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Old 01-30-2011, 10:22 PM   #1291
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Not much talk about the T3 '11. New car seems good, but I'm wishing I had back the older T3 steering and post.
Why?
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Old 01-31-2011, 12:11 AM   #1292
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was running a little lower on the ride height in the rear, 5.2 mm as indicated on the setup sheet. didnt check the overall droop but running the setup 6 (F) and 5 (R) down stop. i will try the few suggestions of roll center and ride height and see which ones work for this track. thank you.
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Old 01-31-2011, 01:24 AM   #1293
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I have put 1mm holes in the tops and shock building is easy now. In fact they are better to build than my Photon was.
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:01 AM   #1294
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Why?
I don't see any benefit to the new steering system on tight carpet tracks. Front seems too stiff with the stiffeners or it has too much flex without them. Old steering system felt more aggressive, had a good built in servo saver, and I liked the single post. Also ackerman was easier to adjust. The steering also pushed the servo back 7mm further.

Last edited by RCknight; 01-31-2011 at 02:20 AM.
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:16 AM   #1295
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Weren't you the guy that was all about the dual steering post gotta have it just like the 416/417 bandwagon leader??
When Xray first talked about it they also said it was going to be an option to use both. I'm sure the dual steering great on large flowing tracks, but I thought it was going to be an option. I like choice. In theory the two post design can cause upper chassis teak. Maybe that's why you don't see a two post design on other TC designs. Over all the car feels good. It's design preference I guess. What I hate are the shocks, servo saver, and battery holder. They could all be improved. You can count on me to get this thread rockin again. lol
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Old 01-31-2011, 08:48 AM   #1296
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The upper caps that allow camber link mounts will be coming toward the middle of the month. Alloy shocks are already available for those that insist on them. Not 100% sure of any other parts coming but we may see some other things on Weds as thats the debut of the Numberg toy fair and Xray will have some stuff there including the new 8th scale On-road car and Off road car.

I ran a Box stock T3'11 at the Snowbirds and it was THE best car I have ever driven. If not for some bad luck in the mains Im sure the results would have been better as my TQ time was set when the track wasnt fast and held all through qualifying. I used all my luck in that one run! LOL Always next race though and looking forward to it already!

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Old 01-31-2011, 10:48 AM   #1297
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Here is my method of shock building for less than 100% rebound. First it is essential to drill the shock caps. I use a 1mm drill bit and drill on the small indent on the outside of the cap on the flat spot, and aim for the hole to come out in the center of the inside of the cap. I have always used the low profile bladders in my shocks(tamiya bladders before xray released theres) and would recommend this for best results, regardless of rebound required. First fill your shocks so they are about 2mm below the top of the body with oil, then slowly pump 3 or 4 times to get any air bubbles from under the piston moving. The let rest untill all the bubbles are out or use a shock pump. Top up the shock for any lost oil or air that has escaped so that it is again 2mm below the top of the shockbody. Then leaving the shock shaft at the bottom of the body(fully extended) i place the bladder on and kinda fold it back very slightly and push it down so that any excess oil can escape, then roll it on and make sure the bladder flange is touching the shock body all the way round. Next screw the cap on making sure not to disturb the bladder. At this point you will have full rebound. I then loosen the shock cap till i feel the back pressure from the bladder release and push the shock shaft all the way in. Then while holding the shock shaft in, i tighten the cap. Oil should come from the small bleed screw on the side of the shock cap, if it doesnt then you need to loosen the shock cap a little more. I repeat this last step untill the shock has desired rebound. This method takes a little time but as shocks are such an important part of the cars handling i think it pays off the take your time here. Hope that helps
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Old 01-31-2011, 03:41 PM   #1298
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Originally Posted by RCknight View Post
When Xray first talked about it they also said it was going to be an option to use both. I'm sure the dual steering great on large flowing tracks, but I thought it was going to be an option. I like choice. In theory the two post design can cause upper chassis teak. Maybe that's why you don't see a two post design on other TC designs. Over all the car feels good. It's design preference I guess. What I hate are the shocks, servo saver, and battery holder. They could all be improved. You can count on me to get this thread rockin again. lol
I use the dual on a tight short track and the biggest thing that helped was going to the EPIC steering hubs that allow for some extra steering throw, as soon as I went to those the car started to really work well on the tight sections. The 'Birds' looked pretty tight and EA's car looked pretty good on there as well.

If you really wanted to, and I have thought about this as well, is you could easily convert a '11 back to the other steering by adding the hole in the lower chassis and then using all the '10 upper deck parts and steering assembly. I think it would be a nice option but I don't think Xray will do it, and when idoes it get to be just too many options.

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Old 01-31-2011, 04:42 PM   #1299
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Do you really need more throw? my '11 goes well beyond the point of acceptable chatter from the CVs
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Old 01-31-2011, 05:28 PM   #1300
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Do you have a link to for the Epic steering hubs? Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I use the dual on a tight short track and the biggest thing that helped was going to the EPIC steering hubs that allow for some extra steering throw, as soon as I went to those the car started to really work well on the tight sections. The 'Birds' looked pretty tight and EA's car looked pretty good on there as well.

