Midnight

iTrader: (87)

Dang I added 2 sticks of weight and I'm still at 1139. My scales must be off.

Midnight

iTrader: (87)

Were r u guys putting ur weight?

morgoth

I have a question for the guys who did the servo mod. How does it compare to adding expo on your steering channel?
I have about 15% expo on my steering channel to smooth the steering a little. I wanted to shim my link straight, but unfortunately it's hitting the topdeck, even with a 1mm shim.

I don't feel like drilling my chassis for the servomod but if it's really worth it...

samnelso

iTrader: (1)

Yes, I went back to the original '11 orange center link. I'll have to measure the drag link (link from the servo saver to the steering pivot) and probably won't be able to do that until tomorrow. But, for now I'm estimating that there is about 10mm of turnbuckle exposed between the ball ends.

samnelso

iTrader: (1)

.

samnelso

iTrader: (1)

Granted, I got a new chassis, rotated the servo, and did the steering mod all at once, but I can tell you that my steering feel is much much better. I was running ~-15% expo (less aggressive - which is +15% on some radios) depending on the day and now i'm -60%. The feel between the steering mod and expo are different. Expo can help smooth out you inputs. The steering mod (along with the other changes I've made) makes the car have a more direct steering feel. Before it felt like there was a buffer between me and the car, where the car did not necessarily respond precisely to my inputs. Now the car predictably does what my inputs tell it to do. It's a very cause and effect feel now.

morgoth

Thanks for your input. Did it also decrease your laptimes? Or was is just a better feeling?
I think I drive the car pretty well now except my car had too much steering mid corner (rear comes out in mid corner) and my car is a bit nervous. It responds very quickly to input. I think it overresponds. I like a lot of steering on my cars, but the rear should be more planted.

Sith Lord

iTrader: (21)

Thanks for that. So I won't need to buy a different length turnbuckle or new ball ends?

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

I did the servo mod and the only thing I went into my parts bin for was a ball with a longer threaded shaft as the ball on the servo was a little short.

Potoczak

iTrader: (120)

Are you weighing the car with body on race ready?? Normally you want to put some weights down the middle under the belt. Also you can also put weight on the outsides of the chassis if you need to balance the car left to right.

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

That's with a body, battery, etc.? Ready to go? If so, yes, your scale must be off.

Where I put the weight depends on where I need it for balance. Right now the weight I have added is on the electronics side. If your car is already balanced you can put it down the middle under the belt, as suggested above.

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

Here is a question for those of you with stock steering setups and modified (2012 style) setups.

How are your steering endpoints set? For example, I messed around with my servo position, subtrim, endpoints, etc... but I cannot get an even throw side to side. I have to have a huge endpoint spred. Somewhere along the lines of 20 points.

I am not the only one at our track to notice this. A very experienced racer test drove my car as he is looking to get an xray and he gave it back to me saying that the car doesn't steer the same right to left.

We put it up on the setup blocks as I though maybe something had shifted but both right and left said 32 degrees on my rack.

Even with the subtrim at zero, arm straight up and down, I still had about 15 points difference from right to left. This tells me, in my limited experience that it requires a longer travel one way to get the same end point.

This seems very odd to me as the rack is centered (verified) and we are going to the same degrees on the steering gauge both ways.

Where is this difference coming from? The 2012 suffers this as well. Do those of yu with stock setups have this trouble?

We looked at a fellow racers car and he has about 60 points of subtrim to get his arm straight up and down and the his endpoints are off about 30 points right to left as well. (80 one way and 110 the other)

bucketboy

Go back to basics, remove the servo saver and set the radio trim to centre and 100% throw, put the servo saver back on with the ball as near to 12 O'clock as poss, then set the l/r trim so that the ball is spot on. Measure your track rods and get them both exactly the same length. Connect the steering link and adjust that so that the wheels look straight. Steer right on the radio, adjust the servo end point so the servo just starts to hum, knock off 1%. Do the same on the left, both end points should be within a few%.

Put the car on the track and push the car forwards (no pinion on motor) with full steering right and note turning circle, do the same left, both should be about the same.

If they are not start to look for a machanical reason.
rear toe equal l/r.
front steering equal l/r
chamber and castor equal l/r
friction in l/r drive train, CVJ's, bearings, rubbing wheel.

With servo set top dead centre the should be equal steering and speed of steering, trims and end points are used to fine tune not to overcome car set up irregularities.

Once the car is equal in the "push test" connect the motor and try again, at slow speed it should give the same result, at high speed any noticable differences will be down to tweak, tyres or unequal balance somewhere.

Both my T3's are spot on.

Bb

Skiddins

Take some photo's of the steering system of your car so we can see what you've done.

I have changed my T3'11 to the '12 setup and the steering is only a few percentage points different in either direction.

Skiddins

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

1. Set the trim at zero
2. Position the servo saver on the servo as close to a 90 degree angle WITH THE STEERING LINK as you can get
3. Adjust the subtrim until the angle IS 90 deg from servo horn to steering link
4. Adjust the link length so that the steering is centered
5. Set EPAs

I know the '12 manual says to put the servo horn at 90 degrees to the servo but it's wrong, set it this way and you won't have a drastic difference between left and right