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Old 12-06-2010, 10:15 PM   #991
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The Xray diff is the best but still has a few build challenges. Leaking seems to be a big issue so here is your first task. The oring is oversize and will require a section of about 4mm to be removed and then superglued back together. After that the diff is liquid tight. Next the pulley choice should be #305058, it has smaller holes where you would insert screws which gives you a little more strength. The lw out drives are very cool but are fractionally smaller in the width of the gap that the blade fits into so you either have to sand the blade down or widen the gap in the drive. I am new to XRay and have grown a lot of appreciation for the quality, so I chose to use the gears that came with it rather than aftermarket lw gears. How you build it can be done in different ways but the end result is a bulletproof diff capable of mod speeds. Good luck!

Regards
Mini's dad
I'm thinking you should post a build tutorial of the diff... or just make me one Hope to see you guys soon!

-Korey
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Old 12-06-2010, 10:20 PM   #992
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The Xray diff is the best but still has a few build challenges. Leaking seems to be a big issue so here is your first task. The oring is oversize and will require a section of about 4mm to be removed and then superglued back together. After that the diff is liquid tight. Next the pulley choice should be #305058, it has smaller holes where you would insert screws which gives you a little more strength. The lw out drives are very cool but are fractionally smaller in the width of the gap that the blade fits into so you either have to sand the blade down or widen the gap in the drive. I am new to XRay and have grown a lot of appreciation for the quality, so I chose to use the gears that came with it rather than aftermarket lw gears. How you build it can be done in different ways but the end result is a bulletproof diff capable of mod speeds. Good luck!

Regards
Mini's dad
WOW! JOE'S FIRST POST ON RCTECH...AND HE KNOWS HIS STUFF!!!
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Old 12-07-2010, 12:09 AM   #993
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That's my pit guy.
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Old 12-07-2010, 12:16 PM   #994
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I'm thinking you should post a build tutorial of the diff... or just make me one Hope to see you guys soon!

-Korey
YGPM
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Old 12-07-2010, 12:24 PM   #995
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WOW! JOE'S FIRST POST ON RCTECH...AND HE KNOWS HIS STUFF!!!
yeah, I stole the design for my tweak devise from him lol
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Old 12-07-2010, 12:36 PM   #996
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Do anyone know what those spring C numbers means in lbs? And if its possible to have T3 springs and antirolls + attachment on T1R?
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Old 12-07-2010, 01:18 PM   #997
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Do anyone know what those spring C numbers means in lbs? And if its possible to have T3 springs and antirolls + attachment on T1R?
There isn't a direct transfer for spring rates, I think the standard springs are more progressive and the black springs are more linear. If your rocking the T1R I think your going to be using different bars from what I remember from the T1FT. The T3 bars work back to the T2 for drop in. I tried looking up the spring table but couldn't find it. I will dig it up later if you need it.
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Old 12-07-2010, 03:02 PM   #998
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Do anyone know what those spring C numbers means in lbs? And if its possible to have T3 springs and antirolls + attachment on T1R?
I found this somewhere here on RCTech, not sure how accurate it is:

C2.2 = 12.5lb
C2.4 = 13.7lb
C2.6 = 14.8lb
C2.8 = 16.0lb
C3.0 = 17.1lb
C3.2 = 18.3lb
C3.4 = 19.4lb
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Old 12-07-2010, 04:00 PM   #999
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Thanks. Now I have idea.
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Old 12-07-2010, 05:13 PM   #1000
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I think the standard springs are more progressive and the black springs are more linear.
I think you'll find they are all linear
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Old 12-07-2010, 05:22 PM   #1001
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This helped me a while back when I made the transition form lbs to C ratings.

Maybe this example may help you:

C = 2.8

To convert take the C rating and multiply by 5.71(n/mm) which converts to the chart listed by M-Technic.

C=2.2 => 12.5 lb/in
C=2.4 => 13.7 lb/in
C=2.6 => 14.8 lb/in
C=2.8 => 16.0 lb/in
C=3.0 => 17.1 lb/in
C=3.2 => 18.3 lb/in
C=3.4 => 19.4 lb/in

Solve for X:
x = 2.8 (spring rate) * 5.71n/mm -- X ='s 15.988lbs converted. So a 2.8 C spring is equivalent to 15.98 lbs, or 16lbs rounded.

I really hope that helps you!
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Old 12-07-2010, 05:39 PM   #1002
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Originally Posted by A.B.R View Post
The Xray diff is the best but still has a few build challenges. Leaking seems to be a big issue so here is your first task. The oring is oversize and will require a section of about 4mm to be removed and then superglued back together. After that the diff is liquid tight. Next the pulley choice should be #305058, it has smaller holes where you would insert screws which gives you a little more strength. The lw out drives are very cool but are fractionally smaller in the width of the gap that the blade fits into so you either have to sand the blade down or widen the gap in the drive. I am new to XRay and have grown a lot of appreciation for the quality, so I chose to use the gears that came with it rather than aftermarket lw gears. How you build it can be done in different ways but the end result is a bulletproof diff capable of mod speeds. Good luck!

Regards
Mini's dad
you need to use, 305240 V2 ,the blades from the nt1 they fit perfectly, instead of the stock blades.

Also I mentioned the oring to Drew and they already knew and are looking into it
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Old 12-07-2010, 06:23 PM   #1003
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Thanks Jay....XRays product line is huge and will take some time to understand all the options. There have been various contributions from racers to make this work. My experience with the diff has been very positive and I hope you guys get to try it as well!
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Old 12-08-2010, 06:48 PM   #1004
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After going back and forth a million times, I have finally decided to go ahead and try the new Xray. I have been a long time Associated customer and was going to get the TC6 (since I already have a lot of spare parts from the TC5)but I have heard way too many good things about Xray so I am going to give it a shot. I can only buy once, so I'll regret it if I don't try the T3 '11.

Unfortunately I don't know anyone that drives one and I have never even seen one outside of the internet, but hopefully I can come here for any help I may need Are there any spare parts I should order with the car? None of my LHS stock parts for this company so I'll need to get everything online. I would like to pick up a few spares if there is anything I am likely to break (I am a horrible driver ) I'll be running it indoor with a stock 17.5t setup with rubber tires on carpet.

Thanks to anyone that can give me some advice!!
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Old 12-08-2010, 07:11 PM   #1005
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I'll be running a Tekin RS Pro/LRP X12 17.5 (no boost but we can change timing on the motor) and a Speed6 body on this track http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCHlWMou1Bw if that helps with any of the info I'll need.
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