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Old 08-22-2012, 07:18 PM   #4111
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So I have T3 2011 that I was planning on using as my VTA car, but unfortunately I will be out of the hobby for the next year...the question is...will the T3 2011 be still relatively competitive in a year or two, or should I sell it and get something newer next year?
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Old 08-22-2012, 07:30 PM   #4112
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Originally Posted by Misiek View Post
So I have T3 2011 that I was planning on using as my VTA car, but unfortunately I will be out of the hobby for the next year...the question is...will the T3 2011 be still relatively competitive in a year or two, or should I sell it and get something newer next year?
It will be perfectly fine for VTA, even fine for most any classes, most of the new designs are all small refinements. On the flip side you can still get decent cash for a '11 now, if you decide to get something new in another year the market may not give you as much for it.
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:41 PM   #4113
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What are the differences between a 011 and a 012 and is it that much of a difference? I have and 011 and I have a CSO east/west servo mount in my car. Exotech steering stiffener and center steering mount. I haven't raced the car yet but I would like to update it as much as posible.
Has anyone tried a Exotech Chassis conversion for the 011 or a Smokem chassis?
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:02 AM   #4114
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Wow, 6 months since the last post on this thread? IS the '11 that dead?

I just picked one up - thinking that hey its a 1 1/2 year old car - still great support, not much has changed - lipo designed chassis, should be pretty easy to find support.

Did not think I would have to go to page 13 of the onroad forum to find it !!

Anyway.

1. if your reading this and you have any spare parts lying around you want to get rid of .. let me know. I did not get much with my roller, and every bit helps.

2. Recomendations for 17.5 TC? no boost? Car setup I mean.

- springs - 3racing set good for these shocks?

- Do I need to run roll bars? didnt get any with the roller.

- I have ball diff - and spool up front - is a gear diff NEEDED?

Best aftermarket parts for this car- ie price vs quality or names I have not heard of?

James
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:02 AM   #4115
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jezz I seem to double post all the time, frustating.

Last edited by Bikerbob; 02-13-2013 at 09:07 AM. Reason: Dbl post
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:49 AM   #4116
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Originally Posted by Bikerbob View Post
Wow, 6 months since the last post on this thread? IS the '11 that dead?

I just picked one up - thinking that hey its a 1 1/2 year old car - still great support, not much has changed - lipo designed chassis, should be pretty easy to find support.

Did not think I would have to go to page 13 of the onroad forum to find it !!

Anyway.

1. if your reading this and you have any spare parts lying around you want to get rid of .. let me know. I did not get much with my roller, and every bit helps.

2. Recomendations for 17.5 TC? no boost? Car setup I mean.

- springs - 3racing set good for these shocks?

- Do I need to run roll bars? didnt get any with the roller.

- I have ball diff - and spool up front - is a gear diff NEEDED?

Best aftermarket parts for this car- ie price vs quality or names I have not heard of?

James
I'd recommend getting some sway bars. The gear diff offers more tune-ability and needs less maintenance than the ball, but it's not a must. I also recommend getting a chassis that rotates the servo, an xray '12, an exotek, or other. My '11 is ran quite frequently and it's still competitive.
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:56 AM   #4117
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Aim running my '11 in a VTA class and it is working great using the stock setup. The only thing I have done and recommend is changing the front drive shafts to the ESC shafts. I am using the arrowmax shafts and they have held up perfectly. The pins are identical to the xray pins.

The other easy mod is changing the steering over to the '12 style. For this I just cut off the arm, shoogoo'd the servo down and drilled a new hole in the arm for the link. Works great! Not sure if it made a drive ability difference that I can feel but it gave me a lot more space to mount the electronics.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:38 AM   #4118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samnelso View Post
I'd recommend getting some sway bars. The gear diff offers more tune-ability and needs less maintenance than the ball, but it's not a must. I also recommend getting a chassis that rotates the servo, an xray '12, an exotek, or other. My '11 is ran quite frequently and it's still competitive.
Ok this servo thing, find it interesting that they set it up in the center that way on the 11 - and I see it went back to the way we all have been doing it for 30 years. Now is the stock way work poor? or can it get damaged more? whats the draw back of just running it the way it is?

James
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:41 AM   #4119
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
The other easy mod is changing the steering over to the '12 style. For this I just cut off the arm, shoogoo'd the servo down and drilled a new hole in the arm for the link. Works great! Not sure if it made a drive ability difference that I can feel but it gave me a lot more space to mount the electronics.
So you did a DIY mod? did you set it up so you have equal steering still? would love to see a pic .. I think I am going to have mounting issues as well.

