R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-20-2011, 09:35 PM   #3886
Tech Elite
 
nerdling's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Canberra
Posts: 2,849
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
Have you tried sanding the bottom of the setscrews? It have a setscrew comming lose on my 1/8 e-buggy until I sanded the setscrew with a medium grid sandpaper. The surface should be rough and this will it grip better on the pins. And you might try to sand the flatspot also a little.
There was a discussion of the XRAY website about CVD rebuilds, one of the team drviers indicated that he replaced the grub screw every rebuild and he did not have issues.
__________________
--XRAY--NOSRAM--PROTOFORM--MUCHMORE--
www.teamxray.com -- www.hudy.net -- www.hobbyexpress.com.au
nerdling is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2011, 10:46 PM   #3887
Tech Addict
 
kinga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 600
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nerdling View Post
There was a discussion of the XRAY website about CVD rebuilds, one of the team drviers indicated that he replaced the grub screw every rebuild and he did not have issues.
I think the best tip I have ever heard with regard to building CVDs, and goes for anything you use loctite on, is to make sure everything is squeaky clean before you apply the loctite, then once applied, leave it for 24 hours. This lets the loctite actually set. You cant rebuild CVDs on race day and expect the loctite to set and hold, rebuild the night before. Then Cover with heat shrink.
This has worked for me with many sets of CVDs, the normal ones and both xray original and aftermarket ECS shafts.
kinga is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2011, 11:47 PM   #3888
Tech Elite
 
redron123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,624
Trader Rating: 87 (99%+)
Default

I was told to drill my shock caps so they will bleed better and perform better as well. Where exactly do i need to drill and how big of a hole?
__________________
check it out ----> www.ddatvinc.weebly.com D & D ATV PARTS INC.
redron123 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2011, 12:19 AM   #3889
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 421
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by redron123 View Post
I was told to drill my shock caps so they will bleed better and perform better as well. Where exactly do i need to drill and how big of a hole?
There is a hole already marked out on the plastic cap, just use the smallest drill bit you can, the idea of it is to make sure there is an air gap between the bladder and the cap.
Mb3195 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2011, 05:10 AM   #3890
Tech Elite
 
haywood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,807
Trader Rating: 49 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by redron123 View Post
I was told to drill my shock caps so they will bleed better and perform better as well. Where exactly do i need to drill and how big of a hole?
1mm
__________________
Calandra Racing Concepts/ Hobbywing / Team Scream / Progressive Rc / Ko Propo / MotivRc / Dri-Fit Mafia /
haywood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2011, 05:38 AM   #3891
Tech Elite
 
nitrobeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colonia, NJ
Posts: 2,340
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by haywood View Post
When doing maintenance (after about two or three race days) I disassemble and clean and reassemble with hudy grease and loctite the set screws in place and then heat shrink the joint. No matter what I do it always seems like the set screws are loose whenever I do take them apart. I always make sure the set screw is hitting the flat spot on the pin also. These ecs shafts have caused me several headaches before I got smart and heatshrinked the joint to keep the small parts in place and not all over the track! Am I missing something? Thanks

Take them apart and clean everything really good. Put it back together apply loctite and let it set. Then apply grease and never take it apart again. You can use a zacco blade tip to get the grease in the cup.
__________________
Rui Goncalves
Team CRC|Awesomatix USA|TQ Wire|
Jackson curbs, ready for lift off!
nitrobeast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2011, 08:08 AM   #3892
Tech Elite
 
M-Technic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 2,562
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kinga View Post
I am runnin 3 degrees of toe in at the moment, I will reset the droop to 3 front and rear. One of the local guys was telling me he runs something like 9mm ORH front and 7mm ORH rear droop.
- The track we run on is very bumpy, even with 5.5 it scrubs and bottoms alot.
- I tried the front lower inner L1/L2 positions, didnt have a whole lot of effect, was still erratic. Putting anymore spacers on top of the camber link just makes the wheel rub on the screw
- I will try 450cst front and 350cst rear on the shocks maybe
- cant run 52mm drive shafts in the rear with the xray gear diff. XRAY lie when they say you can, you cant, I have tried and everyone at our club has tried. Unless you cut down the blades or shim the arms out, at 3 degrees rear toe in 52mm doesnt fit.
- Tried the -75 rear roll center holders. Fixes the traction and locks the rear, but then the car runs REALLY SLOWLY though the corners and loses corner speed compared to the normal ones. I will try the other suggestions first.

I suspect it is the droop setting combined with the front diff, as it wasnt doing it with front spool before
That is fine, go to 5.5mm or 6mm ride height all the way around. I run 52mm shafts with an Xray gear diff, 3* of toe, and 2* of camber. I wonder why yours is binding.