If you really wanted to, and I have thought about this as well, is you could easily convert a '11 back to the other steering by adding the hole in the lower chassis and then using all the '10 upper deck parts and steering assembly. I think it would be a nice option but I don't think Xray will do it, and when idoes it get to be just too many options.



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Old 01-31-2011, 05:36 PM   #1301
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Thanks John but I've drilled the hole just like you mentioned. I can get them close to 25%, but I can not react 0% rebound no matter what I do. I tried everything. I'm sure it can be done, but it's not worth my time. I race VTA so I don't care that much, but it should be easier to do. It would be more than ok with me if Xray would make a new design an upgrade. I just don't want Tamiya shocks on my car.


Quote:
Originally Posted by John_S View Post
Here is my method of shock building for less than 100% rebound. First it is essential to drill the shock caps. I use a 1mm drill bit and drill on the small indent on the outside of the cap on the flat spot, and aim for the hole to come out in the center of the inside of the cap. I have always used the low profile bladders in my shocks(tamiya bladders before xray released theres) and would recommend this for best results, regardless of rebound required. First fill your shocks so they are about 2mm below the top of the body with oil, then slowly pump 3 or 4 times to get any air bubbles from under the piston moving. The let rest untill all the bubbles are out or use a shock pump. Top up the shock for any lost oil or air that has escaped so that it is again 2mm below the top of the shockbody. Then leaving the shock shaft at the bottom of the body(fully extended) i place the bladder on and kinda fold it back very slightly and push it down so that any excess oil can escape, then roll it on and make sure the bladder flange is touching the shock body all the way round. Next screw the cap on making sure not to disturb the bladder. At this point you will have full rebound. I then loosen the shock cap till i feel the back pressure from the bladder release and push the shock shaft all the way in. Then while holding the shock shaft in, i tighten the cap. Oil should come from the small bleed screw on the side of the shock cap, if it doesnt then you need to loosen the shock cap a little more. I repeat this last step untill the shock has desired rebound. This method takes a little time but as shocks are such an important part of the cars handling i think it pays off the take your time here. Hope that helps
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Old 01-31-2011, 05:52 PM   #1302
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Originally Posted by RCknight View Post
Maybe that's why you don't see a two post design on other TC designs.
Except perhaps the HB Cyclone and the Kyosho TF-5 and the Tamiya 416-7 and the Yokomo MR-4TC etc.

Basically they almost all have that system, Xray has just taken longer to get to it.

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Old 01-31-2011, 07:21 PM   #1303
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The upper caps that allow camber link mounts will be coming toward the middle of the month. Alloy shocks are already available for those that insist on them. Not 100% sure of any other parts coming but we may see some other things on Weds as thats the debut of the Numberg toy fair and Xray will have some stuff there including the new 8th scale On-road car and Off road car.

I ran a Box stock T3'11 at the Snowbirds and it was THE best car I have ever driven. If not for some bad luck in the mains Im sure the results would have been better as my TQ time was set when the track wasnt fast and held all through qualifying. I used all my luck in that one run! LOL Always next race though and looking forward to it already!

EA
Dude that was a killer run by the way, Big Dog and I were watching it close. Sorry to see you have tough luck, but nothing wrong with putting multiple cars in the A. Congrats on a great week of racing. My fellow locals Rocky B. and Kevin H. also made us very proud.
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Old 01-31-2011, 08:14 PM   #1304
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
The upper caps that allow camber link mounts will be coming toward the middle of the month. Alloy shocks are already available for those that insist on them. Not 100% sure of any other parts coming but we may see some other things on Weds as thats the debut of the Numberg toy fair and Xray will have some stuff there including the new 8th scale On-road car and Off road car.

I ran a Box stock T3'11 at the Snowbirds and it was THE best car I have ever driven. If not for some bad luck in the mains Im sure the results would have been better as my TQ time was set when the track wasnt fast and held all through qualifying. I used all my luck in that one run! LOL Always next race though and looking forward to it already!

EA

jeeesh EA... after hearing about how bad this car is I'd hate to have seen you at the birds with a good car....

I havn't had any issues with shocks... I don't see a reason to go get the alum shocks. The plastic ones work perfect. I can't speak for the difference between the duel steering to the old style as I just joined xray a couple months ago. But I guess I could as My girlfriend has a old T3 for her VTA car.

Every car has it's issues but is it really a car issue when alot of people have 0 issues with with the car??? I don't know what to tell you guys that have the car but i build my shocks on the xray just like I did last year on my schumacher...

Good job this past weekend EA and the rest of the xray team

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Old 01-31-2011, 10:26 PM   #1305
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Do you really need more throw? my '11 goes well beyond the point of acceptable chatter from the CVs
I'm using ECS, and the track is very tight, not your normal but smaller than most. I didn't think it was a issue either but when it equates to .15 seconds better lap times, it sort of makes the difference here. And no chatter yet.

The car was unbelievably easy to drive it just needed that extra kick thru the corners, and I tried multiple changes to get more, but the steering hub change worked the best. Overall the difference was going from 74% to 83% increase in overall throw. (DSM radio)
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