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Old 04-16-2012, 06:57 AM   #4051
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Originally Posted by nerdling View Post
the clamps are 302028-o
8mm ball joints 302654
10mm ball joints 302655
ball ends 302661
ball ends (closed) 302665
gear diff kit 304900
Be interested to know how much all this costs. be cheaper to buy the 2012 and just sell your old car I reckon
You are missing the top deck and shock towers also if you want a 2012 conversion
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:30 PM   #4052
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I am actually having 2nd thoughts n locking in the rear. I am not sure that it is even what I need. A fellow racer told me that my car oversteered on power out of the turn which lead me down the locked in path.

I am wondering it I need to add more initial steering. His car is glued to the track and can traction roll it on command if he wanted. I cannot. What seems to be happening is my car is it steers well but as soon as the weight transfers to the front the car seems to really turn the rear around.

My concern is that if I add more steering into the turn it will also add more oversteer at the end of the turn.

Maybe a little bit more even steering all the ay through the turn would help keep the speed up.
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Old 04-17-2012, 07:05 AM   #4053
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
What seems to be happening is my car is it steers well but as soon as the weight transfers to the front the car seems to really turn the rear around.

My concern is that if I add more steering into the turn it will also add more oversteer at the end of the turn.

Maybe a little bit more even steering all the ay through the turn would help keep the speed up.
Try these, from first to last (only do one at a time):

Remove some droop from the rear
Use heavier front shock oil
Stand the front shocks up
Less camber gain in the front
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Old 04-17-2012, 01:01 PM   #4054
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
I am actually having 2nd thoughts n locking in the rear. I am not sure that it is even what I need. A fellow racer told me that my car oversteered on power out of the turn which lead me down the locked in path.

I am wondering it I need to add more initial steering. His car is glued to the track and can traction roll it on command if he wanted. I cannot. What seems to be happening is my car is it steers well but as soon as the weight transfers to the front the car seems to really turn the rear around.

My concern is that if I add more steering into the turn it will also add more oversteer at the end of the turn.

Maybe a little bit more even steering all the ay through the turn would help keep the speed up.
You could try moving the ESC etc closer to the front of the car. This should help smooth the steering out although you will lose a little.

Of the standard settings.
Try changing things that normally add mid-corner steering like ackerman and bump steer.
Possibly add rear toe.
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Old 04-17-2012, 07:02 PM   #4055
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
Be interested to know how much all this costs. be cheaper to buy the 2012 and just sell your old car I reckon
You are missing the top deck and shock towers also if you want a 2012 conversion
When the '12 was released my '11 car had all these parts fitted so it was cheaper for me to buy a chassis and a top deck.
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Old 04-17-2012, 10:00 PM   #4056
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Originally Posted by nerdling View Post
When the '12 was released my '11 car had all these parts fitted so it was cheaper for me to buy a chassis and a top deck.
Are there any great advantages on doing the 2012 conversion to the 2011?

also what is the aftermarket bottom deck of choice? one which has the option of running the servo east-west.
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:27 PM   #4057
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I'm having issues trying to install an 2012 Xray gear diff into my 2011 T3.

The issue I'm having is that when the diffs installed and i put the shafts in they go all the way to the end of the diff out drives but the hubs are in a "positive" camber angle without the camber links installed. So there is no way I can run "negative " camber because the shafts cant physically go in the diff out drives any more.

I'm running the standard rear 52mm shafts, some local guys have said they have run the diff with these shafts no problems. Others have had issues with binding. Will i need to run 50mm shafts? or is there a problem somewhere else in my car i may have overlooked?
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Old 04-25-2012, 01:35 AM   #4058
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have you tried shaving the end of the blade a little
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Old 04-25-2012, 02:37 AM   #4059
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Originally Posted by MrRolla View Post
I'm having issues trying to install an 2012 Xray gear diff into my 2011 T3.

The issue I'm having is that when the diffs installed and i put the shafts in they go all the way to the end of the diff out drives but the hubs are in a "positive" camber angle without the camber links installed. So there is no way I can run "negative " camber because the shafts cant physically go in the diff out drives any more.

I'm running the standard rear 52mm shafts, some local guys have said they have run the diff with these shafts no problems. Others have had issues with binding. Will i need to run 50mm shafts? or is there a problem somewhere else in my car i may have overlooked?
Some have said they get some binding, but not a huge amount, and that was with normal camber's.
If you can't get any negative camber at all you have done something wrong.

I can run the 52mm driveshafts no problem.

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Old 04-25-2012, 05:14 AM   #4060
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Some have said they get some binding, but not a huge amount, and that was with normal camber's.
If you can't get any negative camber at all you have done something wrong.

I can run the 52mm driveshafts no problem.

Skiddins
I'm not sure what could be wrong, car is factory and my mate ran the diff in his 12 no dramas. Can you advise me where to start troubleshooting?
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:35 AM   #4061
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRolla View Post
I'm having issues trying to install an 2012 Xray gear diff into my 2011 T3.

The issue I'm having is that when the diffs installed and i put the shafts in they go all the way to the end of the diff out drives but the hubs are in a "positive" camber angle without the camber links installed. So there is no way I can run "negative " camber because the shafts cant physically go in the diff out drives any more.

I'm running the standard rear 52mm shafts, some local guys have said they have run the diff with these shafts no problems. Others have had issues with binding. Will i need to run 50mm shafts? or is there a problem somewhere else in my car i may have overlooked?
I had the same problem. My car was setup with 1 deg toe rear hubs and .75mm shims in borad to give 3deg rear toe. This setup causes the rear track to be a bit more narrow, when I fitted the gear diff, I resolved the problem by fitting 50mm shafts. I recently tried 52mm shafts with 1.5mm inboard shims (0 deg out board hubs) giving a wider tracker. With both setups I had two deg of rear camber. With the 52mm shafts there was some slight binding at the top of suspension travel.
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:40 AM   #4062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRolla View Post
I'm having issues trying to install an 2012 Xray gear diff into my 2011 T3.

The issue I'm having is that when the diffs installed and i put the shafts in they go all the way to the end of the diff out drives but the hubs are in a "positive" camber angle without the camber links installed. So there is no way I can run "negative " camber because the shafts cant physically go in the diff out drives any more.

I'm running the standard rear 52mm shafts, some local guys have said they have run the diff with these shafts no problems. Others have had issues with binding. Will i need to run 50mm shafts? or is there a problem somewhere else in my car i may have overlooked?
How much inboard toe are you running in the rear?
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Old 04-26-2012, 03:13 AM   #4063
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How much inboard toe are you running in the rear?
All sorted, got it in with no binding, silly mistake i overlooked whilst rushing to make my race.. lol

Thanks for your help guys
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Old 04-26-2012, 03:21 AM   #4064
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anyone know anything about ceramic bearings? do they make much difference over kit bearings?
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Old 04-26-2012, 09:21 PM   #4065
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I run ceramic bearings, but only after the kit ones became a bit sloppy and I was sick of pulling those little blue seals off to clean them. They always seem to introduce drag into the bearing when you pull them on and off a few times. I think most people are of the opionin the ceramics are better, but havent seen any documented proof, only a "feeling" of less drag and cooler temps
I think the lube you use on the bearings is good way to reduce drag on the drivetrain, use a nice THIN bearing lube or something similar
I use the metal sheilded ceramics, and just clean them out in an ultrasonic jewellery cleaner I got from ALDI. No hassle about pulling sheilds on and off.
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