That much droop over ride height... I don't even think that is possible to achieve unless you greatly lengthen the shocks. Maybe if you are running in very low traction, you might try over 3mm, but you should experiment with 2-3mm of droop to see if it helps your erratic problem.

Also, if the -0.75mm roll centers locked the rear in too much, you can do that and then try some things to help loosen the rear or add more steering. You could add 1-2mm extra shims on the camberl ink, outside rear hub. Switch to a 2.8 rear spring (stiffer) if you have enough traction overall, or switch to a 2.8 front spring (softer) if you need more traction overall. It sounds that something like this might be your solution.
__________________
RCAmerica | Xray | Hudy | Radiopost | Speed Passion USA | Trinity | P3 Graphics
M-Technic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2011, 11:55 AM   #3893
Tech Champion
 
RC MARKET's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: HK
Posts: 6,172
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

XRAY Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapter
Attached Thumbnails
Xray T3 2011-xr-305137.jpg  
RC MARKET is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 05:02 AM   #3894
Tech Initiate
 
hosko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 46
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I got my T3 11 second hand and I'm sure its not setup correctly, it doesn't handle anywhere near as good as my brothers T2. Does anybody have a link to setup sheet for a T3 11 thats stock or a basic setup.

Cheers,
__________________
X-Ray T3 | Hobbywing | Speed Passion | Futaba | Spektrum | PROTOform
Savage X Extended LCG Brushless | Hobbywing combo | Hitec | Spektrum
hosko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 06:03 AM   #3895
Regional Moderator
 
CarbonJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,661
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hosko View Post
I got my T3 11 second hand and I'm sure its not setup correctly, it doesn't handle anywhere near as good as my brothers T2. Does anybody have a link to setup sheet for a T3 11 thats stock or a basic setup.

Cheers,
Did you look here?
http://forum.teamxray.com/xsheets.php

If you have the Instruction Manual, that is the kit "setup". Lots of downloads available for the T3 2011 on Xray's site.

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...202011%20Specs
__________________
*** The Gate - Celebrating 8 years at the same location ***
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. - Albert Einstein
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
CarbonJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2011, 09:59 AM   #3896
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: St Louis
Posts: 7,868
Trader Rating: 198 (100%+)
Default

If anyone is interested I have a set of Tamiya shocks set up for the T2-T3 listed here.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post10074099
__________________
Please become an organ donor.
www.donatelife.net
Custom decals and Sno-Tee'z, T-Shirts by Sno Camel
dodgeguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2011, 05:59 PM   #3897
Tech Elite
 
spring71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 3,933
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Smile

T3 Xray parts are re-stocked at TQ, Click Here

Please, visit T3 Parts Store.



FYI, thanks and Merry Christmas.
__________________
TQ RC RACING
Indoor RC Race Track & Hobby Shop in Chino, CA
Online Shop
http://www.tqrcracing.com
[email protected]
spring71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2011, 04:18 AM   #3898
Tech Addict
 
kinga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 600
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by spring71 View Post
T3 Xray parts are re-stocked at TQ, Click Here

Please, visit T3 Parts Store.



FYI, thanks and Merry Christmas.
Do you guys ship outside the US yet? Last time I looked you didnt ship to Australia
kinga is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2011, 09:04 PM   #3899
Tech Elite
 
spring71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 3,933
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by kinga View Post
Do you guys ship outside the US yet? Last time I looked you didnt ship to Australia
Yes, we do the international shipping.

Shipping cost start from $4.99 to International, $2.99 to US depends on the shipping weight.

Thanks.
__________________
TQ RC RACING
Indoor RC Race Track & Hobby Shop in Chino, CA
Online Shop
http://www.tqrcracing.com
[email protected]

Last edited by spring71; 12-27-2011 at 11:59 AM.
spring71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2012, 03:36 AM   #3900
Tech Regular
 
Suteki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Toowoomba AUS
Posts: 478
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Has anyone tried installing a Futaba BLS551 servo on the 2011 model and have any problems? Purchased my car second hand and it didn't have the 25 tooth adapter for a Futaba servo so I purchased a generic servo saver that is roughly similar.

I'm finding the servo saver won't fit between the gap in the top deck and is instead sitting under it. I managed to shave the top part of the servo saver off but its left less than a mm of plastic for the screw to go into.

Have an xray servo saver on the way but I'm not convinced it's going to fit out far enough to clear one side of the top deck either. I can put some spacers on the servo posts to push the servo further inward but it's very nearly hitting the steering posts as is.

I'll have to take a picture to better explain my problem.
Suteki is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:02 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net