Xray T3 2011
#1201
#1202

Will the cap from this pack fit the Alu shocks ? or do I still need to drill mine.
New composite shock bodys with the pre drilled cap XR308332 - COMPOSITE SHOCK PARTS - REBOUND HOLE - SHORT.
New composite shock bodys with the pre drilled cap XR308332 - COMPOSITE SHOCK PARTS - REBOUND HOLE - SHORT.
#1203

hi all,
i am in the midst of putting together my brand new T3 2011 and have a question. a little back ground, i am going to run a 96 tooth pinion and 43 tooth spur (both 64 pitch) as our local track is small. i was test fitting the motor with mounted pinion to the spur and noted that it was snagging on the top deck. can i use add a 2 mm shim on the motor to space it out so that it does not snag on the top deck? or is there another recommendation? i am running a 17.5 T tekin.
thanks,
rshair
i am in the midst of putting together my brand new T3 2011 and have a question. a little back ground, i am going to run a 96 tooth pinion and 43 tooth spur (both 64 pitch) as our local track is small. i was test fitting the motor with mounted pinion to the spur and noted that it was snagging on the top deck. can i use add a 2 mm shim on the motor to space it out so that it does not snag on the top deck? or is there another recommendation? i am running a 17.5 T tekin.
thanks,
rshair
#1204

96T spur and 43T pinion...
#1205

hi all,
i am in the midst of putting together my brand new T3 2011 and have a question. a little back ground, i am going to run a 96 tooth pinion and 43 tooth spur (both 64 pitch) as our local track is small. i was test fitting the motor with mounted pinion to the spur and noted that it was snagging on the top deck. can i use add a 2 mm shim on the motor to space it out so that it does not snag on the top deck? or is there another recommendation? i am running a 17.5 T tekin.
thanks,
rshair
i am in the midst of putting together my brand new T3 2011 and have a question. a little back ground, i am going to run a 96 tooth pinion and 43 tooth spur (both 64 pitch) as our local track is small. i was test fitting the motor with mounted pinion to the spur and noted that it was snagging on the top deck. can i use add a 2 mm shim on the motor to space it out so that it does not snag on the top deck? or is there another recommendation? i am running a 17.5 T tekin.
thanks,
rshair
-Korey
#1206

Korey - thanks, saw that. i think the same would work if i went up a few tooth sizes on the pinion and spur. a little reluctant to cut the top deck, would spacing the motor out change the balance of the car significantly or will there be any other issues because the motor will not sit flushed against the motor mount but rather spaced out on 2 mm spacers?
thanks.
thanks.
#1207

I would trim the deck than space the motor out any day. 2mm can throw the balance off pretty good considering the motor is pretty hefty. Plus its just shimmed with basic 5-7mm OD spacers right? That puts major stress concentrations on the motor mount, so it will be much easier to bend than the motor being flat up against it. Try and play with gearing, and if that still doesn't help just trim the deck a bit. It wont take very much 
-Korey

-Korey
#1208

Korey - thanks for the super fast reply. understood, the extra shimming will put stress points on the motor plate, much like a pinching effect i assume. cant wait to take the T3 out on the asphalt, this is my first xray

#1209
#1211

With some motors (like the Duo3) there are cutouts on the front of the can that perfectly accommodate the top deck when the motor is rotated to the correct position. Such that you can move the motor very far back without having to trim the top deck, as the top deck will slide into the cutout on the motor.
I will post a photo later.
I will post a photo later.
#1212

Just got this car. I highly recommend it.
Any use 50mm spring steel drive shafts in the rear; bs the 50mm aluminum shafts? If so, is the shaft significantly lighter than the aluminum ones or same weight? Is there a durability issue with the aluminums?
Any use 50mm spring steel drive shafts in the rear; bs the 50mm aluminum shafts? If so, is the shaft significantly lighter than the aluminum ones or same weight? Is there a durability issue with the aluminums?
#1213

With the D3 I think you have to trim just ever so slightly right on the curve of the outer edge of the top deck or the top deck will not lay flat. It will go on but it will be under stress--- tweak.
Not sure about other motor cans but I noticed this when I went to the D3's.
You don't even need to use a dremmel you can just use a small curved file.
If you are talking about the pinion touching the inside edge of the top deck --just try turning the pinion around so the set screw is toward the motor. That will give several MM clearance.
Hope this is what you were talking about.
Later,
Darrald
Not sure about other motor cans but I noticed this when I went to the D3's.
You don't even need to use a dremmel you can just use a small curved file.
If you are talking about the pinion touching the inside edge of the top deck --just try turning the pinion around so the set screw is toward the motor. That will give several MM clearance.
Hope this is what you were talking about.
Later,
Darrald
#1214

With the D3 I think you have to trim just ever so slightly right on the curve of the outer edge of the top deck or the top deck will not lay flat. It will go on but it will be under stress--- tweak.
Not sure about other motor cans but I noticed this when I went to the D3's.
You don't even need to use a dremmel you can just use a small curved file.
If you are talking about the pinion touching the inside edge of the top deck --just try turning the pinion around so the set screw is toward the motor. That will give several MM clearance.
Hope this is what you were talking about.
Later,
Darrald
Not sure about other motor cans but I noticed this when I went to the D3's.
You don't even need to use a dremmel you can just use a small curved file.
If you are talking about the pinion touching the inside edge of the top deck --just try turning the pinion around so the set screw is toward the motor. That will give several MM clearance.
Hope this is what you were talking about.
Later,
Darrald
#1215

You would want to use the aluminum ones in the rear if you have them they are lighter therefore giving you more traction and less rotating mass.
There is not a durability issues using the aluminum in the rear only if you use them up front.
If you use the 50mm vs the 52mm the car will roll less on that end and possible take away some traction, however it will square up more coming off the
corner and if your car is over rotating this could help.
-James