, 15 times to get 50% rebound, etc. I give up.
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Old 11-05-2010, 11:37 PM   #378
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Originally Posted by kobiwan View Post
Yes I am, becuase that's what it says to do in the manual. It says to very slowly push it in and then pull it back out. It even says to do it like 10 times to get 75% rebound, 15 times to get 50% rebound, etc. I give up.
what i found to work very well is, hold the shock upside down with the bottom cap loose for a good five minutes. tighten it and check rebound if you want less rebound loosen the bottom cap again and hold shock uopside down till desired rebound is acheived. takes a bit of time but works well
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Old 11-05-2010, 11:47 PM   #379
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ok i hope this helps the way i have always done it is

step 1-fill shock with oil
step 2-move shock shaft up and down to move the air around
step 3-use shock pump to remove any air
step 4-put the shock membrane on top of the shock
step 5-put the shock eyelet on top of the membrane
step 6-put the orange shock nut over the eyelet and tighten it all the way down
step 7-loosen the bottom nut and pull it down so you can see the o-ring
step 8-push the shaft in about 80% and tighten the bottom nut at the same time

the further you push the shaft in the less rebound you will have so if you dont push the shaft in you will have 100% rebound and if you push it in all the way you will have 0% rebound

always tighten the bottom nut when the shaft is pushed in never pull it out and then tighten it

give that a try and lmk how it works out
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Old 11-06-2010, 05:18 AM   #380
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Originally Posted by kobiwan View Post
Yes I am, becuase that's what it says to do in the manual. It says to very slowly push it in and then pull it back out. It even says to do it like 10 times to get 75% rebound, 15 times to get 50% rebound, etc. I give up.
This is the way me and most other Xray team drivers build their shocks:
The method is showed with a different brand of shocks (Capricorn, perfect shocks might want to try them) but the principle still applies on the Xray shocks.

First, never touch the bottom cap again! It will only cause air to enter the shock and makes building the shocks a pain.

Step 1, Shockabsorbers.



The quality of the shocks is amazing, standard they come with TiNi coated shafts and a mono O-ring design. The pistons and shaft guide are machined nylon which makes for the smoothest shock I ever build.
All shocks were perfectly matched in bound and rebound on the first try.



Bleeding the shocks with a vacuum pump, this makes for a perfect air-free shock.



Meanwhile I engraved the shockcaps, this makes it easy to have the same shock on the same corner of the car every time.



Now the important bit:

I used the following method while building the shocks:

1. Put a 4mm spacer between the damperhousing and the balljoint, this sets the amount of rebound. A small spacer will mean less rebound, a big spacer more rebound.
2. While pushing the shockshaft into the housing( with the spacer in place) place the membrane on top of the shockhousing. All excess oil will come out of the shock.
Make sure the membrane sits flush with the shock housing, if you have the old style membranes (ditch them and get the new style asap) and they have been sitting in the shock this can be hard. The Xray membranes expand a lot, I uses to replace them about every month or for every big event. It gives the car more overall traction.
3. Screw the cap on top of the housing.
4. Check if both front and both rear dampers are equal, this is very important in terms of car balance.



I've build the dampers with 550cst in the front and 450cst in the rear, used 3 holed pistons all around.

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Old 11-06-2010, 08:04 AM   #381
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Where can I get one of those shock pumps? Speedtech RC and Ampdraw is the only places I saw them and they are out of stock.
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Old 11-06-2010, 08:39 AM   #382
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http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=3546

Heres a Tamiya pump from nexus... $$$

but you can look and see if you want to spend your money on that or not.

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Old 11-06-2010, 09:09 AM   #383
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Something a little cheaper. I made an insert for the jar out of plexiglass to hold the shocks. Works great.

http://www.goodmans.net/item.asp?n=V...883450&sc=FRGL

You could always try the local Bed, Bath, and Beyond, which is where I got mine. The pump part is about $10. I got a jar that is round off the web somewhere. Search for Vacu Vin Coffee Saver.
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Old 11-06-2010, 06:37 PM   #384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
This is the way me and most other Xray team drivers build their shocks:
The method is showed with a different brand of shocks (Capricorn, perfect shocks might want to try them) but the principle still applies on the Xray shocks.

