simplechamp

iTrader: (73)

That's what I was going to suggest too, heavier weight diff oil.

And as you said, there are a lot of variables: different tracks, different setups, different driving styles. A center diff may work great for one person but perform poor for another. It's all a matter of personal preference and what works best for you.

snellemin

iTrader: (16)

I prefer the spool/solid diff in my GTP's and center diffs in my offroads. I use both plastic and metal spurs. The plastic spur is lighter and it's what is used when I drag raced the bugger. Cheap pinions last with the plastic spurs and the spur last too as I don't go offroad with my GTP.


Rattle can paint job on mine.

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=snellemin;8801105]I prefer the spool/solid diff in my GTP's and center diffs in my offroads. I use both plastic and metal spurs. The plastic spur is lighter and it's what is used when I drag raced the bugger. Cheap pinions last with the plastic spurs and the spur last too as I don't go offroad with my GTP.


Sweet Tribal graphics. Blacks my fav but too hard for me to see on black asphalt. That PF body looks like a Audi in the front. I like em.
Do you think the stock diff rings will hold up for road racing ~2000kv 4S lipo? Assuming properly shimmed. I'm aware of that hardened steel ring OFNA upgrade. Is there a hardened pinion(13t) upgrade? I had to update both ring and pinion in my Kyosho nitro GT8.

snellemin

iTrader: (16)

Don't know much about your diffs as mine are the 44/14 version and not the buggy 43/13. The diffs in your should hold up. It's a different story when doing more powerful setups.

Jspeed

Here's some food for thought for ya'll.



Jojo E's & Nelly Cruz's latest Ipanema Blackhawk Warrior creation.

simplechamp

iTrader: (73)

I like the adjustable downforce wing. Is that a stock feature or custom? Either way, easy to do.

Jspeed

The one that comes with the body is smaller, some have won races without it too. Love that paint work.

snellemin

iTrader: (16)

That adjustable wing is a nice add on, but that painjob is tight mang. That silver pin striping is sharp.

FangsCPO

That is a badass paintjob. Did you need to mod the front foam bumper for the body to fit correctly?? I've thinking about a new lid. I'm on my second protoform and ready for a different look.

FangsCPO

What's your ride height?? It's looks a little high or is that just to show off the badass looking new lid.

snellemin

iTrader: (16)

Chassis is 5/8" off the ground for now on this GTP. My other one is a tad lower. It might look higher due to the wheel wells.

Jspeed

We offer matching CNC cut 1" foam bumpers for Warriors, designed to protect your body & chassis during impacts. They also help to reduce air from getting under the lid and help produce increased steering at hi-speeds. They’re very nice too, when ordering please specify for DM1S or IGT cars. Thanks.

FangsCPO

I'm sorry, order from where??

Jspeed

Actually, my fault.

Where to buy

snellemin

iTrader: (16)

So in the little bit of free time that I have for myself, I got busy with the goal of measuring timing boost/cheat/ turbo with low kv sensored motors. Results were great. But alas my datalogger has a hiccup with it's software and I can't show proof of my datalogs.

Test was done on a FLM Rustler, Tekin 1400kv buggy motor, MMpro, 58/25 mod.8 gearing and 4s Lipo.

4s Regular 10 degrees timing was a bit more than 22000 rpm.
4s CHEAT 30 degrees timing was a bit more than 33000 rpm.
Cheat 50 degrees timing on 2s was a bit more than 33000rpm. This was pulling 70+ amps and got hot really fast. The MMPro was crying at this point.

So it looks like I went from 1400kv to 2000kv with 30 degrees timing. Pretty cool.

Motor temps and ESC weren't high at all.


But this is a great feature to mess with your 1/8 onroad monsters. Now you can set the rpm when to accelerate and how quick just like the 1/10 folks. With the lower kv motor you gain some additional torque for coming out of corners. And you can pull it off with a cheaper 1/10 ESC.