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Old 11-06-2010, 02:09 AM   #706
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I'm about 3/4 done building my '11, and I'm pretty impressed with the quality so far. The tolerances are excellent, the only things I found needing attention were some filing of the ends of the top deck to stop it pinching slightly between the bulkhead clamps, and the clamps themselves needed some shimming so as not to compress the eccentric bearing carrier too much, which can cause the 10x15 bearings to wear early. When I'm done I'll post a full build review

This is my first xray after a long time running tamiya

Question: are most people running non-adjustable pistons?
Welcome to xray Craig, I run the adjustables, Ive also run the fixed and haven't noticed a huge difference between both, occasionally I would click a hole closed depending on conditions which is handy and quick.
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Old 11-06-2010, 03:49 AM   #707
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Question: are most people running non-adjustable pistons?
Stock hole diameter of 1.0mm with 3 hole pistons front and rear. Carpet I start with 500f/ 350r. Like dave said, most of the US team runs the fixed pistons. They work better, less air, less nonsense. Sometimes on asphalt I run 1.1mm holes
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Old 11-06-2010, 08:05 AM   #708
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Compare the length of the "old" xray springs to the new ones that came with the kit. Maybe they are taller ?
Yup i have to use the alu 08 shocks in order to get the desired ride height. I stick with it as now i have a beautiful handling car, From the stock rubber set up i ran a downstop of 8 front and 7 rear and rear in a kick up. Change the front to 50mm ECS while rear remain at 52.

Car is good driver needs alot of practice to bring the time down.
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Old 11-06-2010, 08:07 AM   #709
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Anyone know if a Futaba receiver can be mounted on it's side and still clear the upper deck and not hang off the side. Trying to vision how to mount it. Thanks.
I can mount the electronics all flat as i using the 614 receiver that came with the 4pks, do not have to trim the servo(BLS551) Lrp esc (SXXver2) i mount the transponder behind the servo.
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Old 11-06-2010, 04:36 PM   #710
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Here is what I would say. If your driving is at a point where your running 5-6 min races and not dotting out each run then you would probably benefit from the new car. But if your still bouncing off the walls and breaking often then you need to work on you, more than the car. Also if your t3 is worn and could use new bearings, cvd's etc then it could be worth it. If your consistency is there as a driver then the new car could be a good thing for you. Also if you have 500 bucks that's burning a hole in your pocket lol. Its not going to be a magic 0.3 tenths / lap cause the t3 is a great car. But if your a consistent driver and your decent with setup it should be a good move.
my car runs taily and understeers but i would say i havent broke 1 part there a strong car
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Old 11-07-2010, 01:48 AM   #711
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Welcome to xray Craig, I run the adjustables, Ive also run the fixed and haven't noticed a huge difference between both, occasionally I would click a hole closed depending on conditions which is handy and quick.
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Originally Posted by rx7ttlm View Post
Stock hole diameter of 1.0mm with 3 hole pistons front and rear. Carpet I start with 500f/ 350r. Like dave said, most of the US team runs the fixed pistons. They work better, less air, less nonsense. Sometimes on asphalt I run 1.1mm holes
Thanks for the tips guys, I built them up with the 3 hole fixed pistons but I'm not happy with how they built or the dampening action so I'm gonna swap them for some tamiyas. Car is built and ready to hit the track, looking forward to it
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Old 11-07-2010, 02:58 AM   #712
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Thanks for the tips guys, I built them up with the 3 hole fixed pistons but I'm not happy with how they built or the dampening action so I'm gonna swap them for some tamiyas. Car is built and ready to hit the track, looking forward to it
hi can someone tell me the part no of the tamiya shock pls
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Old 11-07-2010, 03:46 AM   #713
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I'm about 3/4 done building my '11, and I'm pretty impressed with the quality so far. The tolerances are excellent, the only things I found needing attention were some filing of the ends of the top deck to stop it pinching slightly between the bulkhead clamps, and the clamps themselves needed some shimming so as not to compress the eccentric bearing carrier too much, which can cause the 10x15 bearings to wear early. When I'm done I'll post a full build review

This is my first xray after a long time running tamiya

Question: are most people running non-adjustable pistons?
so the rumor is true

can i have your Tamiya T-shirts and accesories then, and all those blue tools and stuff you have
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Old 11-07-2010, 04:23 AM   #714
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hi can someone tell me the part no of the tamiya shock pls

i found two sets the 84008 or the 42012 which one of these sets is god to be used on the xray?
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Old 11-07-2010, 04:40 AM   #715
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i found two sets the 84008 or the 42012 which one of these sets is god to be used on the xray?
I'm curious too.

These (53571) would look better than blue.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=TAM53571

I saw someone recently with black anodized Tamiya shocks on a CEFX evolution conversion. I should have asked him which part number they were.
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Old 11-07-2010, 04:25 PM   #716
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i found two sets the 84008 or the 42012 which one of these sets is god to be used on the xray?
84008 are the black version, 42012 are blue. Both can be made to fit the xray but you either need to use the tamiya mounting hardware or (even better) mod the shock cap or plastic top to work together. Paul (Pablo Diablo) has done a wicked job on his, he might post some pics.

My '11 is ready to go, looks like the weather might spoil the fun tomorrow though
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Old 11-07-2010, 08:08 PM   #717
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mod the shock cap... originally done by Ben Cribbin

Or, you can use TC5/6 top mounts (part no31250 I think)
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Old 11-07-2010, 09:00 PM   #718
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here is my T3 2011 to share.. =>
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Old 11-07-2010, 10:45 PM   #719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
I'm about 3/4 done building my '11, and I'm pretty impressed with the quality so far. The tolerances are excellent, the only things I found needing attention were some filing of the ends of the top deck to stop it pinching slightly between the bulkhead clamps, and the clamps themselves needed some shimming so as not to compress the eccentric bearing carrier too much, which can cause the 10x15 bearings to wear early. When I'm done I'll post a full build review

This is my first xray after a long time running tamiya

Question: are most people running non-adjustable pistons?
If you're shimming the upper bulkhead parts that retain the diff bearings, then you're doing something wrong. Same goes for the top deck, but its not impossible... I'll give u the benefit of the doubt on that one.
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Old 11-07-2010, 10:48 PM   #720
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Originally Posted by rx7ttlm View Post
Stock hole diameter of 1.0mm with 3 hole pistons front and rear. Carpet I start with 500f/ 350r. Like dave said, most of the US team runs the fixed pistons. They work better, less air, less nonsense. Sometimes on asphalt I run 1.1mm holes
Stock fixed pistons are 0.9mm. The only pistons that come with 1.0mm holes are the aluminum shock pistons. It's a good idea to run a 0.9mm or 1.0mm drill thru the piston holes though.
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