2LikesXray T3 2011
11-20-2010, 12:35 AM
#856
Tech Adept
I posted this on the team xray forum.
If anyone is facing the same problem he can try this.
"I use a normal sized ERG-VZ on my electric cars. When I installed the new servo saver on, I found out that when i was tightening the servo screw the whole steering system was binding and when I undid it half a turn the steering linkage would free up. It wasn't long before I noticed that the plastic adapter's hole (K in my case) is too deep and it touches the servo body. So when you tighten the screw, it rubs against the servo body and binds the steering linkage. I got hold of a few 3x5 shims (unfortunately the common 3x6 don't fit) and placed them between the servo shaft and the plastic servo adapter.
So if you are facing problems with your sanwa servo (or any other servo), don't install the plastic shim that is shown on top of page 14 of the manual, (you don't need it) but instead use a few of these shims (I used 0.3mm in total) to set the proper top deck clearance and have a free moving steering linkage.
Probably this has something to do with some drivers experiencing inconsistent steering, or the car not tracking straight, with the new servo saver."
Hope this helps.
If anyone is facing the same problem he can try this.
"I use a normal sized ERG-VZ on my electric cars. When I installed the new servo saver on, I found out that when i was tightening the servo screw the whole steering system was binding and when I undid it half a turn the steering linkage would free up. It wasn't long before I noticed that the plastic adapter's hole (K in my case) is too deep and it touches the servo body. So when you tighten the screw, it rubs against the servo body and binds the steering linkage. I got hold of a few 3x5 shims (unfortunately the common 3x6 don't fit) and placed them between the servo shaft and the plastic servo adapter.
So if you are facing problems with your sanwa servo (or any other servo), don't install the plastic shim that is shown on top of page 14 of the manual, (you don't need it) but instead use a few of these shims (I used 0.3mm in total) to set the proper top deck clearance and have a free moving steering linkage.
Probably this has something to do with some drivers experiencing inconsistent steering, or the car not tracking straight, with the new servo saver."
Hope this helps.
11-20-2010, 08:27 AM
#857
Servo binding issue
In my case the ball cup was binding against the servo saver.
Why ? Because I hadn't noticed the small shim in the manual between the ball stud and the servo saver itself. When the servo moves through it's arc it was binding the ball cup nearest the servo saver.
So there is a slight chance that people are moving the servo around or making other changes when all that is needed is a small shim behind the ballstud. I know I overlooked it for a while.
Why ? Because I hadn't noticed the small shim in the manual between the ball stud and the servo saver itself. When the servo moves through it's arc it was binding the ball cup nearest the servo saver.
So there is a slight chance that people are moving the servo around or making other changes when all that is needed is a small shim behind the ballstud. I know I overlooked it for a while.
11-20-2010, 03:39 PM
#858
Can't wait to get my T3'11!
11-21-2010, 08:29 AM
#859
A few people have mentioned about, Drilling 1mm holes in the top of the shock to help with rebound.
Would someone please post a pic of that, there is so much discussion about it but no illustration.
Would someone please post a pic of that, there is so much discussion about it but no illustration.
11-21-2010, 11:39 AM
#860
Get my t3 11 soon and can't wait...
I already have a t2 009 and it's very quick and handles extremely well but i am struggling with rear grip on my t3 10, i am running a ball diff in the t2 and a gear diff in the t3.Is it all down to driving styles with diffs as i am thinking of sticking with the ball diff in the t3 11 and getting a new ball diff for the t3 10.
i have heard that trying different oils in the gear diffs can help but it seems like alot of bother when the only time i can do set up is at club and we dont run additive and have low grip carpet which is totally different to anywhere else.
Also on the t2 i run with a raised roll centre at the front but not on the t3 as i run basic carpet on both. is there a reason why the set up for carpet is so different on the 2 cars?
Never ran the t3 with a ball diff as i brought it second hand from flebay.
I already have a t2 009 and it's very quick and handles extremely well but i am struggling with rear grip on my t3 10, i am running a ball diff in the t2 and a gear diff in the t3.Is it all down to driving styles with diffs as i am thinking of sticking with the ball diff in the t3 11 and getting a new ball diff for the t3 10.
i have heard that trying different oils in the gear diffs can help but it seems like alot of bother when the only time i can do set up is at club and we dont run additive and have low grip carpet which is totally different to anywhere else.
