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Old 02-27-2012, 01:58 PM   #4021
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i need some help. am running on asphalt (i am in the tropics so its hot, track is low to medium grip, bumpy), am running losi 37.5 wt (F), losi 35 wt (R) with 2.8 (F) and 2.6 (R) springs. ride height is 5/5.5 (F/R), 1.5 deg camber all round. i tried to go higher wt oils but the car just pushes on power, should i compensate by running even softer springs? with the current setup its ok but towards the end of a 5-7 min run, the tires are heating up badly and it am losing grip especially in the in-field. i am running on sorex 36 with soft inserts, with front and rear xray gear diffs 300000/800 (F/R). rear wheelbase shorter by 2 mm.

i read in the xray forum that it is recommended to run low weight oils about 350 to get grip but i noticed with low viscosity oils in hot weather, after a few runs the shocks are too soft and car feels a little lazy. does running low wt oils also make the tires overheat? any way to get around the problem of overheating tires? i have already drilled extra holes in the wheels.
What are you're droop settings? The shorter wheelbase in the rear could be the cause of the onpower push since the front will lift more on power. I'd suggest you to run a longer wheelbase in the rear and check you're droop settings. Less droop in the front gives more onpower steering and lengthening the car in the rear too.
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:06 PM   #4022
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hi morgoth, thanks for the reply, i am running down stop of 5/4 (F/R). I ran the same setting with the standard wheelbase, but turn in was not as fast as shorter wheelbase. i even ran narrower front track but tires overheated faster. should i run shorter front camber link? would this give me a little better grip? i think keeping the rear camber link would be ok?
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Old 02-28-2012, 12:55 AM   #4023
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hi morgoth, thanks for the reply, i am running down stop of 5/4 (F/R). I ran the same setting with the standard wheelbase, but turn in was not as fast as shorter wheelbase. i even ran narrower front track but tires overheated faster. should i run shorter front camber link? would this give me a little better grip? i think keeping the rear camber link would be ok?
Are you using the 2012 clamps or the H/L blocks? The L blocks in the front give the most steering. I tried the short camberlink with the L blocks, but I found that I had less initial steering with it.
You could try a 2mm shim on the steeringblocks.
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Old 02-28-2012, 01:26 AM   #4024
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hi morgoth, no i am running the L roll center (F/R) that came with the 2011. yes, already running 2 mm under the steering arms, that helps. will give the short camber link a try and see if grip levels maintains whilst not over heating the tires. thanks.
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Old 02-28-2012, 02:56 AM   #4025
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where abouts are you racing? I race in Qld Australia, practically the tropics, we usually race in the evenenings in summer as tires just dont get traction during the hot summer days. Even at night track temps stay over 30 C until 9pm usually.
When track temps are over 50 degrees C, sorex 36 wont cut it, you might need to go to sorex 40 if u are racing in the day in summer. Also, when its really really hot dont goop the tires so much as it can make them a bit greasy
Also, you havent mentioned the track conditions, bumpy or smooth. We run 5mm ORH Droop to get the car to handle the bumps at our large bumpy outdoor asphalt track. Any less and the car just bottoms out. You need to be running on billiard table smooth tracks to run low droop.
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Old 02-29-2012, 12:58 AM   #4026
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i am in malaysia. i typically play during day time either in the morning before noon or after 3 pm, mid day is just too hot, but its good to do some shock oil setups as the shock oils are thinnest during the hottest hours so i know that that is the absolute thickest shock oil i should run. here it is common to run the the 36 sorex. some even run 32. now a few of us are trying out the ride tires, but i think sorex still better. i dont apply traction compound during testing, but if i have to, just use a bit of tire tweak thats more than enough. paragon fxII seems to make the tires overheat (maybe just my poor driving) more. this track is bumpy, i dont adjust the down stops based on ORH. is this going to be different than measuring based on downstop then adjust for ride height? if you have too much droop, doesnt the chassis rock back and forth more during acceleration and braking? if you dont mind, can you share your setup with me? thanks.
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Old 02-29-2012, 02:38 AM   #4027
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i am in malaysia. i typically play during day time either in the morning before noon or after 3 pm, mid day is just too hot, but its good to do some shock oil setups as the shock oils are thinnest during the hottest hours so i know that that is the absolute thickest shock oil i should run. here it is common to run the the 36 sorex. some even run 32. now a few of us are trying out the ride tires, but i think sorex still better. i dont apply traction compound during testing, but if i have to, just use a bit of tire tweak thats more than enough. paragon fxII seems to make the tires overheat (maybe just my poor driving) more. this track is bumpy, i dont adjust the down stops based on ORH. is this going to be different than measuring based on downstop then adjust for ride height? if you have too much droop, doesnt the chassis rock back and forth more during acceleration and braking? if you dont mind, can you share your setup with me? thanks.
I find the car never performs its best in the heat of summer after 10am and before 4pm.
I bascally run kit setup, springs, swaybars, roll centers, etc.
If the track is bumpy, try 2 or 3 measurement setting on the droop guage, that equates to around 5 or 6mm.
Also, go thicker in the shock oil, 450cst, this helps resist the car leaning around so much. Up your ride height to 5.5 front and 6 rear.
These things alone will help settle a car on a bumpy track i have found.
Only apply traction compound if you have time to wait for it to sink in the tires or have tire warmers to cook it in.
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Old 02-29-2012, 02:42 AM   #4028
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Can you buy the steering links from a 2012 to change the servo mount in the 2011? I dont want to drill holes etc in my current chassis/ steering links.?
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Old 02-29-2012, 05:00 PM   #4029
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need some help please,picking up a 2011 t3 that is running a ball diff in the rear and spool in the front.ill be running 17.5 blinky on a good sized paved track. the car still has the stock axles and nothing has been changed. now knowing that what would or should i start updating first.its been 12 years since i raced onroad and could use some help.also when i go on certain sights for parts i see some saying eu so if you could help with parts numbers id appreciate it. thanks in advance,mike
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Old 02-29-2012, 05:25 PM   #4030
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need some help please,picking up a 2011 t3 that is running a ball diff in the rear and spool in the front.ill be running 17.5 blinky on a good sized paved track. the car still has the stock axles and nothing has been changed. now knowing that what would or should i start updating first.its been 12 years since i raced onroad and could use some help.also when i go on certain sights for parts i see some saying eu so if you could help with parts numbers id appreciate it. thanks in advance,mike
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U.S. was the foam kits and Eu was the rubber chassis. They no longer make the U.S. chassis so all are Eu now. I would suggest some hardened spool outdrives right away as the stock plastic ones break. For the front I would upgrade to the ecs (double joint) shafts to improve steering and to reduce chatter. I always carry extra shock bladders as well. Good luck!
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Old 02-29-2012, 05:27 PM   #4031
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Can you buy the steering links from a 2012 to change the servo mount in the 2011? I dont want to drill holes etc in my current chassis/ steering links.?
Really all you need is some longer ball studs and some spacers and some shoe goo! That's it!
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Old 02-29-2012, 06:41 PM   #4032
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Ran my 11 with the servo shoe goo'd down in the new position with the 12 upper deck. i was quite pleased. My tc6 was more completive the my 11 was before the mod, but now with new parts(to resemble a 12), it might be a close battle. didn't get a chance to race back to back due to lack of electronics that a borrowed from the TC6 for my buggy.
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:50 PM   #4033
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How do u guys mount the carvers?
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:18 AM   #4034
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How do u guys mount the carvers?
???? What are carvers?
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Old 03-04-2012, 03:39 PM   #4035
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hey can someone post the pros/cons of 50and 52 drives thanks
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