R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-04-2012, 06:39 PM   #4036
Tech Fanatic
 
elee32's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: lambertville, nj
Posts: 788
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by danny250r View Post
hey can someone post the pros/cons of 50and 52 drives thanks
Check on pg 101-102 of the t312 thread. Basically says 52's for stability, 50's for more aggressive front end. I personally use the 50's, just be sure to check that the ends go far enough into the spool outdrives if you are running the front end wide
elee32 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2012, 11:32 AM   #4037
Tech Master
 
Meradin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,299
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

I have kinda a weird question and it is about mounting a body. I am using the suggested starting points in the manual and I am wondering what everyone else is using. I am using the Mazda Speed 6 body cut on the upper body lines if that makes sense.

I know that the wheel well cutouts are just a suggestion but looking at them got me thinking about this. When I mount up the body on the suggested starting points it sits high in the front. The front wheels have about 2.5mm clearance with the suggested wheel cutout points. The rears look about right, about 1mm clearance.

I could move the front body mounts down one hole but I have trouble already with the body rubbing on corners and I think this would make things worse. I could raise up the rear mounts but I want to keep the body as low as possible.

So, where does everyone have their body mounted?

Next, what about the cutouts? How big do you make them. i thought you wanted them just slightly larger than the wheels but when I did this the body got sucked up when I got hit or hit something.
__________________
Better than Randy, Adam said so!

Second thought...I don't trust Adams, they make up everything!

"Leave it to Steever", custom paint masks, decals, and paint.
Meradin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2012, 01:38 AM   #4038
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: NZ
Posts: 677
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
I have kinda a weird question and it is about mounting a body. .
One good idea is the 5th mounting post. Just screw an old rear post into the front shock tower, they are allready pre-drilled for it (mine were)
Makes the body a bit more rigid.
1101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2012, 03:16 PM   #4039
Tech Addict
 
kinga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 600
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
I have kinda a weird question and it is about mounting a body. I am using the suggested starting points in the manual and I am wondering what everyone else is using. I am using the Mazda Speed 6 body cut on the upper body lines if that makes sense.

I know that the wheel well cutouts are just a suggestion but looking at them got me thinking about this. When I mount up the body on the suggested starting points it sits high in the front. The front wheels have about 2.5mm clearance with the suggested wheel cutout points. The rears look about right, about 1mm clearance.

I could move the front body mounts down one hole but I have trouble already with the body rubbing on corners and I think this would make things worse. I could raise up the rear mounts but I want to keep the body as low as possible.

So, where does everyone have their body mounted?


Next, what about the cutouts? How big do you make them. i thought you wanted them just slightly larger than the wheels but when I did this the body got sucked up when I got hit or hit something.

I use mazda speed 6 or LTCR bodies, I find it best to keep them a little higher so you get the benefit of more plastic above the wheel arches and in the front splitter.
I initially cut my first body too low, THis causes the lexan to break easily.
Cut your wheel arches and trim the body so you have around 3-5mm vertical plastic above the whel arch and around 6-8mm of vertical front splitter.
Make the cutouts as big as need be so they dont get caught up in the wheels. You will need to keep trimming after a couple of runs to get the optimal size, I used to use the compass cutter but I dont have the patience for it and usually need to trim it out afterwards anyway, so good lexan body scissors and some shoe goo to finish off the shell and i am good
kinga is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2012, 07:33 AM   #4040
Tech Master
 
Meradin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,299
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

What is a vertical front splitter?
__________________
Better than Randy, Adam said so!

Second thought...I don't trust Adams, they make up everything!

"Leave it to Steever", custom paint masks, decals, and paint.
Meradin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2012, 04:39 AM   #4041
Tech Addict
 
kinga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 600
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
What is a vertical front splitter?
the bit between the ground and the horizontal part of the front splitter
kinga is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2012, 08:37 PM   #4042
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: victoria BC
Posts: 810
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys have a t3-11 ran it for part of last summer.

Our summer season fast approaching. just curious is there any up grades or anything i can do to make this car better before the season starts.(just in case we only race 12 scale here in the winter months.)

Oh I race on a prep'd asphalt track.

