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Old 12-09-2010, 02:37 PM   #1021
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Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
Has anybody successfully translated a T2'009 setup to the T3 '11? It would save me a lot of time as my '09 is dialed at my track, but I know the cars are very different.
Nope, very different setup.
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Old 12-09-2010, 07:15 PM   #1022
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Not sure why your making it so complicated. When your re-working the diff gear if you do it carefully, and flip your center section to mount the gear over the bump outs for the internal gears, it will key in with 4 notches, virtually center itself for next to no run out and drill for 4 screws to lock it in and your done.
already did that on my first build, have run the car with it for 486 laps and no issues.
but i just don't like the way it looks... hence i built it the other "complicated" way. IMO, it was not that complicated...

here's the "new build" mounted on the car:

u have to admit, that looks way more cooler...
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Xray T3 2011-imag0014.jpg   Xray T3 2011-imag0019.jpg  
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Old 12-09-2010, 08:21 PM   #1023
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Thanks to everyone that responded to my questions. I got the T3 '11 on the way with the rear uprights, T2 bumper/Parma bumper, posts and 104t main gear. I can't wait to finally see one of these cars up close.... and drive the hell out of it
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:14 AM   #1024
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what shock spring should i get for my t3 11 at low parking asphalt and medium traction track...? combination of front n rear...? i m new with t3...
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Old 12-10-2010, 02:55 AM   #1025
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what shock spring should i get for my t3 11 at low parking asphalt and medium traction track...? combination of front n rear...? i m new with t3...
Its always good to have a selection of springs because its hard to generalize with that. I would say with this car if you have front springs for 3.0-2.6 and rear springs from 2.6-2.2 you should be set for most conditions you would encounter anywhere. Also a couple option swaybars. I might start with 2.6/2.4 for low traction and go from there.
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Old 12-10-2010, 04:08 AM   #1026
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depending on your overall setup I would start with something like 450-500 front, and 350 rear. I ran 500/350 pretty much all last year with the t3 on the rug with 3 hole fixed pistons all around.
cheers for the heads up.
i have built them with 350 alround but maybe will change that now...cheers again.
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Old 12-10-2010, 05:26 AM   #1027
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The diff Paul made me is held together by 4 screws. It's done 4 meets now including 3 days at nationals and hasn't leaked or missed a beat. Way better than the Spec R or 3R diffs

http://www.rctech.net/forum/8199503-post776.html
Do you know if paul used the NT1 front diff with part number: XR335050

Thanks
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Old 12-10-2010, 05:28 AM   #1028
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Do you know if paul used the NT1 front diff with part number: XR335050

Thanks
No, the rear diff.
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:21 PM   #1029
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Is there a preferred body for the T3 '11? I have a Mazda Speed6 to try but I want to pick up a second body to compare. It will be running on a small indoor carpet track with medium traction. My current touring car (TC4) can have problems with the rear breaking loose with too much speed coming into the corners or exiting the corners with too much power. Most of the other guys at the track don't have the same problem, although they all run newer belt driven cars (mostly Tamiya, TCX and a TC5). I can still get my TC4 around the track ok, but if I try to keep up with the faster cars, I just spin out in the corners and the car feels loose on the track. On asphalt, my TC4 is completely planted and never hints at spinning out, even when running lower wind motors at much higher speeds while diving into corners and pulling full power coming out of them. Outside, I can also run a wide range of bodies (including non-race bodies) and it drives very well without any traction problems.

I will only be running the T3 indoors on the carpet track with rubber tires. We are all running Stock 17.5t (no boost/turbo but we can advance timing on the motor). Also, which tires would you reccomend?

Last edited by Funky; 12-10-2010 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 12-11-2010, 02:15 AM   #1030
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Is there a preferred body for the T3 '11? I have a Mazda Speed6 to try but I want to pick up a second body to compare. It will be running on a small indoor carpet track with medium traction. My current touring car (TC4) can have problems with the rear breaking loose with too much speed coming into the corners or exiting the corners with too much power. Most of the other guys at the track don't have the same problem, although they all run newer belt driven cars (mostly Tamiya, TCX and a TC5). I can still get my TC4 around the track ok, but if I try to keep up with the faster cars, I just spin out in the corners and the car feels loose on the track. On asphalt, my TC4 is completely planted and never hints at spinning out, even when running lower wind motors at much higher speeds while diving into corners and pulling full power coming out of them. Outside, I can also run a wide range of bodies (including non-race bodies) and it drives very well without any traction problems.

I will only be running the T3 indoors on the carpet track with rubber tires. We are all running Stock 17.5t (no boost/turbo but we can advance timing on the motor). Also, which tires would you reccomend?
im running the Mazdaspeed 6, LTC-R, and the P37. but mostly running the Speed6
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Old 12-11-2010, 11:51 AM   #1031
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I know this is the T3 2011 thread and I have a question about the T3R
These are my very first steps into TC on-road racing coming from 1/8 and 1/10 buggy.
I'm running this car on a technical indoor carpet track and the rear is breaking loose. I was wondering if making the front stiffer using option part n 302054-K - alu chassis brace - will solve this problem or make it even worse. The T3R comes without anti-roll bars, pos or neg ?

Can someone help me out on this one. Thx.
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Old 12-11-2010, 08:43 PM   #1032
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just picked up a T3 '11...

Has anyone seen this packaging



half the size of the other packaging that i've seen, comes with Authentic Certificate and Manual and everything..Compared it to another t3 11' box, everything similar except for outside packaging
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Old 12-11-2010, 08:54 PM   #1033
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im running the Mazdaspeed 6, LTC-R, and the P37. but mostly running the Speed6
Today I just ran the p37 and speed 6 back to back and the p37 is very neutral and consistant but not as fast as the speed 6 and the speed has a lot of steering I mounted the speed 6 about 5mm forward and moved the wing back and with my setup the car rotated and held the sweeper very well im sticking with the speed 6 from here out.
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:15 AM   #1034
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Originally Posted by j86 View Post
just picked up a T3 '11...

Has anyone seen this packaging



half the size of the other packaging that i've seen, comes with Authentic Certificate and Manual and everything..Compared it to another t3 11' box, everything similar except for outside packaging
That's a new box. I guess they had a lot of boxes from the T3 they needed to get rid of, so they probably just put on a 2011 sticker
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Old 12-12-2010, 01:32 PM   #1035
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Hi
Just came back from a race,had a brand new set in the front 52mm and one of the pins in it sheared.Looks as it has damaged the coupling,is this a common problem all intructions were followed.and did not hit anything just went around the corner and car stopped.
Any ideas
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