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Xray T3 2011

Old 12-19-2011, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by clparsons123
The h1h2 are higher so they will make the front roll more and produce more traction
The extra traction will come at the cost of corner speed though. I have found front H1 H2 roll centers give good steering and traction but slightly lazy and reduce corner speed slightly.
H1 in the back is even more so, good grip but makes the car roll more and hence reduces corner speed. A flat car corners quicker.
Took me ages to figure it all out, but thats how my car reacts on my track.
I am trying flipped front and rear L1/L2 roll centers at the moment. ie the L1 rc holders in the bottom inner hole on the bulkhead. Seems to give awesome corner speed
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by morgoth
Hi Guys,

I finally managed to get some test time with my T3 2011. I tried short and long camber link in the front with the L1+L2 blocks.

The long link made the car very responsive/twitchy and I had a lot of steering. The short link was actually even more responsive but less agressive/twitchy and the steering was reduced. I felt that I should be in the middle... I don't feel like upgrading my second 2011 with the 2012 bulkheads to be able to use the middle holes. I wonder how the H1 and H2 blocks compare to the L1 and L2 blocks in the front?

I was quite fast with the setup, but it's too sensitive for small mistakes. The rear end spins out too quickly when I make a little mistake. Although there was not a single 17.5T at the track that could keep up with me
This was my 3rd time that I drove onroad so I ordered a 10.5T motor to make it a bit more challenging. The biggest class over here is 17.5T boosted, but I like a bit more bottom end. I'll practice with the 10.5T and race with my 17.5T.
The short link on the new bulkheads is actually the same as the longest link on the old L1 quick roll centres..

The middle link and longest link on the new bulkheads in longer than you could previoulsy go.

To be honest, I dont really understand why Xray didnt give the option to go shorter and lower on the new bulkheads (i've seen a number of guys get their bulkheads milled down 1mm to give them the option). I've also found that when you are generating too much front end, the shortest on the old L1 links would calm the car down no end.
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:09 AM
  #3858  
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Originally Posted by kinga
The extra traction will come at the cost of corner speed though. I have found front H1 H2 roll centers give good steering and traction but slightly lazy and reduce corner speed slightly.
H1 in the back is even more so, good grip but makes the car roll more and hence reduces corner speed. A flat car corners quicker.
Took me ages to figure it all out, but thats how my car reacts on my track.
I am trying flipped front and rear L1/L2 roll centers at the moment. ie the L1 rc holders in the bottom inner hole on the bulkhead. Seems to give awesome corner speed
I have already added a 1mm shim (2mm total) on my steering blocks to get less roll in the front, added a 1mm shim to the ackerman and a 2mm shim between the shocks and the shocktower to get less steering and make it smoother.

When I was driving in the morning, I forgot to tighten my topdeck (I store my car on a flat hudy setupboard with the shocks lose and lose top deck screws lose, because one of my mates told me that this is better to prevent tweak) and my car was actually driving pretty good. The grip was low in the morning (new layout) but my car was hooked compared to the other cars. After I tighten the screws my car became much more resposive and steering was increased. The car was easier to drive with the lose topdeck than with the tightened topdeck (4 screws front, 4 rear)
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by morgoth
I have already added a 1mm shim (2mm total) on my steering blocks to get less roll in the front, added a 1mm shim to the ackerman and a 2mm shim between the shocks and the shocktower to get less steering and make it smoother.

When I was driving in the morning, I forgot to tighten my topdeck (I store my car on a flat hudy setupboard with the shocks lose and lose top deck screws lose, because one of my mates told me that this is better to prevent tweak) and my car was actually driving pretty good. The grip was low in the morning (new layout) but my car was hooked compared to the other cars. After I tighten the screws my car became much more resposive and steering was increased. The car was easier to drive with the lose topdeck than with the tightened topdeck (4 screws front, 4 rear)
You'll find a lot of top drivers hold their top deck down with double sided tape when grip is low, adding more screws as grip comes up.
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Old 12-19-2011, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Mb3195
You'll find a lot of top drivers hold their top deck down with double sided tape when grip is low, adding more screws as grip comes up.
Double sided tape? They put small strokes of double side tape on the bulkheads and motormount and then place the topdeck on it? Doesn't the topdeck come lose when you hit the side of the track by accident?
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Old 12-19-2011, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by morgoth
Double sided tape? They put small strokes of double side tape on the bulkheads and motormount and then place the topdeck on it? Doesn't the topdeck come lose when you hit the side of the track by accident?
Yep, I wouldn't trust it but in low grip conditions some of the top boys use servo tape to hold the top deck, gives loads of flex, it doesn't come loose coz they don't hit anything

