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Xray T3 2011

Old 12-08-2010, 06:11 PM
  #1006  
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Originally Posted by Funky View Post
After going back and forth a million times, I have finally decided to go ahead and try the new Xray. I have been a long time Associated customer and was going to get the TC6 (since I already have a lot of spare parts from the TC5)but I have heard way too many good things about Xray so I am going to give it a shot. I can only buy once, so I'll regret it if I don't try the T3 '11.

Unfortunately I don't know anyone that drives one and I have never even seen one outside of the internet, but hopefully I can come here for any help I may need Are there any spare parts I should order with the car? None of my LHS stock parts for this company so I'll need to get everything online. I would like to pick up a few spares if there is anything I am likely to break (I am a horrible driver ) I'll be running it indoor with a stock 17.5t setup with rubber tires on carpet.

Thanks to anyone that can give me some advice!!
I would recommend these to start with:

[PAR8053] Parma PSE XRAY T2 Ultimate Bumper
[XRA301203] Xray Impact Absorbing Front Bumper

I've had/raced the T3 for about 2 months and have not broken a part with these item equipped.
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Old 12-08-2010, 06:24 PM
  #1007  
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and buy some medium Rear uprights
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Old 12-08-2010, 06:35 PM
  #1008  
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here's my build pics of the NT1 rear gear diff case and pulley for T3:

i glued the pulley to the diff case with epoxy... drilled some notches on the diff case to have a better grip.
yet to test it if it holds well
Attached Thumbnails Xray T3 2011-imag0122.jpg   Xray T3 2011-imag0125.jpg   Xray T3 2011-imag0134.jpg   Xray T3 2011-imag0137.jpg  
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Old 12-08-2010, 06:57 PM
  #1009  
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Originally Posted by RevMaxx View Post
here's my build pics of the NT1 rear gear diff case and pulley for T3:

i glued the pulley to the diff case with epoxy... drilled some notches on the diff case to have a better grip.
yet to test it if it holds well
I know nothing about the 3 racing gear diffs, how the pulley holds on, but Iooking at yours I cannot see the pulley holding on for long if the pulley is only 'glued' on without any screws attached. Please forgive me if I'm missing out on something that I cannot see. Maybe some plastic welding might strengthen it up abit more.
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Old 12-08-2010, 07:00 PM
  #1010  
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can you put a few small screws through the pulley and going through the other side, with an indenture made with a drill? Just a suggestion.

does anyone know if the yokomo diff gear fits the t3's?
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Old 12-08-2010, 09:53 PM
  #1011  
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The diff Paul made me is held together by 4 screws. It's done 4 meets now including 3 days at nationals and hasn't leaked or missed a beat. Way better than the Spec R or 3R diffs

http://www.rctech.net/forum/8199503-post776.html
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Old 12-08-2010, 10:30 PM
  #1012  
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Originally Posted by hacker View Post
I know nothing about the 3 racing gear diffs, how the pulley holds on, but Iooking at yours I cannot see the pulley holding on for long if the pulley is only 'glued' on without any screws attached. Please forgive me if I'm missing out on something that I cannot see. Maybe some plastic welding might strengthen it up abit more.
what i did was to drill out some materials all around the diff walls where there's thicker plastic material (shown as blue in pic) as well as drilled out a few holes on the plastic wall of pulley (shown as red).



then as i attached the reworked T3 pulley, i poured in epoxy to fill out the drilled out material as well as engulf the pulley plastic with epoxy material, hoping when it dries out, the pulley has gripped and embedded itself to the diff through those cut-out portions.
haven't tested it yet, dunno if it will hold.

there are many ways to fix the pulley to diff case, imagination/innovation would be our limit.
Attached Thumbnails Xray T3 2011-gear_diff_build.jpg  
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Old 12-09-2010, 06:54 AM
  #1013  
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Originally Posted by B4james View Post
+1 on the centre stiffener post, I had the same idea when I tested the car. The top deck really does flex in the centre section, the post helped settle the car nicely.
Does anyone know if this is the correct center stiffener post that works with the T3 '11? I couldn't find one specifically listed for the T3.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Orange-2-T2009
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Old 12-09-2010, 07:45 AM
  #1014  
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Originally Posted by Funky View Post
Does anyone know if this is the correct center stiffener post that works with the T3 '11? I couldn't find one specifically listed for the T3.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Orange-2-T2009
The T3 '11 comes with posts that can be added between the steering posts and the top deck.
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:34 AM
  #1015  
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Originally Posted by Funky View Post
Does anyone know if this is the correct center stiffener post that works with the T3 '11? I couldn't find one specifically listed for the T3.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Orange-2-T2009
Yes those look like the correct ones. Someone posted elsewhere that they had tried one that bowed the top deck, so do a trial fit for no bind before you run them. I've tried all the spare ones I've had lying around and none have had a issue, so maybe this is just a fluke part.
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:38 AM
  #1016  
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Originally Posted by Funky View Post
Does anyone know if this is the correct center stiffener post that works with the T3 '11? I couldn't find one specifically listed for the T3.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Orange-2-T2009
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Yes those look like the correct ones. Someone posted elsewhere that they had tried one that bowed the top deck, so do a trial fit for no bind before you run them. I've tried all the spare ones I've had lying around and none have had a issue, so maybe this is just a fluke part.
I remember that post, but I used one from my T3 and had no issues. Not sure what was up in that guy's case tho.
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:39 AM
  #1017  
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Originally Posted by RevMaxx View Post
what i did was to drill out some materials all around the diff walls where there's thicker plastic material (shown as blue in pic) as well as drilled out a few holes on the plastic wall of pulley (shown as red).



then as i attached the reworked T3 pulley, i poured in epoxy to fill out the drilled out material as well as engulf the pulley plastic with epoxy material, hoping when it dries out, the pulley has gripped and embedded itself to the diff through those cut-out portions.
haven't tested it yet, dunno if it will hold.

there are many ways to fix the pulley to diff case, imagination/innovation would be our limit.
Not sure why your making it so complicated. When your re-working the diff gear if you do it carefully, and flip your center section to mount the gear over the bump outs for the internal gears, it will key in with 4 notches, virtually center itself for next to no run out and drill for 4 screws to lock it in and your done.
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:40 AM
  #1018  
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Originally Posted by yokemad View Post
and buy some medium Rear uprights
What issue are you having with the M rear uprights? Are they breaking or are the holes for the link egging out? If they're breaking you may want to try the H blocks. If you're having an issue with those holes, try putting a set screw in the hole you're not using. That'll stop the egging issue.
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Old 12-09-2010, 10:21 AM
  #1019  
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Has anybody successfully translated a T2'009 setup to the T3 '11? It would save me a lot of time as my '09 is dialed at my track, but I know the cars are very different.
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Old 12-09-2010, 12:34 PM
  #1020  
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Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
Has anybody successfully translated a T2'009 setup to the T3 '11? It would save me a lot of time as my '09 is dialed at my track, but I know the cars are very different.
tj why dont you try dave bowsers setup from the state race? i believe its on the xray site. it would be my starting point
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