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Xray T3 2011

Old 01-05-2011, 08:49 AM
  #1216  
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Originally Posted by JamesReilly View Post
You would want to use the aluminum ones in the rear if you have them they are lighter therefore giving you more traction and less rotating mass.
There is not a durability issues using the aluminum in the rear only if you use them up front.
If you use the 50mm vs the 52mm the car will roll less on that end and possible take away some traction, however it will square up more coming off the
corner and if your car is over rotating this could help.

-James
Thanks for the feedback Reily. Might be the fix I need I'm finding my setup is making the rear squirley on our track.
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Old 01-06-2011, 10:11 AM
  #1217  
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I'm an old time racer coming back. I would like some information about this car. I have a tc5 and am thinking about getting the X-ray. My old car needs weights in the batt to keep my car balanced. Do I still have to use weights with the x-ray and lipos? Thanks in advance
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Old 01-06-2011, 10:23 AM
  #1218  
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Originally Posted by johnny55 View Post
I'm an old time racer coming back. I would like some information about this car. I have a tc5 and am thinking about getting the X-ray. My old car needs weights in the batt to keep my car balanced. Do I still have to use weights with the x-ray and lipos? Thanks in advance
The car balances very well without weights depending on your electronics and batteries. However, depending upon your local track rules weight limits might dictate that you have to add weight to the car to make the minimum. For instance, in Florida we are using the ROAR rules which have a 1420g minimum weight and you do have to add weights to the car to reach the minimum (better to be under than over!) but they aren't so much necessary to balance the car left-right.
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Old 01-06-2011, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by johnny55 View Post
I'm an old time racer coming back. I would like some information about this car. I have a tc5 and am thinking about getting the X-ray. My old car needs weights in the batt to keep my car balanced. Do I still have to use weights with the x-ray and lipos? Thanks in advance
Honestly, you probably will need weights, but maybe for different reasons. Out of the box, with my electronics the Xray T3'11 was perfectly balanced for me right to left, however it came in at around 60g under the 1400g minimum weight limit used at most big races. So I needed to add that amount of weight to the car. At that point it was a tuneing aide.

Alot depends on the weight of your electronics. For example, take lipos .. the Thunder Power 2s 40C is around 262g while the 65C is at around 309g there is a difference of 47g. Same thing for servos, standard size vs. low-profile is probably another 10g difference.

Having the ability to shift the weight around the car to balance your particular electronics is an advantage, if your car is balanced use that weight to help tune your setup.
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Old 01-06-2011, 11:56 AM
  #1220  
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Originally Posted by ByteStream View Post
Honestly, you probably will need weights, but maybe for different reasons. Out of the box, with my electronics the Xray T3'11 was perfectly balanced for me right to left, however it came in at around 60g under the 1400g minimum weight limit used at most big races. So I needed to add that amount of weight to the car. At that point it was a tuneing aide.

Alot depends on the weight of your electronics. For example, take lipos .. the Thunder Power 2s 40C is around 262g while the 65C is at around 309g there is a difference of 47g. Same thing for servos, standard size vs. low-profile is probably another 10g difference.

Having the ability to shift the weight around the car to balance your particular electronics is an advantage, if your car is balanced use that weight to help tune your setup.
Thanks for the reply fellas. I just wanted to know about balance, and Ill get the track info about wight requirements. I appreciate the feedback. I'm looking for every reason NOT to get this car but I's been calling my name lately. I like my TC5 but this car looks so fun and promising.
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Old 01-07-2011, 05:41 AM
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Hi,

who's had to cut their servo lug off to get their electrics mounted ? I'm using the KO 409 rx and the small GM75 speedo but it still won't fit unless I cut the servo lug which I don't want to do or mount the rx on the servo which I also don't want to do will the servo hold ok with one lug mounted and some carpet tape ?

Thanks.
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by S.A.W View Post
Hi,

who's had to cut their servo lug off to get their electrics mounted ? I'm using the KO 409 rx and the small GM75 speedo but it still won't fit unless I cut the servo lug which I don't want to do or mount the rx on the servo which I also don't want to do will the servo hold ok with one lug mounted and some carpet tape ?

Thanks.
I did it, but I didn't "have" to. I wanted to mount my receiver flat on the chassis so I cut it off and I have ample room now. Looks much nicer.
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Old 01-07-2011, 09:14 AM
  #1223  
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I didn't cut the ear off of my servo and I've got plenty of room for everything using a Spektrum S6040 servo, SR3520 RX and Tekin RS Pro. The only modification I made was to slot the two rear servo mount holes.

I've read that the carpet tape trick works though.
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Old 01-07-2011, 09:27 AM
  #1224  
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Originally Posted by S.A.W View Post
Hi,

who's had to cut their servo lug off to get their electrics mounted ? I'm using the KO 409 rx and the small GM75 speedo but it still won't fit unless I cut the servo lug which I don't want to do or mount the rx on the servo which I also don't want to do will the servo hold ok with one lug mounted and some carpet tape ?

Thanks.
What size spur are you using?

I have Ko 408s, gm120 and am using the wider servo holes and still have 5-10mm worth of space between the motor and speedo....
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Old 01-07-2011, 10:43 AM
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Default Final Drive help

I am going to run the "non boosted" 17.5 class since it seems to be the most popular right now where I'm at. I have all the 64 pitch stuff but can't seem to find a combo that fits to get down to around 3.5-3.7 final drive. Am I to assume the only way to do this is to get some 48 pitch stuff? What pinion/spur combo fits good with the minimal motor adjustment? Thanks in advance for the help everyone.
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Old 01-07-2011, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Green Machine! View Post
I am going to run the "non boosted" 17.5 class since it seems to be the most popular right now where I'm at. I have all the 64 pitch stuff but can't seem to find a combo that fits to get down to around 3.5-3.7 final drive. Am I to assume the only way to do this is to get some 48 pitch stuff? What pinion/spur combo fits good with the minimal motor adjustment? Thanks in advance for the help everyone.
I can hit 3.65 with 96 spur and a 50T pinion in 64pitch.
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Old 01-07-2011, 11:12 AM
  #1227  
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oh. ok cool. I only have a 44t pinion but that's easy enough to get. So it fit well and meshed good?
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Old 01-07-2011, 12:24 PM
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^^ yep, theres lots of room to go down in pinion size and a bit to go up.
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Old 01-07-2011, 12:38 PM
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I wonder if I can get away with a 100 spur and then just change the pinion from a 53 down to a 32. That way I only have to change the pinions when I go from boost to non boost. That way I don't have to take the top plate off all the time am I lazy or what!
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Old 01-07-2011, 01:17 PM
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never hurts to try.

I tried 106 with 50, but it would not mesh because I was out of room.
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