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-   -   Xray T3 2011 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/435215-xray-t3-2011-a.html)

BlackedOutREVO 11-12-2010 10:45 AM


Originally Posted by Pablo Diablo (Post 8199503)
since everyone is talking about shocks and gear diffs, here are some things I have been working on.

I didn't drill out the TRF caps, I machined down the Xray tops a little. I also run TRF bladders. One thing to consider is that TRF's are longer and at ride height, are more compressed than Xray shocks. As discussed in the HB Cyclone thread, this does seem to take some grip away.

As for the diff, you just can't come close to the quality of the NT1 diffs. Spec R's don't even come close. Now that I have mine done just watch Xray release theirs and make all the time it took a waste.

I have been running my tamiya shocks that way for about 5 months now. And about a month ago I decided to try cutting my shock shaft so they were more extended and more oil over the piston. Magic number I came up with was 2mm lol. Car works lots better that way:nod:

And second, I need those outdrives you have in your nt1 diff, will you sell me a set? I hate the tiny blades you have to use in the outdrives! Also are you running all Capricorn insides in the diff? You will have a diff that's 1 or 2 grams lighter then a spec r that holds up to modified power no problem

Johnny Wishbone 11-12-2010 10:49 AM


Originally Posted by j86 (Post 8200624)
Could somebody be kind enough to name a list of some of the MOST COMMON/Neccesary upgrade/replacement parts I should pick up when buying a T3 2011?

Thanks

If your running 13.5 or less I'd option for the aluminum outdrives for the spool, and then get some replacement blades. Or the Flying Fox outdrives either or, but thats the only weak/wear part I've had on the car.

Johnny Wishbone 11-12-2010 10:52 AM


Originally Posted by skypilot (Post 8200683)
Last night I built my first ever set of xray shocks. When does all this "pain" I keep hearing about start?

Exactly, but perhaps some shock oil in the eye will do. LOL

Fred Hubbard 11-12-2010 10:52 AM


Originally Posted by skypilot (Post 8200683)
Last night I built my first ever set of xray shocks. When does all this "pain" I keep hearing about start?

LOL

skypilot 11-12-2010 11:40 AM

:)

CraigM 11-12-2010 10:54 PM


Originally Posted by Pablo Diablo (Post 8199503)
since everyone is talking about shocks and gear diffs, here are some things I have been working on.

I didn't drill out the TRF caps, I machined down the Xray tops a little. I also run TRF bladders. One thing to consider is that TRF's are longer and at ride height, are more compressed than Xray shocks. As discussed in the HB Cyclone thread, this does seem to take some grip away.

As for the diff, you just can't come close to the quality of the NT1 diffs. Spec R's don't even come close. Now that I have mine done just watch Xray release theirs and make all the time it took a waste.

Awesome! Can't wait to strap my one in :D :D :D

What are those outdrives??

darrenoakley 11-13-2010 01:39 AM

Just finished my t3 011 build and have to say how easy it goes together. Also feels really smooth and great quality, just really well designed. The only problems I had was getting the servo saver in the right place between the top deck.
In the manual it shows adding a 1mm shim under the steering arm (wheel end). Is this correct as the ball stud doesn't seem to go very far into the arm with it fitted. I had some spare screws so have used longer ones but just wanted to check.
Also I presume the plastic nuts that you can fit on the shock mounts are also optional as it says to use longer screws if needed.

B4james 11-13-2010 02:53 AM


Originally Posted by darrenoakley (Post 8203549)
Just finished my t3 011 build and have to say how easy it goes together. Also feels really smooth and great quality, just really well designed. The only problems I had was getting the servo saver in the right place between the top deck.
In the manual it shows adding a 1mm shim under the steering arm (wheel end). Is this correct as the ball stud doesn't seem to go very far into the arm with it fitted. I had some spare screws so have used longer ones but just wanted to check.
Also I presume the plastic nuts that you can fit on the shock mounts are also optional as it says to use longer screws if needed.

Yes, the plastic nuts on the shock tower are optional. I generally only space the shocks out when changing between wheelbases.

I also changed to different longer ball studs for peace of mind ;)

Pablo Diablo 11-13-2010 04:21 AM


Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO (Post 8200700)
I have been running my tamiya shocks that way for about 5 months now. And about a month ago I decided to try cutting my shock shaft so they were more extended and more oil over the piston. Magic number I came up with was 2mm lol. Car works lots better that way:nod:

And second, I need those outdrives you have in your nt1 diff, will you sell me a set? I hate the tiny blades you have to use in the outdrives! Also are you running all Capricorn insides in the diff? You will have a diff that's 1 or 2 grams lighter then a spec r that holds up to modified power no problem

Yep, 2mm shorter is where I am at. I took 1.5mm off the shafts and mount the shocks about 0.6mm higher.

The outdrive is a prototype. If Xray release a geardiff, these might be popular enough to go into production. Currently the NT1 diff requires the old 3mm blades which are chewing up fast. Considering how long blades are lasting on a spool with my outdrives, they should last an eternity on a diff. These will allow me to run 52mm driveshafts too.

Not sure about the gears for the diff. How good are the capricorn ones? I think 3racing gears fit too. I want a bulletproof diff for running mod.

Chris08527 11-13-2010 07:15 AM

what batteries are most running in there t3 11, do some fit better then others???

Chris-s 11-13-2010 08:42 AM

Running an 5600Mah 50C LRP, fits fine.

StevenOlsen 11-13-2010 09:17 AM


Originally Posted by Chris08527 (Post 8204010)
what batteries are most running in there t3 11, do some fit better then others???

have tryed IP 3800 35C, IP 5000 30C, SMC 5200 50C, LRP 5300 28C. LRP 5900 50C :) all fits fine :)

BlackedOutREVO 11-13-2010 10:07 AM


Originally Posted by Pablo Diablo (Post 8203714)
Yep, 2mm shorter is where I am at. I took 1.5mm off the shafts and mount the shocks about 0.6mm higher.

The outdrive is a prototype. If Xray release a geardiff, these might be popular enough to go into production. Currently the NT1 diff requires the old 3mm blades which are chewing up fast. Considering how long blades are lasting on a spool with my outdrives, they should last an eternity on a diff. These will allow me to run 52mm driveshafts too.

Not sure about the gears for the diff. How good are the capricorn ones? I think 3racing gears fit too. I want a bulletproof diff for running mod.

I will send you a pm. Don't wanna clog up the thread lol

rx7ttlm 11-13-2010 12:03 PM

Brandon- have patience, xray is working on a gear diff. I am confident that after the 1/8th onroad is shipping they will get a gear diff out :p. I am thinking I will have one in my hands before carpet nats.

darrenoakley 11-13-2010 12:09 PM


Originally Posted by Chris08527 (Post 8204010)
what batteries are most running in there t3 11, do some fit better then others???

Yeah Nosram 5600 50c fits perfect too.


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