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Old 02-22-2012, 05:36 PM   #4006
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Yes they do, seem to be having a hard time keeping them from staying where they should. From time to time or when big impact happens they come out enough to bind the steering... anyone know of a solution, is there a bevelled pin option for this???

However, I have checked thoroughly though and this is not the cause of the bad vibes

I'll look into getting some of the ECS shafts as recommended above.
TOP to a sleeve that goes over the out side of the CVD and holds the pin in place. Xray do a 'v2' pin that has a flat spot, or you could use a dremal a flatspot on to the ones you have.

I would check that the drive shafts are moving through their entire range of motion freely. If a pin has slipped out part way and you have kept running this can cause some damage to the CV that causes it to bind when you put it back togeather properly. This type of damage is easy fixed with a small file.

is there any obstruction in the outdrives/drive cups that could jam the drive shaft?
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Old 02-22-2012, 07:06 PM   #4007
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TOP to a sleeve that goes over the out side of the CVD and holds the pin in place. Xray do a 'v2' pin that has a flat spot, or you could use a dremal a flatspot on to the ones you have.

I would check that the drive shafts are moving through their entire range of motion freely. If a pin has slipped out part way and you have kept running this can cause some damage to the CV that causes it to bind when you put it back togeather properly. This type of damage is easy fixed with a small file.

is there any obstruction in the outdrives/drive cups that could jam the drive shaft?

No obstruction that I can see, but I'll take it apart tonight and have another good look. Hopefully pick up the v2 pins before the weekend if anyone locally has them in stock.

The CV did cop a small amount of damage the first time it happened but managed to clean this up with my wife's nail file no probs at all - an essential component in any tool box.
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:26 PM   #4008
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New Spec-R parts for T3 have arrived at TQ.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...3&p_keyword=t3

T3 parts Store http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/parts.asp?parts_p_id=654



FYI, Thanks.
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Last edited by spring71; 02-22-2012 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:04 AM   #4009
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Hey all you Xray drivers, get your votes in on this one...

VOTE HERE. VOTE NOW!
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:59 AM   #4010
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Hey all you Xray drivers, get your votes in on this one...
Nobody gives a rats azz.....stop spamming the boards!
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Old 02-23-2012, 02:51 PM   #4011
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No obstruction that I can see, but I'll take it apart tonight and have another good look. Hopefully pick up the v2 pins before the weekend if anyone locally has them in stock.

The CV did cop a small amount of damage the first time it happened but managed to clean this up with my wife's nail file no probs at all - an essential component in any tool box.
LOL... good luck.
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Old 02-23-2012, 02:55 PM   #4012
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Nobody gives a rats azz.....stop spamming the boards!
+1
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:22 PM   #4013
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:39 PM   #4014
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Default rim rubbing

just wanting to know if anyone else has had this problem..

when i first built the car the inside of the rims would rub slightly on the top of the camber link nut. only slightly, but when cornering enough to wear a bevel in the inside of the rim (using muchmore 32's). so, i used some 1mm shims on the outside of the hex adaptors, which gave the additional wheelbase width required for clearance.

has anyone else needed to do this or do their rims clear the camber link fine..?

using 2011 manual set-up, which shows using a 1mm shim under the camber arm bolt. should i try getting rid of this - and if so what would it do to the cars handling..?

up until now its never been a problem, but as i get a bit better at driving i'm looking for extra lateral traction which is noticeably down on other cars on the track. definitely not a quick, responsive car in the steering, front wheels feel like they are sliding around, being pushed alot. then, will suddenly grip when corner speed drops to a certain point.

thanks in advance..
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:47 PM   #4015
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Originally Posted by mrjeremyaaron View Post
just wanting to know if anyone else has had this problem..

when i first built the car the inside of the rims would rub slightly on the top of the camber link nut. only slightly, but when cornering enough to wear a bevel in the inside of the rim (using muchmore 32's). so, i used some 1mm shims on the outside of the hex adaptors, which gave the additional wheelbase width required for clearance.

has anyone else needed to do this or do their rims clear the camber link fine..?

