HarryLeach

A large kimbrough servo saver should work.

That said, I haven't had any issues with the stock servo saver at all. My servo is strong enough that it barely complains if the servo saver is over-ridden, and the saver has held up to some serious stress testing.

I did find that it doesn't work real smoothly if the 3 spring pieces are installed dry though. I coated each one with a bit of graphite grease that was included in the kit, and it's been good to go.

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

No problems with the servo saver or steering rack at all.

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

Xray parts have been restocked, especially suspension pieces

johnny55

iTrader: (8)

NICE!

ByteStream

iTrader: (2)

They do not fit more tightly (I have them). If you have slop with the standards you will have slop with these. They do "feel" more solid.

I broke one of the standard ones and to replace it at a cost of $10-$11, so I decided to try these. The only concern I have is if they will act like the old one-peice suspension holder where the screw could rip through the chassis, time will tell.

Add the following to my wishlist for the T3'12/T4

1. Adjustable Lipo Holders to allow for a snug fit.
2. A top deck that does not interfere with motors w/o a bevel at full range.
3. Shocks that are a joy to build.
4. Placement of the servo where you would never have to cut off an ear.
5. Holes around the chassis to mount Xray's own weights.

kyle133

I put a piece of lead weight down the centerline of the chassis to bring the car up to weight. this also helped push my battery agaisnt the battery holders. Then the tape holds the battery from moving back and forth. i was really hoping xray would addopt the lipo holders from the exotek chassis. oh well i still love my car

S.A.W

+1 for that.

I hate the Xray shocks I have the alloys too. Tonight I've spent hours trying to get 25% rebound on the plastics and the alloy ones. I've tried the older bladders the newer bladders with and without foam insert's holding the shocks one way up then the other, drilled caps and standard caps you name it I've tried it with zero success. Then people say oh it's easy this is how I do then them blah blah there not easy to set at all every Xray post regarding shocks is normally about setting rebound, you never see anyone with problems with the Tamiya, Schumacher, HPi etc shocks.

This is my only gripe with the Xray oh and it's tight on the space for electrics but christ these bloody shocks do my head in !

matt prigmore

try bleeding the the shocks upside down by pushing the shock shaft very very slowly up and down this usally take me about 20 minute for each shock to get zero rebound, this is with no shock bladder foam and 1mm vent hole in shock cap.

S.A.W

Is that with the plastic ones ?

20mins per shock ! Tamiya one's you just put the shaft in where you want rebound and tighten the top cap, job done. Might get myself some.

darrenoakley

Hate to agree but the shock are a nightmare. I have done exactly the same as you and cant get the 25% rebound. Or i get 1 to 25% then can get the rest the same. shock slime,no foam, Alu, Plastic,From top or bottom,
It must be me, as friend seems to be able to get it. Am i looking to get it too perfect maybe. I need to watch someone build them and see there perception of 25% i think.

kyle133

what xray needs to do is post the shock building video they said were going to

RobS

Kyle, you got a 3'11??

locked

iTrader: (1)

Apparently. The real question is: Will it go forward or backwards?

RobS

Pretty sure he has a Tekin now... Shouldn't have that issue anymore...

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

If you have drilled the caps then forget about the bleeding from the bottom thing and just build them up like tamiyas. You need a shock pump because there are plenty of places where air can hide in the xray shocks.

Watch out when drilling the caps though, I had 2 bladders tear from them rubbing on the lip on the underside of the shock cap. I think next time I use them I will use the foams