Xray T3 2011
#4051
You are missing the top deck and shock towers also if you want a 2012 conversion
#4052
I am actually having 2nd thoughts n locking in the rear. I am not sure that it is even what I need. A fellow racer told me that my car oversteered on power out of the turn which lead me down the locked in path.
I am wondering it I need to add more initial steering. His car is glued to the track and can traction roll it on command if he wanted. I cannot. What seems to be happening is my car is it steers well but as soon as the weight transfers to the front the car seems to really turn the rear around.
My concern is that if I add more steering into the turn it will also add more oversteer at the end of the turn.
Maybe a little bit more even steering all the ay through the turn would help keep the speed up.
I am wondering it I need to add more initial steering. His car is glued to the track and can traction roll it on command if he wanted. I cannot. What seems to be happening is my car is it steers well but as soon as the weight transfers to the front the car seems to really turn the rear around.
My concern is that if I add more steering into the turn it will also add more oversteer at the end of the turn.
Maybe a little bit more even steering all the ay through the turn would help keep the speed up.
#4053
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
What seems to be happening is my car is it steers well but as soon as the weight transfers to the front the car seems to really turn the rear around.
My concern is that if I add more steering into the turn it will also add more oversteer at the end of the turn.
Maybe a little bit more even steering all the ay through the turn would help keep the speed up.
My concern is that if I add more steering into the turn it will also add more oversteer at the end of the turn.
Maybe a little bit more even steering all the ay through the turn would help keep the speed up.
Remove some droop from the rear
Use heavier front shock oil
Stand the front shocks up
Less camber gain in the front
#4054
I am actually having 2nd thoughts n locking in the rear. I am not sure that it is even what I need. A fellow racer told me that my car oversteered on power out of the turn which lead me down the locked in path.
I am wondering it I need to add more initial steering. His car is glued to the track and can traction roll it on command if he wanted. I cannot. What seems to be happening is my car is it steers well but as soon as the weight transfers to the front the car seems to really turn the rear around.
My concern is that if I add more steering into the turn it will also add more oversteer at the end of the turn.
Maybe a little bit more even steering all the ay through the turn would help keep the speed up.
I am wondering it I need to add more initial steering. His car is glued to the track and can traction roll it on command if he wanted. I cannot. What seems to be happening is my car is it steers well but as soon as the weight transfers to the front the car seems to really turn the rear around.
My concern is that if I add more steering into the turn it will also add more oversteer at the end of the turn.
Maybe a little bit more even steering all the ay through the turn would help keep the speed up.
Of the standard settings.
Try changing things that normally add mid-corner steering like ackerman and bump steer.
Possibly add rear toe.
#4057
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (30)
I'm having issues trying to install an 2012 Xray gear diff into my 2011 T3.
The issue I'm having is that when the diffs installed and i put the shafts in they go all the way to the end of the diff out drives but the hubs are in a "positive" camber angle without the camber links installed. So there is no way I can run "negative " camber because the shafts cant physically go in the diff out drives any more.
I'm running the standard rear 52mm shafts, some local guys have said they have run the diff with these shafts no problems. Others have had issues with binding. Will i need to run 50mm shafts? or is there a problem somewhere else in my car i may have overlooked?
The issue I'm having is that when the diffs installed and i put the shafts in they go all the way to the end of the diff out drives but the hubs are in a "positive" camber angle without the camber links installed. So there is no way I can run "negative " camber because the shafts cant physically go in the diff out drives any more.
I'm running the standard rear 52mm shafts, some local guys have said they have run the diff with these shafts no problems. Others have had issues with binding. Will i need to run 50mm shafts? or is there a problem somewhere else in my car i may have overlooked?
#4058
have you tried shaving the end of the blade a little
#4059
I'm having issues trying to install an 2012 Xray gear diff into my 2011 T3.
The issue I'm having is that when the diffs installed and i put the shafts in they go all the way to the end of the diff out drives but the hubs are in a "positive" camber angle without the camber links installed. So there is no way I can run "negative " camber because the shafts cant physically go in the diff out drives any more.
I'm running the standard rear 52mm shafts, some local guys have said they have run the diff with these shafts no problems. Others have had issues with binding. Will i need to run 50mm shafts? or is there a problem somewhere else in my car i may have overlooked?
The issue I'm having is that when the diffs installed and i put the shafts in they go all the way to the end of the diff out drives but the hubs are in a "positive" camber angle without the camber links installed. So there is no way I can run "negative " camber because the shafts cant physically go in the diff out drives any more.
I'm running the standard rear 52mm shafts, some local guys have said they have run the diff with these shafts no problems. Others have had issues with binding. Will i need to run 50mm shafts? or is there a problem somewhere else in my car i may have overlooked?
If you can't get any negative camber at all you have done something wrong.
I can run the 52mm driveshafts no problem.
Skiddins
#4061
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
I'm having issues trying to install an 2012 Xray gear diff into my 2011 T3.
The issue I'm having is that when the diffs installed and i put the shafts in they go all the way to the end of the diff out drives but the hubs are in a "positive" camber angle without the camber links installed. So there is no way I can run "negative " camber because the shafts cant physically go in the diff out drives any more.
I'm running the standard rear 52mm shafts, some local guys have said they have run the diff with these shafts no problems. Others have had issues with binding. Will i need to run 50mm shafts? or is there a problem somewhere else in my car i may have overlooked?
The issue I'm having is that when the diffs installed and i put the shafts in they go all the way to the end of the diff out drives but the hubs are in a "positive" camber angle without the camber links installed. So there is no way I can run "negative " camber because the shafts cant physically go in the diff out drives any more.
I'm running the standard rear 52mm shafts, some local guys have said they have run the diff with these shafts no problems. Others have had issues with binding. Will i need to run 50mm shafts? or is there a problem somewhere else in my car i may have overlooked?
#4062
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
I'm having issues trying to install an 2012 Xray gear diff into my 2011 T3.
The issue I'm having is that when the diffs installed and i put the shafts in they go all the way to the end of the diff out drives but the hubs are in a "positive" camber angle without the camber links installed. So there is no way I can run "negative " camber because the shafts cant physically go in the diff out drives any more.
I'm running the standard rear 52mm shafts, some local guys have said they have run the diff with these shafts no problems. Others have had issues with binding. Will i need to run 50mm shafts? or is there a problem somewhere else in my car i may have overlooked?
The issue I'm having is that when the diffs installed and i put the shafts in they go all the way to the end of the diff out drives but the hubs are in a "positive" camber angle without the camber links installed. So there is no way I can run "negative " camber because the shafts cant physically go in the diff out drives any more.
I'm running the standard rear 52mm shafts, some local guys have said they have run the diff with these shafts no problems. Others have had issues with binding. Will i need to run 50mm shafts? or is there a problem somewhere else in my car i may have overlooked?
#4065
I run ceramic bearings, but only after the kit ones became a bit sloppy and I was sick of pulling those little blue seals off to clean them. They always seem to introduce drag into the bearing when you pull them on and off a few times. I think most people are of the opionin the ceramics are better, but havent seen any documented proof, only a "feeling" of less drag and cooler temps
I think the lube you use on the bearings is good way to reduce drag on the drivetrain, use a nice THIN bearing lube or something similar
I use the metal sheilded ceramics, and just clean them out in an ultrasonic jewellery cleaner I got from ALDI. No hassle about pulling sheilds on and off.
I think the lube you use on the bearings is good way to reduce drag on the drivetrain, use a nice THIN bearing lube or something similar
I use the metal sheilded ceramics, and just clean them out in an ultrasonic jewellery cleaner I got from ALDI. No hassle about pulling sheilds on and off.