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Old 11-10-2010, 10:00 AM   #751
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would that include 2011 specific parts as well?
-Mark
I am not 100% sure but I believe most 2011 parts are in that shipment as well.
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Old 11-11-2010, 03:09 AM   #752
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i ran the t3'11 for a few hours tonight and the savox servo i was trying out worked awesome never once had a problem with it. i think i am going to change to the savox servo's from now on, i love the price and also the aluminum center housing that dissipates the heat from the servo and the color is not bad either.... 2 thumbs up for me on the servo

the T3'11 car is working better and better every time i am out with it.... i ran 2 gear diff tonight and found the car very easy to drive and it was fast in and out of the corners just great traction all around... i also had the stand up post in the middle like i mentioned previously before on the post... somebody tell xray to hurry up and build the gear diff's for the car because the spec r diff's don't last long you have to rebuild them to way to soon....

frank b
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Old 11-11-2010, 04:13 AM   #753
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ok guys, whats the secret to building shocks properly with the low profile bladders?

i've normally had no issues with adjustable pistons, plastic bodies and the deep bladders.. rebound has not been an issue ever.
the 2011 low profile bladders are causing all sorts of grief.. squelchy, inconsistent rebound and almost impossible to bleed to 0% rebound.

i've changed back to the deep bladders, followed the same process as i did with the low profiles and they've ended up perfectly smooth and setting rebound is not an issue...

do i need to hold my head at the right angle with my tongue in the corner of my mouth????
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Old 11-11-2010, 05:23 AM   #754
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I would love to see a pic of you car set up frank b
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Old 11-11-2010, 06:34 AM   #755
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Originally Posted by mok View Post
ok guys, whats the secret to building shocks properly with the low profile bladders?

i've normally had no issues with adjustable pistons, plastic bodies and the deep bladders.. rebound has not been an issue ever.
the 2011 low profile bladders are causing all sorts of grief.. squelchy, inconsistent rebound and almost impossible to bleed to 0% rebound.

i've changed back to the deep bladders, followed the same process as i did with the low profiles and they've ended up perfectly smooth and setting rebound is not an issue...

do i need to hold my head at the right angle with my tongue in the corner of my mouth????
Drill a hole in the cap, build it like a tamiya shock. thats how I did it after having the same issues you did. I got 0% on all my shocks
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Old 11-11-2010, 06:53 AM   #756
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i got spec r diff. What oil should I use? I run outdoor asphalt thanks
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Old 11-11-2010, 06:54 AM   #757
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Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
Drill a hole in the cap, build it like a tamiya shock. thats how I did it after having the same issues you did. I got 0% on all my shocks
just drilled a hole in the cap, 1.0mm diameter..

the results, the one shock i did i've managed to be able to set rebound and its smooth and non-squelchy!
i even counted 25 pumps of the shock shaft and checked round, 25% exactly as the manual specifies..

i'm about to drill another shock cap and build the shock, hopefully it goes like the first one!!

-Mark

*EDIT* All 4 shocks have been drilled and built, exactly the same rebound and super smooth action
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Last edited by mok; 11-11-2010 at 07:21 AM.
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Old 11-11-2010, 07:39 AM   #758
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I would love to see a pic of you car set up frank b
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Originally Posted by frank b View Post
i ran the t3'11 for a few hours tonight and the savox servo i was trying out worked awesome never once had a problem with it. i think i am going to change to the savox servo's from now on, i love the price and also the aluminum center housing that dissipates the heat from the servo and the color is not bad either.... 2 thumbs up for me on the servo

the T3'11 car is working better and better every time i am out with it.... i ran 2 gear diff tonight and found the car very easy to drive and it was fast in and out of the corners just great traction all around... i also had the stand up post in the middle like i mentioned previously before on the post... somebody tell xray to hurry up and build the gear diff's for the car because the spec r diff's don't last long you have to rebuild them to way to soon....

frank b
yes would be nice with pics and what oil do you running ?
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Old 11-11-2010, 10:56 AM   #759
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Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
Drill a hole in the cap, build it like a tamiya shock. thats how I did it after having the same issues you did. I got 0% on all my shocks
That's what I did, too. Also, I'm not using the rebound foam. I did this when I was running a different touring car. Seems to work pretty well that way.
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Old 11-11-2010, 11:24 AM   #760
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Drill a hole in the cap, build it like a tamiya shock. thats how I did it after having the same issues you did. I got 0% on all my shocks

what do you mean by drilling a hole in the cap? the cap already has a hole in it???????
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Old 11-11-2010, 12:06 PM   #761
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what do you mean by drilling a hole in the cap? the cap already has a hole in it???????
No. A small hole in the cap to vent the excess air. Here's a pic from a Assoc shock.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 11-11-2010, 12:13 PM   #762
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i got spec r diff. What oil should I use? I run outdoor asphalt thanks
1000 diff oil seems to be good, go higher if on carpet.

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Old 11-11-2010, 12:19 PM   #763
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Originally Posted by bfong13 View Post
No. A small hole in the cap to vent the excess air. Here's a pic from a Assoc shock.

[IMG][/IMG]
what do you gain by doing so?
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Old 11-11-2010, 12:38 PM   #764
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Originally Posted by Corally_27 View Post
what do you gain by doing so?
It makes the pressure behind the bladder the same as atmospheric pressure, so rather than the rebound changing through the run as the shocks get hotter. Normally the increase in temperature would increase pressure inside the shock bladder and increase rebound as the ambient temperature increases.
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Old 11-11-2010, 12:43 PM   #765
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It makes the pressure behind the bladder the same as atmospheric pressure, so rather than the rebound changing through the run as the shocks get hotter. Normally the increase in temperature would increase pressure inside the shock bladder and increase rebound as the ambient temperature increases.
i thought i helps you in the building of the shock not in the performance
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