2LikesXray T3 2011
12-09-2011, 12:18 PM
#3812
Thanks Xpress, I will give that a shot. Yeah, I may have to go up a hole on the horn to get a little more throw as I was at full end point and still have room to grow so to speak in that direction bofore hitting the c-hub.
12-09-2011, 12:23 PM
#3813
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Originally Posted by Mera'din
Thanks Xpress, I will give that a shot. Yeah, I may have to go up a hole on the horn to get a little more throw as I was at full end point and still have room to grow so to speak in that direction bofore hitting the c-hub.
12-09-2011, 02:56 PM
#3814
Originally Posted by Mera'din
That is actually what I have done repeatedly and is couter point to what Xpress is saying. He advises, from what I understand, to have a 90 degree relationship between the link and the servo horn, ignoring the relationship between the horn and the chasis.
My EPA's are 86% one way and 88% the other.
12-09-2011, 03:27 PM
#3815
Something else has occured to me.
Are the steering links the same length?
Check the front toe to ensure you are allowing the same amount of movement each way.
I would also put the link back into the centre hole on the servo saver, and try to get it on a spline as close as possible to vertical, mine has some right trim on the radio to make it vertical.
Are the steering links the same length?
Check the front toe to ensure you are allowing the same amount of movement each way.
I would also put the link back into the centre hole on the servo saver, and try to get it on a spline as close as possible to vertical, mine has some right trim on the radio to make it vertical.
12-09-2011, 07:06 PM
#3816
Originally Posted by samnelso
Here's my steering with the Exotek chassis. Works wonderfully. The Exotek center link does not work so I just drilled the arm. Drag link from servo saver to steering pivot is 52.70mm end-end
12-10-2011, 04:49 AM
#3817
Originally Posted by smilekt
is it all standard bearing in t3 2011 are already good or need change ?
I use the metal sheilded ones, alot easier to clean than the blue rubber sealed ones, just spray with motor spray, dry with compressed air and relube with light lube of choice.
12-10-2011, 05:32 AM
#3818
Originally Posted by kinga
The standard bearings are ok, but as soon as they start to wear, replace them wth ceramics. you can get a full set for around $60 but can spend a whole lot more. I find once you start pulling and prodding at the blue rubber seals they bend and introduce drag into the bearing. Dont bother replacing with the xray branded bearings, you can replace them with much better bearings for only a little more in price.
I use the metal sheilded ones, alot easier to clean than the blue rubber sealed ones, just spray with motor spray, dry with compressed air and relube with light lube of choice.
I use the metal sheilded ones, alot easier to clean than the blue rubber sealed ones, just spray with motor spray, dry with compressed air and relube with light lube of choice.
12-11-2011, 01:20 AM
#3820
Originally Posted by kinga
The standard bearings are ok, but as soon as they start to wear, replace them wth ceramics. you can get a full set for around $60 but can spend a whole lot more. I find once you start pulling and prodding at the blue rubber seals they bend and introduce drag into the bearing. Dont bother replacing with the xray branded bearings, you can replace them with much better bearings for only a little more in price.
I use the metal sheilded ones, alot easier to clean than the blue rubber sealed ones, just spray with motor spray, dry with compressed air and relube with light lube of choice.
I use the metal sheilded ones, alot easier to clean than the blue rubber sealed ones, just spray with motor spray, dry with compressed air and relube with light lube of choice.
12-11-2011, 02:43 AM
#3821
Originally Posted by Mera'din
That is actually what I have done repeatedly and is couter point to what Xpress is saying. He advises, from what I understand, to have a 90 degree relationship between the link and the servo horn, ignoring the relationship between the horn and the chasis.
Xpress is correct, the relationship between the link and servo horn is vital. The relation between servo horn and chassis is not relevant.
Start at the outmost end (steering links) and work your way towards the servo, not the other way round.
12-11-2011, 06:54 AM
#3822
Has anyone tried the 2011 with a 2012 topdeck? I guess the topdeck would fit but I'm not sure.
Should a 2012 topdeck compare to a cutted 2011 topdeck? I'm thinking of testing my 2011 with my friends 2012 topdeck and then decide to cut my topdeck.
Should a 2012 topdeck compare to a cutted 2011 topdeck? I'm thinking of testing my 2011 with my friends 2012 topdeck and then decide to cut my topdeck.
12-11-2011, 08:30 AM
#3823
Originally Posted by morgoth
Has anyone tried the 2011 with a 2012 topdeck? I guess the topdeck would fit but I'm not sure.
Should a 2012 topdeck compare to a cutted 2011 topdeck? I'm thinking of testing my 2011 with my friends 2012 topdeck and then decide to cut my topdeck.
Should a 2012 topdeck compare to a cutted 2011 topdeck? I'm thinking of testing my 2011 with my friends 2012 topdeck and then decide to cut my topdeck.
The '11 top deck if cut near the rear, will have a longer gap to the join between it's sides than the T3'12.
Put the two side by side and you'll see what I mean.
12-11-2011, 08:51 AM
#3824
Originally Posted by Skiddins
The T3'12 top deck will fit straight onto the '11.
The '11 top deck if cut near the rear, will have a longer gap to the join between it's sides than the T3'12.
Put the two side by side and you'll see what I mean.
The '11 top deck if cut near the rear, will have a longer gap to the join between it's sides than the T3'12.
Put the two side by side and you'll see what I mean.
12-11-2011, 11:13 AM
#3825
Originally Posted by morgoth
Thanks! Do you think the rear end will have too much flex?