using 2011 manual set-up, which shows using a 1mm shim under the camber arm bolt. should i try getting rid of this - and if so what would it do to the cars handling..?

up until now its never been a problem, but as i get a bit better at driving i'm looking for extra lateral traction which is noticeably down on other cars on the track. definitely not a quick, responsive car in the steering, front wheels feel like they are sliding around, being pushed alot. then, will suddenly grip when corner speed drops to a certain point.

thanks in advance..
I switched to another style of Xray ball ends that helped a lot! I will try to find the part#. I also run the +75 hexes in the front and -75 hexes in the rear.
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Old 02-24-2012, 05:13 PM   #4016
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I switched to another style of Xray ball ends that helped a lot! I will try to find the part#. I also run the +75 hexes in the front and -75 hexes in the rear.

What does widening front / narrowing rear do to handling? Also are those hexes an X-ray or aftermarket part..
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Old 02-24-2012, 05:19 PM   #4017
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What does widening front / narrowing rear do to handling? Also are those hexes an X-ray or aftermarket part..
Xray parts

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...l-Hub-2-T2-008

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...l-Hub-2-T2-008
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:01 PM   #4018
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Originally Posted by mrjeremyaaron View Post
just wanting to know if anyone else has had this problem..

when i first built the car the inside of the rims would rub slightly on the top of the camber link nut. only slightly, but when cornering enough to wear a bevel in the inside of the rim (using muchmore 32's). so, i used some 1mm shims on the outside of the hex adaptors, which gave the additional wheelbase width required for clearance.

has anyone else needed to do this or do their rims clear the camber link fine..?

using 2011 manual set-up, which shows using a 1mm shim under the camber arm bolt. should i try getting rid of this - and if so what would it do to the cars handling..?

up until now its never been a problem, but as i get a bit better at driving i'm looking for extra lateral traction which is noticeably down on other cars on the track. definitely not a quick, responsive car in the steering, front wheels feel like they are sliding around, being pushed alot. then, will suddenly grip when corner speed drops to a certain point.

thanks in advance..
Depends on the rims you use. I find sweep rims rub, but sorex/schumacher, yokomo dont. You might need to try different rims. Otherwise just drop to.5mm spacer on the top of the front upright, 3.5mm on top of the rear has been enough to clear most troublesome rims
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:05 PM   #4019
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Yes they do, seem to be having a hard time keeping them from staying where they should. From time to time or when big impact happens they come out enough to bind the steering... anyone know of a solution, is there a bevelled pin option for this???

However, I have checked thoroughly though and this is not the cause of the bad vibes

I'll look into getting some of the ECS shafts as recommended above.
Heat shrink around the CVs is a common way to stop the pins coming out. I always do mine and have pulled them out for service and found the pin loose but the heatshrink holds them in place. Not as big a problem with the flat spot pins or the ECS shafts but I do all mine anyway, lost too many races due to pins coming loose.
Those spec r shafts with the c clip that holds the pin in instead of grub screws are garbage too, dont even bother with them I have had three fail after a crash now and chucked them in the bin, the c clip comes loose in a crash and catches in the hub jamming the shaft. They are too wide to heatshrink with the sclip on also.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:00 AM   #4020
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i need some help. am running on asphalt (i am in the tropics so its hot, track is low to medium grip, bumpy), am running losi 37.5 wt (F), losi 35 wt (R) with 2.8 (F) and 2.6 (R) springs. ride height is 5/5.5 (F/R), 1.5 deg camber all round. i tried to go higher wt oils but the car just pushes on power, should i compensate by running even softer springs? with the current setup its ok but towards the end of a 5-7 min run, the tires are heating up badly and it am losing grip especially in the in-field. i am running on sorex 36 with soft inserts, with front and rear xray gear diffs 300000/800 (F/R). rear wheelbase shorter by 2 mm.

i read in the xray forum that it is recommended to run low weight oils about 350 to get grip but i noticed with low viscosity oils in hot weather, after a few runs the shocks are too soft and car feels a little lazy. does running low wt oils also make the tires overheat? any way to get around the problem of overheating tires? i have already drilled extra holes in the wheels.
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