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Old 01-03-2011, 01:44 PM   #1201
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Can that diff be used with the 52mm driveshafts ?
use 50mm driveshaft !
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Old 01-04-2011, 04:20 PM   #1202
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Will the cap from this pack fit the Alu shocks ? or do I still need to drill mine.
New composite shock bodys with the pre drilled cap XR308332 - COMPOSITE SHOCK PARTS - REBOUND HOLE - SHORT.
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:35 PM   #1203
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hi all,
i am in the midst of putting together my brand new T3 2011 and have a question. a little back ground, i am going to run a 96 tooth pinion and 43 tooth spur (both 64 pitch) as our local track is small. i was test fitting the motor with mounted pinion to the spur and noted that it was snagging on the top deck. can i use add a 2 mm shim on the motor to space it out so that it does not snag on the top deck? or is there another recommendation? i am running a 17.5 T tekin.
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:38 PM   #1204
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96T spur and 43T pinion...
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:46 PM   #1205
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Originally Posted by rshair View Post
hi all,
i am in the midst of putting together my brand new T3 2011 and have a question. a little back ground, i am going to run a 96 tooth pinion and 43 tooth spur (both 64 pitch) as our local track is small. i was test fitting the motor with mounted pinion to the spur and noted that it was snagging on the top deck. can i use add a 2 mm shim on the motor to space it out so that it does not snag on the top deck? or is there another recommendation? i am running a 17.5 T tekin.
thanks,
rshair
The manual actually says it's perfectly fine just to trim the top deck a tiny bit if needed. Just take a file or a rotary tool to it to take some material away. It will have a very very minimal effect on the flex of the top deck.

-Korey
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Old 01-05-2011, 12:55 AM   #1206
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Korey - thanks, saw that. i think the same would work if i went up a few tooth sizes on the pinion and spur. a little reluctant to cut the top deck, would spacing the motor out change the balance of the car significantly or will there be any other issues because the motor will not sit flushed against the motor mount but rather spaced out on 2 mm spacers?
thanks.
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Old 01-05-2011, 01:08 AM   #1207
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I would trim the deck than space the motor out any day. 2mm can throw the balance off pretty good considering the motor is pretty hefty. Plus its just shimmed with basic 5-7mm OD spacers right? That puts major stress concentrations on the motor mount, so it will be much easier to bend than the motor being flat up against it. Try and play with gearing, and if that still doesn't help just trim the deck a bit. It wont take very much

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Old 01-05-2011, 01:22 AM   #1208
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Korey - thanks for the super fast reply. understood, the extra shimming will put stress points on the motor plate, much like a pinching effect i assume. cant wait to take the T3 out on the asphalt, this is my first xray
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Old 01-05-2011, 01:23 AM   #1209
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96T spur and 43T pinion...
yes, sorry, you are right.
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Old 01-05-2011, 01:36 AM   #1210
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You got it! Always happy to help
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Old 01-05-2011, 07:06 AM   #1211
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With some motors (like the Duo3) there are cutouts on the front of the can that perfectly accommodate the top deck when the motor is rotated to the correct position. Such that you can move the motor very far back without having to trim the top deck, as the top deck will slide into the cutout on the motor.

I will post a photo later.
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Old 01-05-2011, 08:00 AM   #1212
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Just got this car. I highly recommend it.

Any use 50mm spring steel drive shafts in the rear; bs the 50mm aluminum shafts? If so, is the shaft significantly lighter than the aluminum ones or same weight? Is there a durability issue with the aluminums?
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Old 01-05-2011, 08:11 AM   #1213
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Default Trimming top deck---d3

With the D3 I think you have to trim just ever so slightly right on the curve of the outer edge of the top deck or the top deck will not lay flat. It will go on but it will be under stress--- tweak.
Not sure about other motor cans but I noticed this when I went to the D3's.
You don't even need to use a dremmel you can just use a small curved file.

If you are talking about the pinion touching the inside edge of the top deck --just try turning the pinion around so the set screw is toward the motor. That will give several MM clearance.


Hope this is what you were talking about.

Later,
Darrald
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Old 01-05-2011, 08:19 AM   #1214
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Originally Posted by drsfly View Post
With the D3 I think you have to trim just ever so slightly right on the curve of the outer edge of the top deck or the top deck will not lay flat. It will go on but it will be under stress--- tweak.
Not sure about other motor cans but I noticed this when I went to the D3's.
You don't even need to use a dremmel you can just use a small curved file.

If you are talking about the pinion touching the inside edge of the top deck --just try turning the pinion around so the set screw is toward the motor. That will give several MM clearance.


Hope this is what you were talking about.

Later,
Darrald
As I just posted above, you can rotate the can to a different mounting hole on the D3 and the vents on the front of the car will perfectly slide over the top deck, alleviating the need to trim the top deck at all.
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Old 01-05-2011, 08:20 AM   #1215
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Just got this car. I highly recommend it.

Any use 50mm spring steel drive shafts in the rear; bs the 50mm aluminum shafts? If so, is the shaft significantly lighter than the aluminum ones or same weight? Is there a durability issue with the aluminums?

You would want to use the aluminum ones in the rear if you have them they are lighter therefore giving you more traction and less rotating mass.
There is not a durability issues using the aluminum in the rear only if you use them up front.
If you use the 50mm vs the 52mm the car will roll less on that end and possible take away some traction, however it will square up more coming off the
corner and if your car is over rotating this could help.

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