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Xray T3 2011

Old 12-09-2011, 10:54 AM
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Here's my steering with the Exotek chassis. Works wonderfully. The Exotek center link does not work so I just drilled the arm. Drag link from servo saver to steering pivot is 52.70mm end-end.


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Old 12-09-2011, 11:18 AM
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Thanks Xpress, I will give that a shot. Yeah, I may have to go up a hole on the horn to get a little more throw as I was at full end point and still have room to grow so to speak in that direction bofore hitting the c-hub.
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Old 12-09-2011, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
Thanks Xpress, I will give that a shot. Yeah, I may have to go up a hole on the horn to get a little more throw as I was at full end point and still have room to grow so to speak in that direction bofore hitting the c-hub.
ygpm
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Old 12-09-2011, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
That is actually what I have done repeatedly and is couter point to what Xpress is saying. He advises, from what I understand, to have a 90 degree relationship between the link and the servo horn, ignoring the relationship between the horn and the chasis.
My car on full lock each way.
My EPA's are 86% one way and 88% the other.


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Old 12-09-2011, 02:27 PM
  #3815  
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Something else has occured to me.

Are the steering links the same length?
Check the front toe to ensure you are allowing the same amount of movement each way.

I would also put the link back into the centre hole on the servo saver, and try to get it on a spline as close as possible to vertical, mine has some right trim on the radio to make it vertical.
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Old 12-09-2011, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by samnelso View Post
Here's my steering with the Exotek chassis. Works wonderfully. The Exotek center link does not work so I just drilled the arm. Drag link from servo saver to steering pivot is 52.70mm end-end
Thanks for the pics. Is that just a regular screw (not a ball stud) going into the servo saver. Was wondering whether I'd need to buy a longer ball stud or not....
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Old 12-10-2011, 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by smilekt View Post
is it all standard bearing in t3 2011 are already good or need change ?
The standard bearings are ok, but as soon as they start to wear, replace them wth ceramics. you can get a full set for around $60 but can spend a whole lot more. I find once you start pulling and prodding at the blue rubber seals they bend and introduce drag into the bearing. Dont bother replacing with the xray branded bearings, you can replace them with much better bearings for only a little more in price.
I use the metal sheilded ones, alot easier to clean than the blue rubber sealed ones, just spray with motor spray, dry with compressed air and relube with light lube of choice.
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Old 12-10-2011, 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
The standard bearings are ok, but as soon as they start to wear, replace them wth ceramics. you can get a full set for around $60 but can spend a whole lot more. I find once you start pulling and prodding at the blue rubber seals they bend and introduce drag into the bearing. Dont bother replacing with the xray branded bearings, you can replace them with much better bearings for only a little more in price.
I use the metal sheilded ones, alot easier to clean than the blue rubber sealed ones, just spray with motor spray, dry with compressed air and relube with light lube of choice.
agreed..only problem is i took out my ceramics from my spare car..and accidently mixed them up....they look the same as the xray ones...stupid blue seals....speaking of which i had one pop off from a layshaft bearing
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Old 12-10-2011, 02:08 PM
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Has anyone ever ordered anything from spec r. I placed an order on nov 27 and my package still hasn't arrived!!
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
The standard bearings are ok, but as soon as they start to wear, replace them wth ceramics. you can get a full set for around $60 but can spend a whole lot more. I find once you start pulling and prodding at the blue rubber seals they bend and introduce drag into the bearing. Dont bother replacing with the xray branded bearings, you can replace them with much better bearings for only a little more in price.
I use the metal sheilded ones, alot easier to clean than the blue rubber sealed ones, just spray with motor spray, dry with compressed air and relube with light lube of choice.
thanks kinga
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Old 12-11-2011, 01:43 AM
  #3821  
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
That is actually what I have done repeatedly and is couter point to what Xpress is saying. He advises, from what I understand, to have a 90 degree relationship between the link and the servo horn, ignoring the relationship between the horn and the chasis.
This is very often misunderstood.
Xpress is correct, the relationship between the link and servo horn is vital. The relation between servo horn and chassis is not relevant.
Start at the outmost end (steering links) and work your way towards the servo, not the other way round.
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Old 12-11-2011, 05:54 AM
  #3822  
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Has anyone tried the 2011 with a 2012 topdeck? I guess the topdeck would fit but I'm not sure.
Should a 2012 topdeck compare to a cutted 2011 topdeck? I'm thinking of testing my 2011 with my friends 2012 topdeck and then decide to cut my topdeck.
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Old 12-11-2011, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
Has anyone tried the 2011 with a 2012 topdeck? I guess the topdeck would fit but I'm not sure.
Should a 2012 topdeck compare to a cutted 2011 topdeck? I'm thinking of testing my 2011 with my friends 2012 topdeck and then decide to cut my topdeck.
The T3'12 top deck will fit straight onto the '11.

The '11 top deck if cut near the rear, will have a longer gap to the join between it's sides than the T3'12.

Put the two side by side and you'll see what I mean.
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Old 12-11-2011, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
The T3'12 top deck will fit straight onto the '11.

The '11 top deck if cut near the rear, will have a longer gap to the join between it's sides than the T3'12.

Put the two side by side and you'll see what I mean.
Thanks! Do you think the rear end will have too much flex?
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Old 12-11-2011, 10:13 AM
  #3825  
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Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
Thanks! Do you think the rear end will have too much flex?
It might be ok, certainly something to try if you have a low grip track
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