My T3 is pretty much stock all around got it in july and only raced it about 4 weeks. so really want to get the most of it. don't really wan to sell her and buy a 12. not my style.

thanks for any info. o
cyrrus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2012, 09:42 PM   #4043
Tech Elite
 
nerdling's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Canberra
Posts: 2,849
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrrus View Post
Hey guys have a t3-11 ran it for part of last summer.

Our summer season fast approaching. just curious is there any up grades or anything i can do to make this car better before the season starts.(just in case we only race 12 scale here in the winter months.)

Oh I race on a prep'd asphalt track.

My T3 is pretty much stock all around got it in july and only raced it about 4 weeks. so really want to get the most of it. don't really wan to sell her and buy a 12. not my style.

thanks for any info. o
The new upper systemsion links, rotate the servo 90deg (see previous pages on this thread) gear diff. Thoes are the major changes.
__________________
--XRAY--NOSRAM--PROTOFORM--MUCHMORE--
www.teamxray.com -- www.hudy.net -- www.hobbyexpress.com.au
nerdling is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2012, 10:56 AM   #4044
Tech Master
 
Meradin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,299
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Anyone have a stock t3'11 top deck they would like to get rid of?
__________________
Better than Randy, Adam said so!

Second thought...I don't trust Adams, they make up everything!

"Leave it to Steever", custom paint masks, decals, and paint.
Meradin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2012, 08:28 PM   #4045
Tech Elite
 
spring71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 3,933
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Smile

R1Wurks New XRAY Lightweight CVD Kits are available at TQ.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...t.asp?s_sort=3


FYI, Thanks.
__________________
TQ RC RACING
Indoor RC Race Track & Hobby Shop in Chino, CA
Online Shop
http://www.tqrcracing.com
[email protected]
spring71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2012, 09:21 PM   #4046
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: victoria BC
Posts: 810
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nerdling View Post
The new upper systemsion links, rotate the servo 90deg (see previous pages on this thread) gear diff. Thoes are the major changes.

thanks for the info.

one more question to anyone out there. The aftermarket kits like. exotek and vbc( i think) which is sold by CRC and the zeppin. are they really worth the money.



or can i just pick up a t3-12 Top and bottom plate and the other there would work too.
cyrrus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2012, 11:17 PM   #4047
Tech Master
 
Meradin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,299
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Okay, me again with a setup question. I am running basically the stock setup witht he exception of the 2012 bulkhead clamps in the middle position with 1mm shims on each. I want to lock in the rear a bit more to carry more corner speed into and around the bid sweepers.
__________________
Better than Randy, Adam said so!

Second thought...I don't trust Adams, they make up everything!

"Leave it to Steever", custom paint masks, decals, and paint.
Meradin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2012, 03:01 PM   #4048
Tech Addict
 
kinga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 600
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Good question, I find the rear of my car loose aswell. I was thinking of trying the new 2mm chassis to get more rear traction.
In my experience, if you lock in the rear, you usually reduce corner speed though.
I tried widening the rear track by 1mm, it it made it grip more, but was slower around the corner and hesitated mid corner.
kinga is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 12:53 AM   #4049
Tech Regular
 
mrjeremyaaron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Gold Coast, QLD
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nerdling View Post
The new upper systemsion links, rotate the servo 90deg (see previous pages on this thread) gear diff. Thoes are the major changes.
Hey does anyone have the part numbers for the upper suspension links and gear diff? I'm having 'fun' trying to find these on the Xray website.. then again maybe i'm just a bit simple with these things..
mrjeremyaaron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2012, 02:41 AM   #4050
Tech Elite
 
nerdling's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Canberra
Posts: 2,849
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjeremyaaron View Post
Hey does anyone have the part numbers for the upper suspension links and gear diff? I'm having 'fun' trying to find these on the Xray website.. then again maybe i'm just a bit simple with these things..
the clamps are 302028-o
8mm ball joints 302654
10mm ball joints 302655
ball ends 302661
ball ends (closed) 302665
gear diff kit 304900
__________________
--XRAY--NOSRAM--PROTOFORM--MUCHMORE--
www.teamxray.com -- www.hudy.net -- www.hobbyexpress.com.au
nerdling is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:29 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net