James
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:52 AM   #4120
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Hey James
I am running my T3-11 in CVTA at Lou's and have a T3-12 for Stock TC.
The 11 still has the north south servo positioning but has most of the other mods to make it a 12. I see no advantage to moving to east west with the servo other than space and weight placement.
As far as parts anything plastic I am purchasing X-ray as their plastic is second to none.
For other bolt on stuff SpecR seems to have lot's and Lou's stocks what I have wanted as well. Sway bar kit and the ECS shafts are the 2 that I can think of. Going to if a spring set is on the wall this weekend at the SOS race.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:09 PM   #4121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GiMLit View Post
Hey James
I am running my T3-11 in CVTA at Lou's and have a T3-12 for Stock TC.
The 11 still has the north south servo positioning but has most of the other mods to make it a 12. I see no advantage to moving to east west with the servo other than space and weight placement.
As far as parts anything plastic I am purchasing X-ray as their plastic is second to none.
For other bolt on stuff SpecR seems to have lot's and Lou's stocks what I have wanted as well. Sway bar kit and the ECS shafts are the 2 that I can think of. Going to if a spring set is on the wall this weekend at the SOS race.
Turning the servo to the east-west position can make your small inputs of steering more noticable, because the servo needs to use more of its movement to move the wheels the same amount compared to north-south.

I prefer the feel with the servo turned to e-w, but I know some pretty quick drivers with this car that still run the steering system bare bones stock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikerbob View Post
Wow, 6 months since the last post on this thread? IS the '11 that dead?

I just picked one up - thinking that hey its a 1 1/2 year old car - still great support, not much has changed - lipo designed chassis, should be pretty easy to find support.

Did not think I would have to go to page 13 of the onroad forum to find it !!

Anyway.

1. if your reading this and you have any spare parts lying around you want to get rid of .. let me know. I did not get much with my roller, and every bit helps.

2. Recomendations for 17.5 TC? no boost? Car setup I mean.

- springs - 3racing set good for these shocks?

- Do I need to run roll bars? didnt get any with the roller.

- I have ball diff - and spool up front - is a gear diff NEEDED?

Best aftermarket parts for this car- ie price vs quality or names I have not heard of?

James
A gear diff will make the car a little bit more active in the on-power steering department, but also make it a bit tougher to drive consistantly. On a lap, by far faster, but for 17.5 TC it's really all down to preference.

Roll bars are a must for TC racing on rubber tires.

Xray's spring kit is spectacular for this car. I've ran it since day one and have had no issues whatsoever. All their springs are closely matched, keep their tension, and work very well with the car.

Here's a setup you can try, it's the one I ran last when my '11 was my 17.5 car:

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011

It uses the old T3'10 top deck and an Exotech chassis, but it should be a good starting point. If you find the back end is coming around, try adjusting either the front spring, the rear camber, or the rear inner arm pin position. One of those three should cure it, as I like quite a pointy car on initial turn in and corner exit.
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:33 PM   #4122
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Originally Posted by Bikerbob View Post
Ok this servo thing, find it interesting that they set it up in the center that way on the 11 - and I see it went back to the way we all have been doing it for 30 years. Now is the stock way work poor? or can it get damaged more? whats the draw back of just running it the way it is?

James
When I put the Exotek chassis on I immediately felt more connected to the car, faster steering reactions, and quicker lap times. I cannot distinguish if it was the chassis itself, the turned servo, or a combo of both, but regardless, it is a change I'd make again without question.
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Old 02-13-2013, 02:30 PM   #4123
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This is what I am looking for right now..


Servo mounts XR-306200-K(or suggestion on something else to get it mounted (I will try the stock position first.)

Servo saver ... can the kimborourgh smaller one be used?? I have that.

battery cups ---- A+ ALU 7075 Lipo battery mount(with strap) - This looks good for me.. I hate TAPE.

xray hard foam bumper 301223 Told this keeps it in one piece.

xray front body mount 301322
(spec-r body mount set SPR032-BHXR) - NEED front body mounts that will fit the stock bottom hex fitting.. SUggestions?

Spec-r SPR024-RBXR roll bar set - This looks good and 1/2 the price of Xray.


This is who looks best to get stuff from....

Optional - RCmarket / RCmushroom

A+ rc products

Team CSO

SPEC-R

Thanks for everyones responses.. its helping.. and I downloaded the setup Danny - see what that will do for me.

James
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:53 AM   #4124
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Getting it together, only 4 things I need to run.

1. One of the black wheel hex drives.

2. servo saver insert for JR (stock kit saver) or another saver to use. Guess I could use a Kimborough? comments?

3. front body posts - local shop might have them. Bottoms have a hex in it to fit in the lower plate - any others work?

4. battery cups - plastic or otherwise.

The roller has the anti rollbar holders on it.. just no bars.. maybe I can borrow a pair.

Going with a 41 pinion on a 96 spur 4.5 fdr - ?? - seen this FDR on setup sheets.

Main belt looks to have a twist to it.. in the length between center and spool it tends to twist - runs good it would seem does the twist mean worn out?

Thanks
James
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:17 PM   #4125
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I have a couple of questions for anyone that owned/owns an Xray T3.

1) Gearing for 17.5T TC, I will be running a Reedy 17.5T with high Torque rotor whats a good FDR to aim for and what size Spur/Pinions should I look at? Someone locally advised to aim for between 5-6 FDR.

2) Any necessary mods the T3 '11 needs that wont break the bank?

3) Any necessary spares I should stock up on?

4) Any standard or starter setup sheets anyone can recommend?

Look forward to crashing into some walls soon.
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