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Old 12-19-2011, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bucketboy
Yep, I wouldn't trust it but in low grip conditions some of the top boys use servo tape to hold the top deck, gives loads of flex, it doesn't come loose coz they don't hit anything

Bb
I can say that I drive pretty clean during a race (I crash more in practice when I testing my limits ), but I usually hit something during a 5min main Not a lot tho, but 1 hit is enough to make it come lose I think. And I would be scared to crack my chassis on a big impact!
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:14 PM
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Default Top Deck

How often do you guys tune with adding or removing top deck screws? Also could someone post a picture of their servo mod and the length of the linkage? Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by haywood
How often do you guys tune with adding or removing top deck screws? Also could someone post a picture of their servo mod and the length of the linkage? Thanks.
I have found a topdeck setup that works at my track and I just leave it alone. I have tried different setups, but found that just one works best for any layout on our track.

Look from pg254 until this pg for pics of steering. I also put a linkage length a couple pages back for what worked for me.
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by samnelso
I have found a topdeck setup that works at my track and I just leave it alone. I have tried different setups, but found that just one works best for any layout on our track.

Look from pg254 until this pg for pics of steering. I also put a linkage length a couple pages back for what worked for me.
I have never tried anything else than 8 screws to be honest. 10 screws will the rear more lose I guess. I don't have the extra servo posts to stiffen the topdeck because I didn't got them with my second hand car, but I haven't seen any setup sheet that uses them, so I don't really care about it.

I'd like to test the 2012 topdeck on my 2011, but before I can test with it, I have to use the 2012 servo position. The 2012 looks a little stiffer in the front and little softer in the rear. I think this might take away some steering and a a little rear gip which is what I'm looking for. Or I might cut my 2011 topdeck, the front of the 2011 topdeck looks like it has more flex than the front of the 2012 topdeck.
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by haywood
How often do you guys tune with adding or removing top deck screws? Also could someone post a picture of their servo mod and the length of the linkage? Thanks.
I am using all the top deck screw minus the servo post ones. I am looking for max rear grip as I drive the car strapped!
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by haywood
I am using all the top deck screw minus the servo post ones. I am looking for max rear grip as I drive the car strapped!
Don't you have more grip with less screws? :/
My car was having more grip, but reacted slower with lose topdeck screws.
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Old 12-19-2011, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by morgoth
Don't you have more grip with less screws? :/
My car was having more grip, but reacted slower with lose topdeck screws.
Which ones do you recommend removing?
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Old 12-19-2011, 03:04 PM
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I use differing amounts of top deck screws at different tracks. It makes a big difference and can be a good tuning option in my opinion.
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Old 12-19-2011, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by morgoth
I have never tried anything else than 8 screws to be honest. 10 screws will the rear more lose I guess. I don't have the extra servo posts to stiffen the topdeck because I didn't got them with my second hand car, but I haven't seen any setup sheet that uses them, so I don't really care about it.

I'd like to test the 2012 topdeck on my 2011, but before I can test with it, I have to use the 2012 servo position. The 2012 looks a little stiffer in the front and little softer in the rear. I think this might take away some steering and a a little rear gip which is what I'm looking for. Or I might cut my 2011 topdeck, the front of the 2011 topdeck looks like it has more flex than the front of the 2012 topdeck.
Cut the top deck, reshape the chassis like the 12 and move the servo east west, transformed the car when I did it, much wider set up window, back end is now glued to the track.

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