morgoth

This is the setup I ended with at the end of the day. But the car was still a bit twitchy and had a lot of steering.

Link: http://cl.ly/CApE

Mb3195

Try the following:

Move shocks out front and rear, one hole, maybe move front out 2.
Less front toe, try 0.5 degrees
Increase wheelbase to 257

Rest looks ok.

morgoth

Actually, my shocks were in the middle hole in the front and 2nd lower hole in the back. Inclining them all the way down made the car a little less responsive. But I'll change my wheelbase and try again with the shock locations.

I have changed my oil to 450cts because I think this will slow down the weight transfer a little and make the car a little more forgiving. I'll see how that goes on sunday.

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

Gonna try something for the next races. Going back to the rubber tire setup but I am going to shorten the wheel base. What do you think? I thought bringing the front back 1mm may help, I would have 1mm shim in front and behind the front arm.

Should I bring it all the way back?

What about the rear. Should I bring that forward or leave it as is? Right not the set sheet calld for 2mm spacer in front of the rear arm.

I also am going to add 2mm shims to the akerman since the track is so tight. I remember reading that in the setup manual I think.

This months track is even more technical! Take a look!

morgoth

I raced on a very tight track last sunday, but this is even more smaller!
I'd start with a 1mm shim in the front of the front arm and a 2mm shim in front of the rear arm.
You'll need a lot of steering on that track to get around the tight corners.

bucketboy

Dude, you need to try one thing at a time so you can see whats happening, first thing I would do on a track like that is sell the Xray and get a CRC XL

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

Oops, in re-reading that I realize I forgot to mention that! It was my intention to do the wheel base first then the akerman shims.

You're kidding about selling the XRay right! They are still the fastest and most durable cars at the track. The guy driving the TC6 just switched camps so he doesn't count! We run 1/14th scale recoils for small scale action. Heck we are the 2nd most active track in the USA when it comes to the recoil/carisma class according to Horizon. Those cars are running more laps than the 1/10th scales.

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

Go back to the kit wheelbase, which is what bucketboy suggested.

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

Rodger the kit wheel base. I thought it odd that the suggested rubber setup was different than than the kit setup. What else differs from the suggested rubber tire setup and the kit setup? I see the H1/H2 roll centers, which I have. Don't really see any difference in them to tell you the truth.

I am also wondering how you guys are holding down the servo when you do the east/west mod. I have used servo tape before on other cars and they all seem to wobble a bit when turned by hand and over time the tape starts to give way. Those were on smaller 1/18th scale cars, I imagine it would be worse on a 1/10th scale car.

bucketboy

This thread is so wide I started in my house but had to go to my next door nieghbours to read the rest

Anyway, east west servo make the car a whole lot better.
You will need to fit a servo post inboard and servo tape under servo, stick it down and its going nowhere.

Bb

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

Sorry, fixed that. I just linked to some pics of the track and didn't take the time to resize them.

I assume that a hole will need to be made in the chasis for this method to work? I had thought simply using some servo tape and shoo goo.

bucketboy

Yep you will need to drill a hole, you want to get the servo as close as you can to the middle without hitting the beltand as far forward without hitting steering crank (if you cut off the inside horns of you servo you can fit the servo post on the other side)

Drill a 2.5mm hole in the right hand steering crank as close as you can to the track rod ball, fit a ballstud and steering link, this will give you more servo throw which will give much smoother steering.

Shoegoo will work but it is a bu66er to get off if you need to

Bb

Bigz84

iTrader: (23)

Are you using the H roll centers? If you are having issues w/ grip, use the L roll centers that come w/ the kit. I thought the same thing as you, but i just put the L roll centers in my T2 and the rear end is STUCK to the track. I converted my '11 car to a '12 and i am using the long link in the rear and the -.75 hubs, shocks laid down, 2.5 rear camber, 3.5 toe, and my 12 has a ton of grip. H roll centers are for high grip according to their web site and used to prevent traction rolling, which i can't see happening on such a small track like yours.

Shoe goo has been used at our track to hold the servo down on the '11s.

kinga

iTrader: (15)

Drill a hole in the chassis and use one servo mount in the center of the chassis. Carefully drill out hole then carefully countersink with bigger drill bit.
THis thread should be renamed "Help Mera'din get his xray handlin' well! "
Lol

mazmorbid

iTrader: (11)

Better to buy a proper 45 deg countersink drill bit for like $8