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Xray T3 2011

Old 02-15-2011, 07:16 AM
  #1471  
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Originally Posted by Jasezace
I have a 2010 Xray T3. The bottom deck has had a very hard time and has been scratched to the point the heads on the screws are worn....yes ive given it a hard time!

I am wondering if a T3 2011 deck WILL FIT my 2010 T3?
No, it won't, as T3'11 uses dual-post steering, and T3'10 uses single-post steering.
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Old 02-15-2011, 01:15 PM
  #1472  
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Originally Posted by Jasezace
I have a 2010 Xray T3. The bottom deck has had a very hard time and has been scratched to the point the heads on the screws are worn....yes ive given it a hard time!

I am wondering if a T3 2011 deck WILL FIT my 2010 T3?

Like Nilks said it will not fit due the the steering change from 2010 to 2011, but if you are considering spending $100 or so on a chassis, it is well worth spending another $150 on top of that to convert the car to the 2011 spec. Having owned both cars you will not regret the decision to spend the $$.
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:28 PM
  #1473  
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Originally Posted by Bonadona
Like Nilks said it will not fit due the the steering change from 2010 to 2011, but if you are considering spending $100 or so on a chassis, it is well worth spending another $150 on top of that to convert the car to the 2011 spec. Having owned both cars you will not regret the decision to spend the $$.
Ok, now what is involved changing the car to 2011 specs? I thought that if the bottom deck of an 011 doesnt fit an 010 that I wouldnt be able to upgrade to 011 specs. Maybe I should consider biting the bullett and buying a new one!
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:37 PM
  #1474  
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There's a conversion kit that includes a new main chassis, top deck and the dual steering parts.

I'm looking for the part number, I know I saw it somewhere in the last day or two...
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:39 PM
  #1475  
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Originally Posted by Jasezace
Ok, now what is involved changing the car to 2011 specs? I thought that if the bottom deck of an 011 doesnt fit an 010 that I wouldnt be able to upgrade to 011 specs. Maybe I should consider biting the bullett and buying a new one!
The XRAY up grade kit will give you ALL the parts to convert a 2010 to a 2011

A picture worth a thousand key strokes?

T3 2010 to T3 2011 Conversion

Then you will be ready for the 2012 conversion kit
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:40 PM
  #1476  
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Originally Posted by HarryLeach
There's a conversion kit that includes a new main chassis, top deck and the dual steering parts.

I'm looking for the part number, I know I saw it somewhere in the last day or two...
XRA 300945 T3 2010 to T3 2011 Conversion
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:49 PM
  #1477  
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Originally Posted by rpoage
XRA 300945 T3 2010 to T3 2011 Conversion
That's the one, still can't find the post I saw that in a few days ago
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Old 02-15-2011, 07:00 PM
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Just received my T3 2011s.
While reading the manual, XRay recommends to sand the chassis.
Is this a must? If so, what grit paper should I use, 500, 1000?
How much should I do? Is it OK if I just add some CA glue and not sand?
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Old 02-15-2011, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by LowBoost
Just received my T3 2011s.
While reading the manual, XRay recommends to sand the chassis.
Is this a must? If so, what grit paper should I use, 500, 1000?
How much should I do? Is it OK if I just add some CA glue and not sand?

I usually start with 400 grit just to make the process faster and then I use 1000 grit to smooth out the edges. I will then wipe everything down and take a black sharpie marker and go over all the edges I sanded. Lastly I will apply CA with a Q-tip making a smooth clean finnish. I do this to all the carbon pieces and the only edge I really sand to a rounded finnish is the bottom deck. The sharpie is only for looks and gives a deep black piano finnish. The CA is recomended b/c it helps the chassis from de-laminating or chipping in case of a serious crash. Just what I do. Hope this helps.
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Old 02-15-2011, 07:17 PM
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Thanks! So.. I should not sand to a rounded finish? Just lightly?
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Old 02-15-2011, 07:40 PM
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I’m still a bit new to this, so I’m going to try to explain this with a few words, but let the pictures due the talking…

I’m having an issue with my ’11. The pin that holds the “dog-bone” to the “spindle” on the front of the car keeps moving, which causes things to “bind up” and the car loses its steering. See below…



In other words, #3 moves to the point that things get bound up…..



Hopefully the arrow shows this has moved and is binding up….



This is after I removed it from the car and shows how far this pin has actually moved. I’m not sure what to do with this as it has happened 3-4 times now (twice this last Sunday). I’m using thread locker (Losi) and am tightening these tiny little set-screws pretty darn tight.

Has anyone else had this issue? How did you fix it? I was considering “notching” a small area of the pin so that it couldn’t move once the set screw was in place…..

Help?
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Old 02-15-2011, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by LowBoost
Thanks! So.. I should not sand to a rounded finish? Just lightly?
These are the best instructions on prepping a chassis I have found. From the CRC site (thanks Frank)
Advanced Carbon Fiber Chassis Preparation

Don't use cheap CA, use the good stuff for mounting tires.
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Old 02-15-2011, 07:50 PM
  #1483  
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Originally Posted by jeb4
This is after I removed it from the car and shows how far this pin has actually moved. I’m not sure what to do with this as it has happened 3-4 times now (twice this last Sunday). I’m using thread locker (Losi) and am tightening these tiny little set-screws pretty darn tight.

Has anyone else had this issue? How did you fix it? I was considering “notching” a small area of the pin so that it couldn’t move once the set screw was in place…..

Help?
Either notch the pins, or pick up these 2x10mm pins with flat spots.

I've seen this on quite a few cars guys built without flat spotting the pins. I ground a notch on mine when I built the car and haven't had any issues.
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Old 02-15-2011, 07:54 PM
  #1484  
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Originally Posted by jeb4
Has anyone else had this issue? How did you fix it? I was considering “notching” a small area of the pin so that it couldn’t move once the set screw was in place…..Help?
You are on to it but XRAY beat you to it. Match one of these with the size given in your instructions and they will go a long way to fixing the problem.

XRA 305390

XRA 305391

XRA 305392

I also use a short piece of shrink wrap on my ECS's to keep grease in, dirt out and the pins in place if they move. Note: be very careful how tight you make the set screw as it will bind the CVD or ECS.

Last edited by rpoage; 02-15-2011 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 02-15-2011, 07:55 PM
  #1485  
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Originally Posted by jeb4
I’m still a bit new to this, so I’m going to try to explain this with a few words, but let the pictures due the talking…

I’m having an issue with my ’11. The pin that holds the “dog-bone” to the “spindle” on the front of the car keeps moving, which causes things to “bind up” and the car loses its steering. See below…



In other words, #3 moves to the point that things get bound up…..



Hopefully the arrow shows this has moved and is binding up….



This is after I removed it from the car and shows how far this pin has actually moved. I’m not sure what to do with this as it has happened 3-4 times now (twice this last Sunday). I’m using thread locker (Losi) and am tightening these tiny little set-screws pretty darn tight.

Has anyone else had this issue? How did you fix it? I was considering “notching” a small area of the pin so that it couldn’t move once the set screw was in place…..

Help?
You can purchase drive shaft covers. Some guys have discussed this about 4 or 5 pages back for more info.
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