Mb3195

leave as is!! Put all my electronics in, battery in, motor in, put it on the track and drive it!! If you see my car go round at the moment, you'd be more than pleased!!

samnelso

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone gotten Exotek's steering center link bridge to work with their chassis? The chassis is great, but neither I or a fellow racer at the track have been able to get the center link to work for both full steering and symmetry. The other racer has completely abandoned it and drilled the pivot arm, and I'm very close to doing the same.

Mine was working decent, but I had to have my subtrim maxed to the left and also had to have a few clicks of trim to get it to track straight. It also gave me only a max EPA of about 80% of what the stock car had argg.

bucketboy

No one I know don't get enough servo throw.

Bb

PDR TOO

iTrader: (24)

I used the Exotek steering link with an Exotek Chassis. I have just installed the T3 2012 chassis and top deck and also use the Exotek centre steering link.

I have used one of the spacers that normally fits between the steering pivot arm and the top deck, as a giant shim between the servo saver and the turnbuckle that connects the servo saver to the steering link. My radio end points are turned up to 110% (M11x).

Hope this helps.

blade072

iTrader: (98)

i have the exotek steering brace.....did set left and right epa's differently to combat the issue..both go full lock both ways....all i adjust now is my dual rate....havent had a problem since....i love it
i also use the middle hole on the servo saver which means i had to set the epa's different but no real issue as i have written above

i did originally have the zeppin steering brace to try but never used as the holes were lower slightly hitting the belt....and i didnt like the idea of adding spacers on it to get clearance...which meant i could use the spacers i had for the servo placement instead..

samnelso

iTrader: (1)

Could one of you guys post a pic of your steering setup if you get a chance? I had my endpoints set on full (150%) on my airtronics radio with a savox lopro. The servo is shimmed all the way forward (5mm if I remember) until it almost touches steering pivot. I tried the middle hole and the outer hole on the xray servo saver, diffrent angles of the servo saver with different drag link lengths, and everywhere from zero to 12mm of shims infront of the servo saver. From your comments, I am missing something that I just havent seen.

Skiddins

This was how mine was for a while, to make sure I got almost full lock either way the servo saver is at an angle.
If you have to have a big difference in your EPA's in either direction, the steering will be faster in one direction than the other.

I have since just fitted all the proper parts for the T3'12 so it doesn't rub the belt etc and the servo saver in central.

Skiddins

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

Holy Crap!!! I gotta eat my words here and appologize to those of you who told me to go back to the kit setup. I reset everything, other than the H1/H2 front and rear roll centers cause I can't get rid of those since I paid so much for them.

The car drove awesome! Great balance of grip in the corners and all. I wish that I had been able to test these settings on the old layout to see the exact difference but at least it worked well on the current very tight setup.

With that being said, what could I expect by going to the L1/L2 roll center adaptors? I do have a set of the new style clamps I can throw in to test out. You can supposedly set them to emulate the h1 or l1 roll center adaptors.

So far the only things I have different than that kit setup are the H1/H2 adaptors, a cut top deck, 2mm akerman spacers, and a modified east/west servo mount (Which I really liked by the way).

Sith Lord

iTrader: (21)

What chassis is that on there? '12 or aftermarket, I guess, as you've got the outer servo post.

Mb3195

We hate to say we told you so.......

For carpet, pretty much all of us over here use the h1/h2 on the front with l1/l2 on the rear, even on the new bulkheads we run this setup, shortest links, 1mm spacer inthe front, 0mm on the rear.

Mb3195

Exotek xr'11 I believe. Personally, if you're going to upgrade id get the new Xray chassis, or wait a bit and I'd imagine exotek will release a more flexi version soon.

kinga

iTrader: (15)

I did the same thing as you, I have a full set of anti roll bars and springs, tried them all and went back to kit setup.
The only changes I have made are the cut top deck and flipped rear L1 Quick roll center adjusters. I think the search for a better setup makes you appreciate how good the kit setup is, as you can get the car handling pretty poorly, adjust your driving to compensate, then reset everything back to kit and are presented with a well handling car.
i think a big part of what people overlook is good tires. Never test your car on worn or suspect tires. A bent rim can ruin your setup

morgoth

I drove my Xray 2011 for the second time today. Unfortunately I can't get the car the way I want it. It has waaaaay too much steering. I'm a persoon who likes a lot of steering but it's kinda insane now.

I was running 450 in all my shocks and the long wheelbase in the front. L1+L2 in the inner upper position, inner position on the rear hub. I was driving op LRP CPX tires.

With 3 holes open on each shock but the car was too responsive and had too much steering. I tried the car with 3 holes open in the front and 4 in the rear but that didn't go so well. The rear end hadn't enough damping. Then I tried 2 holes in the front and 3 in the back and it was better. I also added an other shim (2mm total) where the camberlink is mounted to the steering blocks. I didn't notice too much difference but my mate told me that the car would have less roll. And the most important thing was to smooth only the half innerside of the tire. (I used Reinhard carpet additive, which is pretty good compared to LRP carpet smoothing)

My car turns in great and the exit is pretty good, except is you push it a little too hard you can start sliding, but as soon as I release the throttle in mid corner, the backend starts to slide.
When I drive with my friends cars (2010 & 2012) this doesn't happen and the cars steer less.
I'm a seriously doubting on cutting my top deck, but I think the issue is somewhere else located.
My toe values were 0.75° out at the front and 3° in the back. Camber 1° front and 2° rear. Ride height 5.3mm front, 5.4mm rear (also tried equal ride height but that didn't help the extremely loose backend problem).

I qualified as 9th in the A main final and ended up as 3th, but I'm not convinced that the car was great. Although I'm happy with my results since I started driving TC about 1 month ago, but I have driven before on carpet with my 1/10 buggy. It actually feels like a lazy TC that likes some jumps

morgoth

I did a few searches in the this and it seems that I should try a 1 or 2mm on the ackerman and use short upper links in the front and perhaps in the rear if there's enough grip.
Do you guys this is OK for my situation? I think I'll settle with something about 450f/400r oil as a base setup. Maybe 500f/450r? Or 500/500? 350 all around is too soft imo. It makes my car overreacting and the weight transfer is too quick. My car starts shaking in fast, long corner with light oil.

I find that the LRP CPX tires give my the most grip, although some other drivers say it's a weird tire compared to other brands and you need to run a ticker front oil because the car is too responsive with equal oils. I have Sorex 32R tires (used, but good) that I received with my T3, but they are not gripping at all on carpet.

Skiddins

MB is correct, it's an Exotek I bought a few months back when I needed a new chassis anyway