Xray T3 2011
#1006
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)

After going back and forth a million times, I have finally decided to go ahead and try the new Xray. I have been a long time Associated customer and was going to get the TC6 (since I already have a lot of spare parts from the TC5)but I have heard way too many good things about Xray so I am going to give it a shot. I can only buy once, so I'll regret it if I don't try the T3 '11.
Unfortunately I don't know anyone that drives one and I have never even seen one outside of the internet, but hopefully I can come here for any help I may need
Are there any spare parts I should order with the car? None of my LHS stock parts for this company so I'll need to get everything online. I would like to pick up a few spares if there is anything I am likely to break (I am a horrible driver
) I'll be running it indoor with a stock 17.5t setup with rubber tires on carpet.
Thanks to anyone that can give me some advice!!
Unfortunately I don't know anyone that drives one and I have never even seen one outside of the internet, but hopefully I can come here for any help I may need


Thanks to anyone that can give me some advice!!
[PAR8053] Parma PSE XRAY T2 Ultimate Bumper
[XRA301203] Xray Impact Absorbing Front Bumper
I've had/raced the T3 for about 2 months and have not broken a part with these item equipped.
#1007

and buy some medium Rear uprights

#1008

here's my build pics of the NT1 rear gear diff case and pulley for T3:
i glued the pulley to the diff case with epoxy... drilled some notches on the diff case to have a better grip.
yet to test it if it holds well
i glued the pulley to the diff case with epoxy... drilled some notches on the diff case to have a better grip.
yet to test it if it holds well
#1009

I know nothing about the 3 racing gear diffs, how the pulley holds on, but Iooking at yours I cannot see the pulley holding on for long if the pulley is only 'glued' on without any screws attached. Please forgive me if I'm missing out on something that I cannot see. Maybe some plastic welding might strengthen it up abit more.
#1011

The diff Paul made me is held together by 4 screws. It's done 4 meets now including 3 days at nationals and hasn't leaked or missed a beat. Way better than the Spec R or 3R diffs
http://www.rctech.net/forum/8199503-post776.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/8199503-post776.html
#1012

I know nothing about the 3 racing gear diffs, how the pulley holds on, but Iooking at yours I cannot see the pulley holding on for long if the pulley is only 'glued' on without any screws attached. Please forgive me if I'm missing out on something that I cannot see. Maybe some plastic welding might strengthen it up abit more.
then as i attached the reworked T3 pulley, i poured in epoxy to fill out the drilled out material as well as engulf the pulley plastic with epoxy material, hoping when it dries out, the pulley has gripped and embedded itself to the diff through those cut-out portions.
haven't tested it yet, dunno if it will hold.
there are many ways to fix the pulley to diff case, imagination/innovation would be our limit.


#1013
Tech Adept
iTrader: (28)

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Orange-2-T2009
#1014

Does anyone know if this is the correct center stiffener post that works with the T3 '11? I couldn't find one specifically listed for the T3.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Orange-2-T2009
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Orange-2-T2009
#1015

Does anyone know if this is the correct center stiffener post that works with the T3 '11? I couldn't find one specifically listed for the T3.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Orange-2-T2009
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Orange-2-T2009
#1016

Does anyone know if this is the correct center stiffener post that works with the T3 '11? I couldn't find one specifically listed for the T3.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Orange-2-T2009
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Orange-2-T2009
Yes those look like the correct ones. Someone posted elsewhere that they had tried one that bowed the top deck, so do a trial fit for no bind before you run them. I've tried all the spare ones I've had lying around and none have had a issue, so maybe this is just a fluke part.
#1017

what i did was to drill out some materials all around the diff walls where there's thicker plastic material (shown as blue in pic) as well as drilled out a few holes on the plastic wall of pulley (shown as red).
then as i attached the reworked T3 pulley, i poured in epoxy to fill out the drilled out material as well as engulf the pulley plastic with epoxy material, hoping when it dries out, the pulley has gripped and embedded itself to the diff through those cut-out portions.
haven't tested it yet, dunno if it will hold.
there are many ways to fix the pulley to diff case, imagination/innovation would be our limit.

then as i attached the reworked T3 pulley, i poured in epoxy to fill out the drilled out material as well as engulf the pulley plastic with epoxy material, hoping when it dries out, the pulley has gripped and embedded itself to the diff through those cut-out portions.
haven't tested it yet, dunno if it will hold.
there are many ways to fix the pulley to diff case, imagination/innovation would be our limit.


#1018

What issue are you having with the M rear uprights? Are they breaking or are the holes for the link egging out? If they're breaking you may want to try the H blocks. If you're having an issue with those holes, try putting a set screw in the hole you're not using. That'll stop the egging issue.
#1020

tj why dont you try dave bowsers setup from the state race? i believe its on the xray site. it would be my starting point