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Old 05-08-2012, 09:41 PM   #4081
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Originally Posted by rshair View Post
assume you are running spool front? for me spool tends to understeer. i am also running on asphalt, low-medium grip and medium track outdoors. without buying anything you can:
1. run kit setup 350 cst with 3 holes front and rear unless you are running that already. you can try 4 holes to get more roll but too soft shocks leads to overheating tires then there is no grip
2. run short camber link in the front to increase the camber rise. static camber should be 1.5 deg all round. or adjust as you please.
3. run the -0.75 suspension arm holders to give more roll (front and rear), not a favorite but you will get more roll.
4. run the diffs in lower position
5. remove some of the screws from the top deck, you can try removing 2 from the rear first (the motor bulk heads) and then 2 from the front and see how it goes. more flex should give some grip
6. with some elbow grease you can cut the rear bit of the top deck and joins together near the motor end, there was a posting of this somewhere in this forum. worked for me.
7. reduce the wheelbase of the car on the rear, should get some better turn in. you can push in the rear anti roll bar so that it sticks out by 2 mm and push in the front anti roll bar as much as possible. some say it is better to reduce the wheelbase from the front rather than rear.
8. you can reduce the track width in the front a little but you need to experiment and find that balance. you may get something but you lose others.

if you plan to remove that spool, try a gear diff in the front, 150 k diff oil and adjust as you see fit. if you plan to buy then you can get the rear diff as well, get some springs, anti roll bars.

you can try soft inserts (even low profiles) to give you with more air gap.
the looks like a good set up but
Hey just a quick question. I haven/t ran my Xray for almost a year now. well it seems, sorry ran it once on carpet last winter with rubber tires. so now i'm going back out side. does anyone have a good set up for 17.5 blinky on a short asphalt track. the car is stock no hoop up or nothing. so lay it one me.

the motor is going to be a sonic 17.5

esc does it really matter its blinky.
Cheers

DRew
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Old 05-20-2012, 01:39 PM   #4082
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Default front knuckle screw

I've recently lost a few bottom screws from the front left arm / knuckle. I replaced the knuckle last time it happened. Anyone have any advice on why this is happening and what I can do to prevent it.
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Old 05-20-2012, 03:54 PM   #4083
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anyone have a good pinion/spur combo for 17.5 blinky with a fantom D3 or a sonic?
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Old 05-20-2012, 04:10 PM   #4084
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anyone have a good pinion/spur combo for 17.5 blinky with a fantom D3 or a sonic?
92T spur and 47-50T pinion for N/R 17.5
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Old 05-21-2012, 04:15 AM   #4085
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gear for 3.8 FDR for 17.5 blinky with Revtech/Trinity or associated motors. lower number for bigger track, higher for tighter track. Choice of pinion/spur is whatever suits your car and what is available. Try gearchart.com to work it out

To free up the rear end you need to RAISE the rear roll center, not lower it. You can do this by dropping the inner upper camber link to the lower inner hole(less effect), or raising the lower suspension arm(more effect). Try stiffening the rear spring too, go to a 2.8 rear spring. Or you can just move the shocks more upright.
Download the setup workbench app for iphone/android and all your questions will be answered. Best 5 bucks I ever spent
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Old 05-25-2012, 03:41 PM   #4086
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Bigger track 3.85 smaller track like what I run, 3.96. Small track, you won't have any go till half way down the straight. 48P 69/33or34, 64P 90/44or45
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Old 05-25-2012, 04:01 PM   #4087
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I've recently lost a few bottom screws from the front left arm / knuckle. I replaced the knuckle last time it happened. Anyone have any advice on why this is happening and what I can do to prevent it.
This happens to me occasionally as well. I check these screws as often as I remember and just snug them up when they're loose.
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Old 05-25-2012, 04:03 PM   #4088
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I like running 100T xray spurs when I can as the motor button head screw will fit through the holes in the gear, unlike smaller spurs.
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Old 05-27-2012, 07:02 AM   #4089
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Ive checked the parts cross reference table, but just want to confirm that T2 arms, uprights, C-Hubs can be used on the T311.

Also with regards to the L and H blocks are you able to use these in all 4 roll centre positions ( can they be flipped over ) or do you need to use the orange roll centre mounts from the T2009?

Thanks in advance
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:24 PM   #4090
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Ive checked the parts cross reference table, but just want to confirm that T2 arms, uprights, C-Hubs can be used on the T311.
Yes. There might be some variation in hard and extra hard spec arms, also, I think the T2009 might have had the 2 hole arms. T2008 also had the same molding arms and hubs, the T2007 had slightly different arms but the hubs are the same.

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Also with regards to the L and H blocks are you able to use these in all 4 roll centre positions ( can they be flipped over ) or do you need to use the orange roll centre mounts from the T2009?
Not so sure about this, the orange will fit in all four but I think you need to swap the the blocks between sides rather than turn them upside down.
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Old 06-04-2012, 06:45 PM   #4091
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can we use low mounting lower arm adapter (lower roll center)? the standard is the middle mounting im thinking to change with low mounting adapter because of block upper chamber link is limit im using standard L block. is it o.k for low grip track ?
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Old 06-24-2012, 05:34 AM   #4092
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awfull quiet in here!!
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Old 06-24-2012, 05:44 AM   #4093
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Awesomatix.
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Old 06-24-2012, 05:51 AM   #4094
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Awesomatix.


you got it?
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:47 AM   #4095
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Not yet. supposedly back in stock July.
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