Also on the t2 i run with a raised roll centre at the front but not on the t3 as i run basic carpet on both. is there a reason why the set up for carpet is so different on the 2 cars?
Never ran the t3 with a ball diff as i brought it second hand from flebay.
11-21-2010, 01:00 PM
#861
I posted this on the team xray forum.
If anyone is facing the same problem he can try this.
"I use a normal sized ERG-VZ on my electric cars. When I installed the new servo saver on, I found out that when i was tightening the servo screw the whole steering system was binding and when I undid it half a turn the steering linkage would free up. It wasn't long before I noticed that the plastic adapter's hole (K in my case) is too deep and it touches the servo body. So when you tighten the screw, it rubs against the servo body and binds the steering linkage. I got hold of a few 3x5 shims (unfortunately the common 3x6 don't fit) and placed them between the servo shaft and the plastic servo adapter.
So if you are facing problems with your sanwa servo (or any other servo), don't install the plastic shim that is shown on top of page 14 of the manual, (you don't need it) but instead use a few of these shims (I used 0.3mm in total) to set the proper top deck clearance and have a free moving steering linkage.
Probably this has something to do with some drivers experiencing inconsistent steering, or the car not tracking straight, with the new servo saver."
Hope this helps.
If anyone is facing the same problem he can try this.
"I use a normal sized ERG-VZ on my electric cars. When I installed the new servo saver on, I found out that when i was tightening the servo screw the whole steering system was binding and when I undid it half a turn the steering linkage would free up. It wasn't long before I noticed that the plastic adapter's hole (K in my case) is too deep and it touches the servo body. So when you tighten the screw, it rubs against the servo body and binds the steering linkage. I got hold of a few 3x5 shims (unfortunately the common 3x6 don't fit) and placed them between the servo shaft and the plastic servo adapter.
So if you are facing problems with your sanwa servo (or any other servo), don't install the plastic shim that is shown on top of page 14 of the manual, (you don't need it) but instead use a few of these shims (I used 0.3mm in total) to set the proper top deck clearance and have a free moving steering linkage.
Probably this has something to do with some drivers experiencing inconsistent steering, or the car not tracking straight, with the new servo saver."
Hope this helps.
11-21-2010, 01:01 PM
#862
no pic here, but on the top of the cap mine had a small hole that didn't go all the way thru the cap, I just drilled there at a angle so the drill bit came out in the center of the cap.
11-22-2010, 07:53 AM
#863
Tech Adept
11-22-2010, 04:33 PM
#864
anyone have any pics of there car showing the elctronics, i hear it is a tight fit . . .just wondering how good/bad it really is . . .i would be using a futaba 9551 and the 3pk reciever???
thanks
thanks
11-22-2010, 08:28 PM
#866
Question for anyone running the Spec.R Gear diff front or rear.
Does the stock 52mm drive shaft fit? or do I need to go down to 50mm? I was going to purchase the Spec.R Uni CV drive shafts, but they are listed as 50mm. Is that too short for the Gear Diff?
People that have tried it, please reply.
Does the stock 52mm drive shaft fit? or do I need to go down to 50mm? I was going to purchase the Spec.R Uni CV drive shafts, but they are listed as 50mm. Is that too short for the Gear Diff?
People that have tried it, please reply.
11-22-2010, 08:43 PM
#867
If you run the front end with 2.25mm of spacers on it like Paul and the rest of the team run then you can run the 52mm shafts with no problem. If you only use 1.5mm on the front you will have to use the 50mm shafts. You will also have to use 50mm in the rear as no one runs the rear wide enough to use the longer ones.
EA
EA
11-22-2010, 08:52 PM
#868
If you run the front end with 2.25mm of spacers on it like Paul and the rest of the team run then you can run the 52mm shafts with no problem. If you only use 1.5mm on the front you will have to use the 50mm shafts. You will also have to use 50mm in the rear as no one runs the rear wide enough to use the longer ones.
EA
EA
So would 50mm be too short for 2.25mm spacers?
11-23-2010, 01:19 PM
#870
Im looking to get one of these. When will they be available again?
