rc-goods

Zero Force Xray T3 2011 2.0mm Carbon Upper Deck (ZF-XT-301192)



www.rcgoods.com

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

So I have been progressing nice in my driving skills and the new layout at the track has me a little stumped. My car has become, what others describe as being, "assey". Out of the corners the rear seems to be pretty sensitive. I think it is kinda that way in all situations myself. Just looking for more of a locked in feel on the rear.

1 degree front
2 degree rear
5mm ride height F/R
4mm Caster
Middle suspension holders
1mm spacer on upper link front
4mm spacer on upper link rear
middle hole on clamp f/r no spacer
1mm acerman spacer
35 weight oil f/r
2mm droop over ride height f/r

nitrobeast

iTrader: (45)

This is what i would try.
Move rear wheel base back if not already.
Lower rear rc.
2.5 front droop over ride height.

morgoth

Are you using the motormount screws in the topdeck? Try the car without those screws. I could drive my car with them in it.

My settings are almost the same, but I have modded my chassis and I'm using a 2012 topdeck. My car was dialed yesterday.
Maybe you can cut the rear of you're topdeck. I still have my 2011 topdeck, but I haven't had the time to test them back to back. Since my car was so dialed, I didn't bother to try it.
I drove on that track where the race was 2 months ago and did setup of my car with the normal 2011 chassis and topdeck. The car was good but a little too twichy. I modded my chassis last month and changed the topdeck. Drove again with it yesterday for the first time (had exams in december and january) and it was a lot better. The car was more predictable and less twitchy/nervous with the same setup.

morgoth

Nope, you have to turn the servo to use the 2012 top deck, but you can use the 2011 topdeck with the both servo configurations.

Skiddins

Yesterday I ran middle holes on clamp, with 1.5mm shims.
1.5mm on front upper link and 4.5 on rear upper link.
It was certainly better through the chicane.
Might also be worth trying removing the 1mm ackermann spacer to smooth things out.

bmcallister

iTrader: (23)

What is the modded chassis?

markiemark

iTrader: (23)

id love to get my chassis modded any one wanna make a few bucks?

morgoth

A chassis modded with a dremel

wwddww34

iTrader: (9)

Hey all you Xray T3 '11 racers, have you signed up to race your T3 in the Sedan Classes at the 2012 ROAR Carpet Nationals coming up on March 16? Hurry up and register before time runs out! Click here to get signed up.

Click HERE to see a countdown to the 2012 ROAR Carpet Nationals.

kinga

iTrader: (15)

Why so many spacers on the inner rear link? Kit is 1mm i believe. Try removing shims on the outside of the rear upper link to lower the roll center instead, might be more effective.
Also, with only 35 wt oil and 5mm ride height the chassis maybe rolling too much and bottoming out in the rear causing you to break loose, try 5.5 mm ride height, and up your droop to 3mm ORH.

Skiddins

Maybe it wasn't quite clear, the 4.5mm is on the outer rear upright, 1.5mm on the upper clamps. It did help it through the chicane and is supposed to hel with corner speed as well.

kinga

iTrader: (15)

Haha I was thinking that after I posted, not like you skiddins to make rookie setup mistakes! 4.5 sounds about right, I am running 3mm on the outer rear uprights and it locks the rear in nicely

Skiddins

... Unlike my driving

When I raised the rear links I was half expecting the rear to become a bit loose, but strangely it was still pretty planted and improved the chicane.

The more I learn about setup, the less I know

Skiddins

kinga

iTrader: (15)

I busted the outdrive on my front spool yesterday, just wondering if there are any cheaper options than spending 35 on a new whole spool and bearing assembly when I just need the plastic outdrive. The xray part number seems to encompass the whole spool and bearings assembly with no individual part number for the outdrives