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Xray T3 2011

Old 11-16-2010, 12:21 AM
  #826  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Never had a R kit, but, I've given you what I think the answers are in red.
Thx Johnny, very helpfull.
No, the diff in the T3R kit is not pre-built.
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Old 11-16-2010, 01:38 AM
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Second shipment was arrived !
New packing had smaller !!
Attached Thumbnails Xray T3 2011-xr-300017-2.jpg  

Last edited by RC MARKET; 11-16-2010 at 05:07 AM.
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Old 11-16-2010, 01:45 AM
  #828  
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Originally Posted by Kail View Post
Yup! Thanks Johnny. Actually, I disassembled my car to do a further diagnosis of what happened. I realized I wrongly blamed the servo saver. It was not the fault of the servo saver that gave me centering issues.

What actually happened was that one of the collars for the steering knuckle actually got a little out of shape. I am guessing that probably I did a bad job during assembly of the steering knuckle when I was rushing and did not check that it was moving smoothly. Maybe there was some binding and continuously, it made the collar go out of shape and caused an even worse binding issue.

Now I am wondering how much faster I can go with the steering issues fixed but I am waiting on my new upper deck. I am inclined to still think the upper deck failure was an unfortunate one but I think we can all conclude that the upper deck near the recess area is really thin and that one really stresses the upper deck a lot when running super soft flex setting. I will be aware of that and run medium soft next time.
Just a thought, if your running on carpet. I wouldn't bother running the soft setting. Problem is you can overheat the front tires easier.
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Old 11-16-2010, 01:49 AM
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OK I managed to fix my servo saver issue by greasing the springs and all the plastic bits that touch with the carbon grease. This is worth a shot if you are having issues with it wandering and not coming back to centre. Happy days
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Old 11-16-2010, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I'm looking at my car right now, and that would be really tight for space. I guess just watch for clearance. Did you try running the stock servo saver glued? Some guys posted that they where going to try that, although it sort of defeats the purpose of a servo saver. Good luck, hope it works for you.
I glued mine, one tap against the piping was enough to break the twin steering where the servo linkage screws in.
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Old 11-16-2010, 03:10 AM
  #831  
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Originally Posted by rx7ttlm View Post
Just a thought, if your running on carpet. I wouldn't bother running the soft setting. Problem is you can overheat the front tires easier.
I am running on a low traction asphalt. Need all the traction I can have.
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Old 11-16-2010, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
OK I managed to fix my servo saver issue by greasing the springs and all the plastic bits that touch with the carbon grease. This is worth a shot if you are having issues with it wandering and not coming back to centre. Happy days
good advice
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Old 11-16-2010, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Pablo Diablo View Post
Double post.
You have a pm.
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Old 11-17-2010, 08:24 AM
  #834  
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Default Build questions

I am considering ordering a T3 2011 kit and have a few quick questions.

1) Does anyone sand and CA the chassis to prevent chipping/delamination in a crash?

2) What servos allow the use of both mounting posts? Or more specifically what dimension servo should I look for. I'm not so interested in the single post mount if I'll be getting a new servo anyway. I'd also like to get correct weight servo given the discussions on balancing.

3) Do batteries with the mini-bumps on the bottom fit the cutouts in the chassis better? I'm assuming all the flat packs are just fine it was just something I noticed in the XRAY web photos.

4) Back when I was running a T2 '007 everyone switched to aluminum knuckles and uprights since we had so much grip on carpet. Is this a common upgrade in the T3 series? I'll be on asphalt this time around so I assume I'll be fine with the kit components.

Thanks for the input. Build pictures are of great help as well, keep them coming.
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Old 11-17-2010, 08:27 AM
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The servo's all fit, the reason people are cutting the tabs off is to give more room to fit the ESC and receiver.
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Old 11-17-2010, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by runs_wscissors View Post
I am considering ordering a T3 2011 kit and have a few quick questions.

1) Does anyone sand and CA the chassis to prevent chipping/delamination in a crash?

