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Xray T3 2011

Old 01-05-2012, 03:44 AM
  #3901  
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Originally Posted by Suteki View Post
Has anyone tried installing a Futaba BLS551 servo on the 2011 model and have any problems? Purchased my car second hand and it didn't have the 25 tooth adapter for a Futaba servo so I purchased a generic servo saver that is roughly similar.

I'm finding the servo saver won't fit between the gap in the top deck and is instead sitting under it. I managed to shave the top part of the servo saver off but its left less than a mm of plastic for the screw to go into.

Have an xray servo saver on the way but I'm not convinced it's going to fit out far enough to clear one side of the top deck either. I can put some spacers on the servo posts to push the servo further inward but it's very nearly hitting the steering posts as is.

I'll have to take a picture to better explain my problem.
Sounds like you need to use the small spacers to move the servo further inboard, so the servo save fits into the gap in-between the two sides of the top deck.
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Old 01-05-2012, 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Sounds like you need to use the small spacers to move the servo further inboard, so the servo save fits into the gap in-between the two sides of the top deck.
Yeh I'm just concerned that I won't be able to move it inboard enough without the servo hitting the actual steering columns. I need get a pic of it, also maybe I should just wait till this part comes in so I can really see what sort of space I have to work with.
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Old 01-05-2012, 05:37 AM
  #3903  
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Turn it and shoo goo it down.

Originally Posted by Suteki View Post
Has anyone tried installing a Futaba BLS551 servo on the 2011 model and have any problems? Purchased my car second hand and it didn't have the 25 tooth adapter for a Futaba servo so I purchased a generic servo saver that is roughly similar.

I'm finding the servo saver won't fit between the gap in the top deck and is instead sitting under it. I managed to shave the top part of the servo saver off but its left less than a mm of plastic for the screw to go into.

Have an xray servo saver on the way but I'm not convinced it's going to fit out far enough to clear one side of the top deck either. I can put some spacers on the servo posts to push the servo further inward but it's very nearly hitting the steering posts as is.

I'll have to take a picture to better explain my problem.
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Old 01-05-2012, 01:17 PM
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can any one tell me what parts i would need and part numbers to put the servo on my 2011 t3 in the t3 2012 position.
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by T3_PASSION View Post
can any one tell me what parts i would need and part numbers to put the servo on my 2011 t3 in the t3 2012 position.
Shoe goo and a couple of the 4.9 x 8 ball studs and some shims is all I used!
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Old 01-05-2012, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by T3_PASSION View Post
can any one tell me what parts i would need and part numbers to put the servo on my 2011 t3 in the t3 2012 position.
Have search through this thread mate, it has been explained a few times and there are pics and a few different methods.
Here is my method
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...011-a-190.html

You basically only need a slightly longer turnbuckle (5mm longer than stock from memory) , all the other parts you already have if you have servo and servo posts.

Last edited by kinga; 01-05-2012 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 01-15-2012, 11:18 PM
  #3907  
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Default nosram pure evo 17.5 motor

i am running an xray t3 and was wondering if anyone knows what FDR i should run with nosram 17.5 timed
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Old 01-16-2012, 12:59 AM
  #3908  
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Is that with speedy timing? Probly around 5.5 to 6.5 depending on the track and your timing settings. 4 is around what I run untimed.
Your manual for the motor will give you some indication too
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Old 01-18-2012, 12:58 AM
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Hi all,

picked up an 11 spec t3 - my first on road car and have almost completed the build.. unfortunately i have just realised that the grub screws int he arms, the poke through to the chassis, are upside down...

is there a quick way of getting to these without taking hte whole thing apart????

Also, i'm in need of some gearing advise, looking to run a 21.5 with blinky speedy. any suggestion on where to start?


Thanks in advance...
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Old 01-18-2012, 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by mrjeremyaaron View Post
Hi all,

picked up an 11 spec t3 - my first on road car and have almost completed the build.. unfortunately i have just realised that the grub screws int he arms, the poke through to the chassis, are upside down...

is there a quick way of getting to these without taking hte whole thing apart????

Also, i'm in need of some gearing advise, looking to run a 21.5 with blinky speedy. any suggestion on where to start?


Thanks in advance...
who assembled it??

Just remove the lower susp mount screws nearest the droop screw and you should be able to get to them out without too much hassle.

IIRC the guys gear at around 3.5 for 21.5 blinky
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Old 01-18-2012, 02:32 AM
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
who assembled it??

Just remove the lower susp mount screws nearest the droop screw and you should be able to get to them out without too much hassle.

IIRC the guys gear at around 3.5 for 21.5 blinky

Awesome, thanks Craig.
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Old 01-21-2012, 04:21 AM
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http://vbcracing.com/t32fvbc.html#

looks funky.....
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:30 AM
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You guys might remember I was asking for advice a few weeks ago about setups regarding my car being loose off/on power.
After rebuilding the car to kit setup the car was horrible, after the first race meet recently I was talking to a few of the local old hands, all of whom recommended more droop.
After setting the car back to 5mm front and 5mm rear Over ride height droop and 5.5 mm front and 6mm rear ride height, the car was finally handling well. And I was on pace again finally.
It is a bumpy large outdoor tarmac track. no other changes were made to the kit setup other than this
My adivce is to listen to the locals, as I was told by many on the internet that this much droop would make the car handle poorly. Not so, it turns out you need this much droop to handle a bumpy track.
My question is, when people list 6 and 5 droop settings, are you talking about ORH droop or droop set on the droop blocks.
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Old 01-24-2012, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
You guys might remember I was asking for advice a few weeks ago about setups regarding my car being loose off/on power.
After rebuilding the car to kit setup the car was horrible, after the first race meet recently I was talking to a few of the local old hands, all of whom recommended more droop.
After setting the car back to 5mm front and 5mm rear Over ride height droop and 5.5 mm front and 6mm rear ride height, the car was finally handling well. And I was on pace again finally.
It is a bumpy large outdoor tarmac track. no other changes were made to the kit setup other than this
My adivce is to listen to the locals, as I was told by many on the internet that this much droop would make the car handle poorly. Not so, it turns out you need this much droop to handle a bumpy track.
My question is, when people list 6 and 5 droop settings, are you talking about ORH droop or droop set on the droop blocks.
6/5 is often downstop measured with the car on the blocks - not ORH.
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
who assembled it??

Just remove the lower susp mount screws nearest the droop screw and you should be able to get to them out without too much hassle.

IIRC the guys gear at around 3.5 for 21.5 blinky

when you refer to 3.5, does this mean 24 pinion / 84 spur, or do you also need to take the internal drive ratio into account to arrive at this figure?

reason being that I bought a 44 pinion and 74 spur today thinking that this would be close (by my calculations FDR of around 3.2) only to to find that they don't fit into the chassis together without fairly serious modifications taking place...
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