Xray T3 2011
#3872
I drive without the 2 screws in the motormount, but I have seen guys with 2 screws in the mountmount and 2 screws in the most rear holes of the bulkhead. I haven't tried adding or removing more screws. I'll try that next time.
Did you use a 2012 chassis to mark the bigger cuts in the chassis and then just dremel the chassis?
Did you use a 2012 chassis to mark the bigger cuts in the chassis and then just dremel the chassis?
#3873
Tech Regular
#3875
I called a friend and I can use his car tomorrow! Gonna mask my chassis with painting tape and draw the contour of the 2012 on it.
#3876
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
Ecs shafts
When doing maintenance (after about two or three race days) I disassemble and clean and reassemble with hudy grease and loctite the set screws in place and then heat shrink the joint. No matter what I do it always seems like the set screws are loose whenever I do take them apart. I always make sure the set screw is hitting the flat spot on the pin also. These ecs shafts have caused me several headaches before I got smart and heatshrinked the joint to keep the small parts in place and not all over the track! Am I missing something? Thanks
#3877
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
When doing maintenance (after about two or three race days) I disassemble and clean and reassemble with hudy grease and loctite the set screws in place and then heat shrink the joint. No matter what I do it always seems like the set screws are loose whenever I do take them apart. I always make sure the set screw is hitting the flat spot on the pin also. These ecs shafts have caused me several headaches before I got smart and heatshrinked the joint to keep the small parts in place and not all over the track! Am I missing something? Thanks
#3878
When doing maintenance (after about two or three race days) I disassemble and clean and reassemble with hudy grease and loctite the set screws in place and then heat shrink the joint. No matter what I do it always seems like the set screws are loose whenever I do take them apart. I always make sure the set screw is hitting the flat spot on the pin also. These ecs shafts have caused me several headaches before I got smart and heatshrinked the joint to keep the small parts in place and not all over the track! Am I missing something? Thanks
#3879
Bit of help required, I followed my own advice, after alot of mucking around with settings recently I went back to Kit settings.
I have found the car reacts very well and has good steering but is loose off and on power.
My setup is here
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
The only things I can see different is I am running front diff with 500k cst oil and cut top deck. Droop settings are in mm O.R.H.
Not sure what I am missing. I have an uncut top deck to try, but I thought the cut top deck was supposed to imrove rear traction.
Tried two sets of known good tyres. It has been so long since I ran even close to kit setup but was very happy with the amount of steering and front end accuracy, just need to tighten up the rear
I have found the car reacts very well and has good steering but is loose off and on power.
My setup is here
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
The only things I can see different is I am running front diff with 500k cst oil and cut top deck. Droop settings are in mm O.R.H.
Not sure what I am missing. I have an uncut top deck to try, but I thought the cut top deck was supposed to imrove rear traction.
Tried two sets of known good tyres. It has been so long since I ran even close to kit setup but was very happy with the amount of steering and front end accuracy, just need to tighten up the rear
#3880
Bit of help required, I followed my own advice, after alot of mucking around with settings recently I went back to Kit settings.
I have found the car reacts very well and has good steering but is loose off and on power.
My setup is here
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
The only things I can see different is I am running front diff with 500k cst oil and cut top deck. Droop settings are in mm O.R.H.
Not sure what I am missing. I have an uncut top deck to try, but I thought the cut top deck was supposed to imrove rear traction.
Tried two sets of known good tyres. It has been so long since I ran even close to kit setup but was very happy with the amount of steering and front end accuracy, just need to tighten up the rear
I have found the car reacts very well and has good steering but is loose off and on power.
My setup is here
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
The only things I can see different is I am running front diff with 500k cst oil and cut top deck. Droop settings are in mm O.R.H.
Not sure what I am missing. I have an uncut top deck to try, but I thought the cut top deck was supposed to imrove rear traction.
Tried two sets of known good tyres. It has been so long since I ran even close to kit setup but was very happy with the amount of steering and front end accuracy, just need to tighten up the rear
And maybe try a softer oil in the rear like 400 or 350 and lower the ride height in the rear to about 5mm - 5.2mm. I found that my car was too lose when my ride height in the rear was 0.3mm higher than the front.
#3881
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
Bit of help required, I followed my own advice, after alot of mucking around with settings recently I went back to Kit settings.
I have found the car reacts very well and has good steering but is loose off and on power.
My setup is here
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
The only things I can see different is I am running front diff with 500k cst oil and cut top deck. Droop settings are in mm O.R.H.
Not sure what I am missing. I have an uncut top deck to try, but I thought the cut top deck was supposed to imrove rear traction.
Tried two sets of known good tyres. It has been so long since I ran even close to kit setup but was very happy with the amount of steering and front end accuracy, just need to tighten up the rear
I have found the car reacts very well and has good steering but is loose off and on power.
My setup is here
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
The only things I can see different is I am running front diff with 500k cst oil and cut top deck. Droop settings are in mm O.R.H.
Not sure what I am missing. I have an uncut top deck to try, but I thought the cut top deck was supposed to imrove rear traction.
Tried two sets of known good tyres. It has been so long since I ran even close to kit setup but was very happy with the amount of steering and front end accuracy, just need to tighten up the rear
#3882
Bit of help required, I followed my own advice, after alot of mucking around with settings recently I went back to Kit settings.
