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Old 11-07-2010, 10:49 PM   #721
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If you're shimming the upper bulkhead parts that retain the diff bearings, then you're doing something wrong. Same goes for the top deck, but its not impossible... I'll give u the benefit of the doubt on that one.
He's just fresh out of the Tamiya camp, its a Tamiya camper practice to shim the upper bulk off of the bearing holder.
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Old 11-07-2010, 10:54 PM   #722
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If you're shimming the upper bulkhead parts that retain the diff bearings, then you're doing something wrong. Same goes for the top deck, but its not impossible... I'll give u the benefit of the doubt on that one.
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He's just fresh out of the Tamiya camp, its a Tamiya camper practice to shim the upper bulk off of the bearing holder.
im going to stick with craig on this one, try it for yourself and see what happens
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Old 11-08-2010, 12:07 AM   #723
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He's just fresh out of the Tamiya camp, its a Tamiya camper practice to shim the upper bulk off of the bearing holder.
actually the fit of the clamps was slightly worse than the tamiya, I could have gone to 0.2mm shims instead of 0.1mm
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Old 11-08-2010, 11:26 AM   #724
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Shimmed mine up as well... Transmission is noticably more free...

Can't understand why everybody is having problems getting their wiring neat though... Mine is the cleanest install i've ever done
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Old 11-08-2010, 01:13 PM   #725
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Can't understand why everybody is having problems getting their wiring neat though... Mine is the cleanest install i've ever done
Post a pic, would love to see it. Formulating ideas in my head while I wait for my car to come in on the next shipment.
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Old 11-08-2010, 02:07 PM   #726
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Not completly finished as you can see.. I destroyed my servo before I got the car so i've gotta get a new one, but I have placed the old one in the car and it butts right up against the reciever perfectly (with a slightly modification to where the wires come out the servo case)



Just waiting on new servo and thinner speed passion 1.5 farad capacitor and it'll be ready .. Super neat.
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Old 11-08-2010, 02:11 PM   #727
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Looks good. I just bought the crimping tool so I can shorten my wires when the new kit arrives. That is a big speedo, you made it fit nicely. Post a pic when it's all finished.
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Old 11-08-2010, 02:31 PM   #728
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Will do... So far it's all coming along sexily anyway XD
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Old 11-08-2010, 03:34 PM   #729
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From the looks of your photo,
I think you must already have the XRay T4 2014 hidden somewhere
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Old 11-08-2010, 04:43 PM   #730
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It's under the pillow on the right ;-)
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:40 PM   #731
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Originally Posted by Cocoon View Post
Not completly finished as you can see.. I destroyed my servo before I got the car so i've gotta get a new one, but I have placed the old one in the car and it butts right up against the reciever perfectly (with a slightly modification to where the wires come out the servo case)



Just waiting on new servo and thinner speed passion 1.5 farad capacitor and it'll be ready .. Super neat.
When that sp cap gets there. Be damn sure to read the header card and make sure it not a super schokie diode. Its really really sucks if you try and se one by mistake.
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Old 11-08-2010, 08:50 PM   #732
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i do agree about shimming the bulk head bearing clamps, i have been doing it since the first t3. i have tried everything to free up the drive train and the only thing that worked was to shim the clamps, the shims i used are .01 on all the holes and not to shim the top deck just the clamps. there is something else everybody should try is that i have noticed the top deck flexes a bit and driving the car for 2 race weekend i kinda thought the top deck had some wide spots in certain area's and that it had a little to much flex. last week there was a racer that broke his top deck during a practice day T3'11 and my thoughts about what was happening happened. so i had an extra aluminum post from the t3 and i installed it in the center of the top deck were there is a hole already there and the hole is pretty much in the center of the car, i ran the car last weekend with the post in and found it made the car a lot easier to drive, it does not allow the top deck to compress but allows the side to side action needed for certain tracks. it would be nice if racers would let other racers know certain tricks that they are doing on there cars so everybody can get up to speed with the xray T3'11... i hope i helped
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Old 11-09-2010, 02:11 AM   #733
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Originally Posted by frank b View Post
i do agree about shimming the bulk head bearing clamps, i have been doing it since the first t3. i have tried everything to free up the drive train and the only thing that worked was to shim the clamps, the shims i used are .01 on all the holes and not to shim the top deck just the clamps. there is something else everybody should try is that i have noticed the top deck flexes a bit and driving the car for 2 race weekend i kinda thought the top deck had some wide spots in certain area's and that it had a little to much flex. last week there was a racer that broke his top deck during a practice day T3'11 and my thoughts about what was happening happened. so i had an extra aluminum post from the t3 and i installed it in the center of the top deck were there is a hole already there and the hole is pretty much in the center of the car, i ran the car last weekend with the post in and found it made the car a lot easier to drive, it does not allow the top deck to compress but allows the side to side action needed for certain tracks. it would be nice if racers would let other racers know certain tricks that they are doing on there cars so everybody can get up to speed with the xray T3'11... i hope i helped
+1 on the centre stiffener post, I had the same idea when I tested the car. The top deck really does flex in the centre section, the post helped settle the car nicely.
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Old 11-09-2010, 03:04 AM   #734
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I shouldn't think it is, I've seen pictures of team drivers using them so hopefully not a problem.
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Old 11-09-2010, 09:54 AM   #735
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I find it strange that there are no holes in the chassiss for balancing weights.
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