YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

No, the spool question was off-topic about onroad in general not specific to the GTP2e.

CB's answer is incorrect. Try the center diff for onroad and see how much your transmission bogs compared to one that doesn't. Even on the nitro version for the GTP2 there isn't a diff. Instead it has a 2speed. Center diffs are not necessary unless your onroad track has puddles of water or patches of ice.

wingstreet

I'm Kind of new to this on road thing, but I have had my GTP2e for about a month. I am running the mmm 2250kv combo with a 20t pinion. With the spool in place, the rear end is all over the place upon take off. I have to really really ease onto the throttle or the thing will slide all over the place and eventually spin out. Now with the center diff in place i can be very aggressive with the throttle. No spin outs and much much more fun to drive. For me, the center diff is a must. Hope this helps.

FangsCPO

I would drop your pinion to a 16T or 17T. 20T seems a little to fast. Fast is good but how much control do you have? How big is your spur gear?? Just my .02.

kcunamay

iTrader: (20)

YEP. I experienced the same thing. The spool is a lot of fun for bashing around and drifting about. instant power. For racing though, it is so much easier to go faster with the center diff mounted.

The statement of the nitro GTP version has a 2 speed mounted or a spool is true. However, I honestly beilieve the tq that most .21-.28 nitro engines CANNOT RIVAL the TQ of these brushless motors on 4s juice. I've got both Nitro and Electric GT8 cars and can tell you the difference is substantial.

If you're bashing around...the 20tooth should be fine as long as your temps are in check. Might be unuseable at the track though as you'll run out of room on the straight and have to jump on the binders. Speaking of Corona and Surf City of course.

wingstreet

I do have different pinion sizes in my parts bin from 14t thru 20t. You are right 20t is awsome for bashing. If I make it to corona then I'll tone it down a little.
I was out at the artesia transit center this past weekend with the nitro 1/10 and 1/8 onroad guys and wow! they are super fast. That being said, if i knew how to drive that track my car would have been able to keep up with them i think. Anyway GT8 is way more asthetically pleasing to me, way less tinkering way more driving fun .

snellemin

iTrader: (16)

I wanted the pillow ball setup in the rear, but didn't want to spend an arm and a leg for it. So Ebay to the resque and bought OFNA Rear Pivot Ball Kit, MP-6 Part# 31297 for 14 bucks plus shipping. I had to shimmy it a bit, but now I have a nice 13" wheelbase. The thing is on rails and zooms like mad.




Here's the bigger motor. It's scary to drive with this beast.

Justpassedu

iTrader: (118)

How much kv is that motor? Also how many cells are you running ?

snellemin

iTrader: (16)

The Bigmaxx is a 1800W 2300kv motor and about the same length as Castles 1520 motor. It runs on 4s Acepow. The other Pletty that I blew up was a 1000W 3000kv motor.
The Bigmaxx has too much torque and I'm actually considering using the current limiter. 1000W or like most 1512 motors are perfect for the GTB.

Motors that I have used in either GTP's are:

Hacker C50 13L 1874KV and 6L 4060kv motor (As smooth as sensored and perfect amount of torque w/quick spoolup)

Plettenberg Maxx 3000kv and Bigmaxx 2300kv motor(4 pole motors that spool up like a 2 pole)

Castle 2200KV and 1520 1600kv motors(both are torque monsters, but slower spool up)

Tekno Neu 1512 1400kv motor(Way smoother than Castle motors)

Tekno Neu 1515 2700kv motor(Fast smooth torque monster)

Tekin 4030 1400kv motor(Even smoother than the Tekno Neu)

Lehner XL Basic 3100kv motor(Tough little motor, but an XXL would've been better)

Hacker C50 Maxx 14.4 3600kv motor(Same can size as the C50-L motors, but less torque due to shorter rotor magnet)

LRP 2500kv 1/8 motor.(13mm rotor just doesn't cut it. Worked well in lighter vehicles. Power is equivelant to a C40-L Hacker motor)


ESC's that I've run in the GTP's:

Losi 1/8 ESC(Ran 6s A123 with Tekno neu 1515 2700kv motor. Blew up after firmware update)
Lutach LT-10s 120A(10s A123 is overkill with a 1400kv Tekno neu)
Tekin RX8 with cap bank(favorite)


If anyone who wants to run a Hacker motor, the B50-L or C50-L are best. Difference between them is motor can size and rotor structure.
B50 has sintered rotor, 36mm can diameter
C50 has segmented rotor, 44mm can diameter

snrscion

iTrader: (21)

Wow that is some good info thanks.

Justpassedu

iTrader: (118)

Def. Some good info. I was going to use my 2200kv motor off of my hb d8t conversion but I had a buyer and they wouldn't take it without the motor so that's gone , I now have a neu 1800kv 1.5y and a neu 2650kv , i'll most likely be going with my 2650 and a fan on 4s bc I want a higher top end for when I run in the street racing. I will only be using 4s for the time being , many 5s once in a blue even though the 2650 doesn't take 5s well , won't be run much and if it ever is temps will be monitored. Thanks

Vision

iTrader: (41)

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Vision

iTrader: (41)

Great info. Yeah I have both the MMM and Tekin and the Tekin is much smoother in power delivery. My favorite by far. Where is a good place to get these caps ?. Thanks.

toptek

I have a question.
how do the speeds compare to a nitro version?
wat is the accelaration, topspeed and laptimes comparred to nitro?

Cmjomaha

iTrader: (7)

This is my first On-Road car and i am pretty excited about it. I have a Hyper 9 center diff, this one, and was wondering if it would work in my GTP2e?

I will be putting in a Castle 2200kv/MMM combo, because I have an extra one right now. I was also looking at this servo, since all my servos I have now are mostly Hitec 7955tg which are great servos but I think I little slow for this application.

So, will the servo and center diff work? Opinions welcome.

Thanks

snellemin

iTrader: (16)

I build my own cap banks. But you can get them at offshoreelectrics.com