First, never touch the bottom cap again! It will only cause air to enter the shock and makes building the shocks a pain.

Step 1, Shockabsorbers.



The quality of the shocks is amazing, standard they come with TiNi coated shafts and a mono O-ring design. The pistons and shaft guide are machined nylon which makes for the smoothest shock I ever build.
All shocks were perfectly matched in bound and rebound on the first try.



Bleeding the shocks with a vacuum pump, this makes for a perfect air-free shock.



Meanwhile I engraved the shockcaps, this makes it easy to have the same shock on the same corner of the car every time.



Now the important bit:

I used the following method while building the shocks:

1. Put a 4mm spacer between the damperhousing and the balljoint, this sets the amount of rebound. A small spacer will mean less rebound, a big spacer more rebound.
2. While pushing the shockshaft into the housing( with the spacer in place) place the membrane on top of the shockhousing. All excess oil will come out of the shock.
Make sure the membrane sits flush with the shock housing, if you have the old style membranes (ditch them and get the new style asap) and they have been sitting in the shock this can be hard. The Xray membranes expand a lot, I uses to replace them about every month or for every big event. It gives the car more overall traction.
3. Screw the cap on top of the housing.
4. Check if both front and both rear dampers are equal, this is very important in terms of car balance.



I've build the dampers with 550cst in the front and 450cst in the rear, used 3 holed pistons all around.

Sorry DS but I dont know what Factory guys you have been around, but Ralph Burch, Paul Lemiuex and myself do not build are shocks like that. Are way is much easier and it seems to work pretty well.

Guys I will have a video of Paul Lemiuex building shock on www.prolevelrc.com within the next 2 weeks.

Thanks Drew
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Old 11-06-2010, 07:20 PM   #385
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Originally Posted by Drew Ellis View Post
Sorry DS but I dont know what Factory guys you have been around, but Ralph Burch, Paul Lemiuex and myself do not build are shocks like that. Are way is much easier and it seems to work pretty well.

Guys I will have a video of Paul Lemiuex building shock on www.prolevelrc.com within the next 2 weeks.

Thanks Drew
Well ok, methods can differ.
The method I described is pretty much the same method Jilles Groskamp (Former Xray driver ) showed in the Redrc video. It allows me to build a perfect set of shocks within 15 minutes, something which is impossible with the way Xray does it in the manual.

But I'm interested to see a method which is much easier, drivers have been promised a video for quite some time now.
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Old 11-06-2010, 08:30 PM   #386
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Yes I know it has been taken awhile, but we are wanting to make sure the video is done really well. I will have it up soon in about 2 weeks it will probley be about 20 mins long and Paul will go over everything in the build.

Thanks Drew
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Old 11-07-2010, 06:58 AM   #387
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Drew any word on the next shipment and some up coming option goodies for the T3'11?
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Old 11-07-2010, 07:05 AM   #388
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Drew any word on the next shipment and some up coming option goodies for the T3'11?
The shipment should be showing up in the middle to end of November, they are getting it ready now should be shipping soon. We have been testing some new option's should no more soon.

Thanks Drew
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Old 11-07-2010, 04:40 PM   #389
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Sweet, glad to read this. Can you tell us what options Xray has in mind? I hope with all the people opting for other shocks Xray will have some new designed ones soon. I only buy Xray options since I know Xray thoroughly tests them and the materials are top notch.


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The shipment should be showing up in the middle to end of November, they are getting it ready now should be shipping soon. We have been testing some new option's should no more soon.

Thanks Drew
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Old 11-07-2010, 04:54 PM   #390
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I really hope it's closer to the middle, as in 7-10 days from now. I have to go overseas for work again soon, and would love to bring a new car along to build during the boring times.
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