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Old 11-15-2010, 08:05 AM   #811
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You just drill a 1mm hole through the cap.
by drilling a hole in it is much easier to obtain 0% rebound.
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Old 11-15-2010, 08:09 AM   #812
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Did you end up with no rebound?
With a hole in the cap I achieved 0% rebound with ease. Just build it like a Tamiya shock
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:06 AM   #813
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Anyone tried a kimbrough servo saver on the t3'11?
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Old 11-15-2010, 12:56 PM   #814
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Just rebuilt my shocks and they build much better 2nd time around. I also drilled the vent hole in the cap and that makes a massive difference for setting the rebound
I find that after initial assembly, I'll run the shocks a couple of times just checking for squish noise, if they sound alright I'll run them a few more times and then re-do them. I think that there could be some trapped air that no matter what only comes out after using them a bit. So I would agree with you.
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Old 11-15-2010, 01:03 PM   #815
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Originally Posted by Andy Z View Post
Where do you drill the hole? Right by the eye hole?
If you look at the shock tops, there is a small indicator molded into them that is the perfect place to do the drilling.
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Last edited by Johnny Wishbone; 11-15-2010 at 01:14 PM.
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Old 11-15-2010, 01:13 PM   #816
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Originally Posted by mickrcarver View Post
I have personally seen the top deck prob you have,it seems the top deck is fragile near the spur gear,but only in the super flex mode,also he seems to have same prob with servo saver,but he does tap the wall alot lol
Just wondering if you guys had to file the top deck for motor clearence issues, and thats why the top decks are more fragile?
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Old 11-15-2010, 01:27 PM   #817
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Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
Told ya
Thanks for the tip mate

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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Did you end up with no rebound?
Yep, was easy to get even on every shock too

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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I find that after initial assembly, I'll run the shocks a couple of times just checking for squish noise, if they sound alright I'll run them a few more times and then re-do them. I think that there could be some trapped air that no matter what only comes out after using them a bit. So I would agree with you.
The orings also need to swell and then bed in and that takes a couple of days/runs. I found the first time I built them I couldn't get them air free with the shock pump, but it wasn't an issue second time around.
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Old 11-15-2010, 01:32 PM   #818
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Originally Posted by Kail View Post
Anyone tried a kimbrough servo saver on the t3'11?
I haven't tried it yet, decided to give the kit saver one more go, but I lined the two up next to each other and the key dimensions are almost identical so it should fit straight on. Some people say the kimbrough is too soft but I don't think it is any softer than the kit one, and the kimbrough's always centre properly!
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Old 11-15-2010, 03:08 PM   #819
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Hi, I'm a newbie to RC touring cars. I just bought an T3R to start with. I've a few 'beginners' questions:
1) I've read somewhere that the diff washers need to be rubbed on sandpaper to be perfectly flat (is this needed).
2) silicone oil is included in the kit and a syringe with ... diff grease or bearing oil (I just didn't open it yet).
3) do we need to oil the bearings or are they supposed to be 'factory oiled'. They feel a little 'gritty'.
4) composite front solid axle : do we just press the ring onto the ring pulley or do we use some CA-glue.

Thx for helping me out.
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Old 11-15-2010, 03:37 PM   #820
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Originally Posted by Sergel View Post
Hi, I'm a newbie to RC touring cars. I just bought an T3R to start with. I've a few 'beginners' questions:
1) I've read somewhere that the diff washers need to be rubbed on sandpaper to be perfectly flat (is this needed). Usually the diff is pre-built so no need to do anything at the moment. When the time comes you can prep the diff rings with wet/dry sandpaper.
2) silicone oil is included in the kit and a syringe with ... diff grease or bearing oil (I just didn't open it yet). The syringe is diff grease.
3) do we need to oil the bearings or are they supposed to be 'factory oiled'. They feel a little 'gritty'. They are suppose to be pre-i=oiled but I still redo mine to be safe.
4) composite front solid axle : do we just press the ring onto the ring pulley or do we use some CA-glue. The ring should snap into place, no glue is necessary.

Thx for helping me out.
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:13 PM   #821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
I haven't tried it yet, decided to give the kit saver one more go, but I lined the two up next to each other and the key dimensions are almost identical so it should fit straight on. Some people say the kimbrough is too soft but I don't think it is any softer than the kit one, and the kimbrough's always centre properly!
The only problem I can expect is the screwing on of the ball end. As the xray's servo saver is thick, it only needs to be screwed in. However, I would suspect one would need to tie a nut to the other side of the ball end to secure the ball end to the kimbrough servo saver. What will then happen is the nut might hit the upper deck. Hmm...
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:30 PM   #822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
With a hole in the cap I achieved 0% rebound with ease. Just build it like a Tamiya shock
N i c e
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Old 11-15-2010, 07:58 PM   #823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kail View Post
The only problem I can expect is the screwing on of the ball end. As the xray's servo saver is thick, it only needs to be screwed in. However, I would suspect one would need to tie a nut to the other side of the ball end to secure the ball end to the kimbrough servo saver. What will then happen is the nut might hit the upper deck. Hmm...
I'm sure you could just use one of those thin nuts and some loctite
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Old 11-15-2010, 08:50 PM   #824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kail View Post
The only problem I can expect is the screwing on of the ball end. As the xray's servo saver is thick, it only needs to be screwed in. However, I would suspect one would need to tie a nut to the other side of the ball end to secure the ball end to the kimbrough servo saver. What will then happen is the nut might hit the upper deck. Hmm...
I'm looking at my car right now, and that would be really tight for space. I guess just watch for clearance. Did you try running the stock servo saver glued? Some guys posted that they where going to try that, although it sort of defeats the purpose of a servo saver. Good luck, hope it works for you.
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Old 11-15-2010, 10:52 PM   #825
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Yup! Thanks Johnny. Actually, I disassembled my car to do a further diagnosis of what happened. I realized I wrongly blamed the servo saver. It was not the fault of the servo saver that gave me centering issues.

What actually happened was that one of the collars for the steering knuckle actually got a little out of shape. I am guessing that probably I did a bad job during assembly of the steering knuckle when I was rushing and did not check that it was moving smoothly. Maybe there was some binding and continuously, it made the collar go out of shape and caused an even worse binding issue.

Now I am wondering how much faster I can go with the steering issues fixed but I am waiting on my new upper deck. I am inclined to still think the upper deck failure was an unfortunate one but I think we can all conclude that the upper deck near the recess area is really thin and that one really stresses the upper deck a lot when running super soft flex setting. I will be aware of that and run medium soft next time.
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