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Old 12-05-2010, 07:33 PM   #976
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I don't think my setup will be kit, My setup is pretty different from most peoples. I run heavy front shock oil, narrow front track, stiff front bar, no rear bar. But we will see what my / the car like with the new car. I have a pretty awesome test track, I just have to get my hands on a gear diff


http://www.timezoneracing.com/timezoneII.php


Anyone know who has the spec R diff in stock?
Nice looking track, I wish ours had a roof

Kit is a really good starting point on most asphalt tracks, with the H roll centres
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Old 12-05-2010, 09:19 PM   #977
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Nice looking track, I wish ours had a roof

Kit is a really good starting point on most asphalt tracks, with the H roll centres
Its a sick track, one of the largest in the country and host to the 2011 carpetnats . I won't touch asphalt with this car till about 5 months from now lol.
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Old 12-05-2010, 09:45 PM   #978
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Originally Posted by runs_wscissors View Post
I just visited the wiring forum and saw some amazingly clean cars. How about some more posts with pictures here of the new T3 builds.

I am curious about the electronics placement and the use of balance weights. I noticed this information on the Tamiya TRF417 Specs page.

"The chassis design is focused on weight distribution and high-traction characteristics, with *the new minimum chassis weight rule in mind. *The 2012 world championship regulations state that the minimum chassis weight will be restricted to 1,350g. (1,450g in 2010). "

100g change is pretty considerable. I have no idea if this will happen at the tracks we run, I just found it interesting and was wondering how much and where people are using extra weight. Thanks in advance.
KO low profile servo, KO 409S Rx, Tekin RS, ears cut off servo, transponder on top of servo, 42g on side of servo, balanced @ 1380g with Thunder Power 5000 40C Pro Race (~300g). Bad cell phone pic:
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Old 12-05-2010, 10:01 PM   #979
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Not sure what you mean. I'm asking which servo's are narrow enough to mount between the inner holes (either full size or low-pro).
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It really depends on your RX and ESC combo, if your running a small esc like the Tekin RS Pro, and a small rx like KO, it all fits fine, if your running LRP and say spektrum etc you might have to shuffle things around a bit and stand your rx on its side.
thats not what he asked....

I was able to fit a full size airtronics between the two inner holes. the top part of the case has been replaced so I'm not sure which servo it is, I believe its a 358 or 59
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Old 12-06-2010, 12:08 AM   #980
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What parts are people using to make the xray gear diff?
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Old 12-06-2010, 01:43 AM   #981
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I just finished what I feel is a very clean NT1/T3 gear diff using:

NT1 Diff Cases (rear I believe)
SRC lightweight internals
NT1 lightweight outdrives (again rear I think)
XRay 38t diff pulley
2 mm carbon rod
Xray thin CVD blades (3 mm I think?)

I will be testing it to make sure everything works right shortly and posting pics, a parts list and construction details as soon as I feel comfortable that it works correctly and is durable. I was sick of my Spec-R diff leaking, and wasn't content with some of the methods I had seen. I wanted it to look good and be repeatable without extensive machining. All I used to make mine was my tire truer and a drill press.

HTH
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Old 12-06-2010, 02:53 AM   #982
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All I used to make mine was my tire truer ...
nice usage!, i guess they have come out with a revised axle seal....
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Old 12-06-2010, 06:40 AM   #983
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Thanks for the replies about the balance weight, much appreciated. Real data makes for useful posts.
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Old 12-06-2010, 03:16 PM   #984
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help.....
building my 11 and was wondering what shock oil to use?
will be running on a low to medium grip carpet with some technical layout. i used to run 450 cst in my 009 but was wondering if the 350 cst they supply in the kit is any good?
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Old 12-06-2010, 03:59 PM   #985
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What parts are people using to make the xray gear diff?
Before T3 topic had posted !
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Old 12-06-2010, 05:45 PM   #986
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What parts are people using to make the xray gear diff?
Talk to Mini-mod and Mini-Dad, they built a nice one!!
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Old 12-06-2010, 07:21 PM   #987
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Hi,

I have T2 2009 with 10.5 BL setup. Will I have some performance gain if I use the optional belt tensioner? Will it save my front belt from wear and tear?


Thanks
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Old 12-06-2010, 07:38 PM   #988
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help.....
building my 11 and was wondering what shock oil to use?
will be running on a low to medium grip carpet with some technical layout. i used to run 450 cst in my 009 but was wondering if the 350 cst they supply in the kit is any good?
depending on your overall setup I would start with something like 450-500 front, and 350 rear. I ran 500/350 pretty much all last year with the t3 on the rug with 3 hole fixed pistons all around.
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Old 12-06-2010, 09:39 PM   #989
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The Xray diff is the best but still has a few build challenges. Leaking seems to be a big issue so here is your first task. The oring is oversize and will require a section of about 4mm to be removed and then superglued back together. After that the diff is liquid tight. Next the pulley choice should be #305058, it has smaller holes where you would insert screws which gives you a little more strength. The lw out drives are very cool but are fractionally smaller in the width of the gap that the blade fits into so you either have to sand the blade down or widen the gap in the drive. I am new to XRay and have grown a lot of appreciation for the quality, so I chose to use the gears that came with it rather than aftermarket lw gears. How you build it can be done in different ways but the end result is a bulletproof diff capable of mod speeds. Good luck!

Regards
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Old 12-06-2010, 09:48 PM   #990
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The Xray diff is the best but still has a few build challenges. Leaking seems to be a big issue so here is your first task. The oring is oversize and will require a section of about 4mm to be removed and then superglued back together. After that the diff is liquid tight. Next the pulley choice should be #305058, it has smaller holes where you would insert screws which gives you a little more strength. The lw out drives are very cool but are fractionally smaller in the width of the gap that the blade fits into so you either have to sand the blade down or widen the gap in the drive. I am new to XRay and have grown a lot of appreciation for the quality, so I chose to use the gears that came with it rather than aftermarket lw gears. How you build it can be done in different ways but the end result is a bulletproof diff capable of mod speeds. Good luck!

Regards
Mini's dad
Hey ABR! Long time no see, Coming over from the tamiya camp eh? Good to have you Hope all is well, I will try to make it back to norcal next season to run with you guys probably in the spring to get some early asphalt testing before our great northwest allows me to.

Cheers!
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