2) What servos allow the use of both mounting posts? Or more specifically what dimension servo should I look for. I'm not so interested in the single post mount if I'll be getting a new servo anyway. I'd also like to get correct weight servo given the discussions on balancing.

3) Do batteries with the mini-bumps on the bottom fit the cutouts in the chassis better? I'm assuming all the flat packs are just fine it was just something I noticed in the XRAY web photos.

4) Back when I was running a T2 '007 everyone switched to aluminum knuckles and uprights since we had so much grip on carpet. Is this a common upgrade in the T3 series? I'll be on asphalt this time around so I assume I'll be fine with the kit components.

Thanks for the input. Build pictures are of great help as well, keep them coming.
1)no need to sand and CA the chassis but it looks great.

3)yes batteries with bumps fit nice in the cutouts of the chassis

4)no it is not a common upgrade on the T3.
almost nobody uses them. not even the team drivers
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by runs_wscissors View Post
I am considering ordering a T3 2011 kit and have a few quick questions.

1) Does anyone sand and CA the chassis to prevent chipping/delamination in a crash? Yes

2) What servos allow the use of both mounting posts? Or more specifically what dimension servo should I look for. I'm not so interested in the single post mount if I'll be getting a new servo anyway. I'd also like to get correct weight servo given the discussions on balancing. What M-tech said, its all about the space issue.

3) Do batteries with the mini-bumps on the bottom fit the cutouts in the chassis better? I'm assuming all the flat packs are just fine it was just something I noticed in the XRAY web photos. Yes

4) Back when I was running a T2 '007 everyone switched to aluminum knuckles and uprights since we had so much grip on carpet. Is this a common upgrade in the T3 series? I'll be on asphalt this time around so I assume I'll be fine with the kit components. If running aluminum parts its more for durability. I know its a tunable item, but the people I've seen with those parts where more interested in bullit proofing the car over tuning.

Thanks for the input. Build pictures are of great help as well, keep them coming.
JMO in red.
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:14 AM
  #838  
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Originally Posted by Kail View Post
I am running on a low traction asphalt. Need all the traction I can have.
Can you post your setup? Maybe there is a fixaround so you don't have to go full soft. Just a thought.
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:20 AM
  #839  
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Hi, I may be in the market for a new touring car and have a few questions about the t311.

How is everyone finding the car, any major problems, how does the car drive.
I have seen about the following items.

1. Using .1mm shims to free up the drive train, much like you do on the Tamiya 416.

2. Drilling 1mm holes in the top of the shock to help with rebound.

3. Remembering to build the servo saver up correctly, and adding the 1mm shim.


Is that the only issues apart from space that everyone is having.

Many Thanks
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Old 11-18-2010, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Jamesalex View Post
Hi, I may be in the market for a new touring car and have a few questions about the t311.

How is everyone finding the car, any major problems, how does the car drive.
I have seen about the following items.

1. Using .1mm shims to free up the drive train, much like you do on the Tamiya 416.

2. Drilling 1mm holes in the top of the shock to help with rebound.

3. Remembering to build the servo saver up correctly, and adding the 1mm shim.


Is that the only issues apart from space that everyone is having.

Many Thanks
The 3 above that you mention defiantely should be addressed during the build. Although the shock tuning really depends on what surface your running on as some still prefer to run rebound when on asphalt, but if your on rug the 0 rebound seems to be prefered. I'd skip the adjustable shock deal and go directly to the 3 hole pistons, jmo. If you get the car, you'll see why the servo build is very important, incorrect clearance will cause many issues.

The only kit issues I have heard about is some of the shock shafts are machined wrong or should I say, where not machined, ie missing grove for e-clip. Also some missing plastic nuts. Mine had neither issue and the build and quality are what is to be expected from Xray.

The car, when the proper setup is found, is easier to drive fast. I really can't explain it any different than that. I have a T3'10 with a nice setup, but I think the '11 just seems nicer, or should I say, more consistant. I almost think it has a lot to do with the narrow chassiss, as I don't seem to get as much carpet smear on the edges as on the '10. Its like as the '10 settles in, it starts to roll just enough to hit the edges and the '11 doesn't have this problem.

Hope that helps.
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