I have found the car reacts very well and has good steering but is loose off and on power.
My setup is here
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
The only things I can see different is I am running front diff with 500k cst oil and cut top deck. Droop settings are in mm O.R.H.
Not sure what I am missing. I have an uncut top deck to try, but I thought the cut top deck was supposed to imrove rear traction.
Tried two sets of known good tyres. It has been so long since I ran even close to kit setup but was very happy with the amount of steering and front end accuracy, just need to tighten up the rear
I have found the car reacts very well and has good steering but is loose off and on power.
My setup is here
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
The only things I can see different is I am running front diff with 500k cst oil and cut top deck. Droop settings are in mm O.R.H.
Not sure what I am missing. I have an uncut top deck to try, but I thought the cut top deck was supposed to imrove rear traction.
Tried two sets of known good tyres. It has been so long since I ran even close to kit setup but was very happy with the amount of steering and front end accuracy, just need to tighten up the rear
#3883
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Have you tried 1° of front camber? I haven't tested much with my 2011 yet (drove it 3 times), but I did some setup on my mates Mi1 that was oversteering and after setting the front with 1° of camber and the rear with 2° of camber it was a lot better. Don't about the xray, but I think it's worth trying it.
And maybe try a softer oil in the rear like 400 or 350 and lower the ride height in the rear to about 5mm - 5.2mm. I found that my car was too lose when my ride height in the rear was 0.3mm higher than the front.
And maybe try a softer oil in the rear like 400 or 350 and lower the ride height in the rear to about 5mm - 5.2mm. I found that my car was too lose when my ride height in the rear was 0.3mm higher than the front.
#3884
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
kinga, without knowing what type of track or how much traction you race on, I have some ideas for you to try. First, you said your droop settings are over ride height. 6mm front and 5mm rear is A LOT of droop and can cause the car to behave erratically. I would stay within the realm of 1.5-3.5mm over ride height most of the time. Here are some ideas to try:
-level out the ride height to 5mm all around, or if your track is bumpy, 5.5mm all the way around
-move your front L1/L2 holders to the lower/inner position and/or add more shims to the outside of the camber link, to take some bite away from the front end
-lean the rear shock in all the way. I basically always ran my T3'11 with the rear shock all the way in
-open the rear shock piston to 4 hole or go with slightly softer oil
-go back to 52mm shafts all the way around as they make more traction
-if you are still looking for rear traction, you can try the -0.75mm roll center holders in the rear.
#3885
I would say 4* of rear toe might be too extreme for 17.5 stock class.
kinga, without knowing what type of track or how much traction you race on, I have some ideas for you to try. First, you said your droop settings are over ride height. 6mm front and 5mm rear is A LOT of droop and can cause the car to behave erratically. I would stay within the realm of 1.5-3.5mm over ride height most of the time. Here are some ideas to try:
-level out the ride height to 5mm all around, or if your track is bumpy, 5.5mm all the way around
-move your front L1/L2 holders to the lower/inner position and/or add more shims to the outside of the camber link, to take some bite away from the front end
-lean the rear shock in all the way. I basically always ran my T3'11 with the rear shock all the way in
-open the rear shock piston to 4 hole or go with slightly softer oil
-go back to 52mm shafts all the way around as they make more traction
-if you are still looking for rear traction, you can try the -0.75mm roll center holders in the rear.
kinga, without knowing what type of track or how much traction you race on, I have some ideas for you to try. First, you said your droop settings are over ride height. 6mm front and 5mm rear is A LOT of droop and can cause the car to behave erratically. I would stay within the realm of 1.5-3.5mm over ride height most of the time. Here are some ideas to try:
-level out the ride height to 5mm all around, or if your track is bumpy, 5.5mm all the way around
-move your front L1/L2 holders to the lower/inner position and/or add more shims to the outside of the camber link, to take some bite away from the front end
-lean the rear shock in all the way. I basically always ran my T3'11 with the rear shock all the way in
-open the rear shock piston to 4 hole or go with slightly softer oil
-go back to 52mm shafts all the way around as they make more traction
-if you are still looking for rear traction, you can try the -0.75mm roll center holders in the rear.
I am runnin 3 degrees of toe in at the moment, I will reset the droop to 3 front and rear. One of the local guys was telling me he runs something like 9mm ORH front and 7mm ORH rear droop.
- The track we run on is very bumpy, even with 5.5 it scrubs and bottoms alot.
- I tried the front lower inner L1/L2 positions, didnt have a whole lot of effect, was still erratic. Putting anymore spacers on top of the camber link just makes the wheel rub on the screw
- I will try 450cst front and 350cst rear on the shocks maybe
- cant run 52mm drive shafts in the rear with the xray gear diff. XRAY lie when they say you can, you cant, I have tried and everyone at our club has tried. Unless you cut down the blades or shim the arms out, at 3 degrees rear toe in 52mm doesnt fit.
- Tried the -75 rear roll center holders. Fixes the traction and locks the rear, but then the car runs REALLY SLOWLY though the corners and loses corner speed compared to the normal ones. I will try the other suggestions first.
I suspect it is the droop setting combined with the front diff, as it wasnt doing it with front spool before