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Old 11-27-2011, 12:44 PM   #3706
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Hey guys, I raced my xray T3 2011 for the first time today. The car was extremely twitchy and had massive steering. As soon as move the steeringwheel, the car responded extremely. I was hard to go straight on the straight line

I did some setup to make it better and it was pretty driveable but still very hard to get it consistent.

I did setup the car with 0.75 toe out in the front, 3 toe in in the back. 1 camber front, 2 rear and that made it a little better.

I moved my shock to the lower holes to make the car less responsive and drove with 2 holes in the front and 3 holes in the back. Shock oil was 350 like from the base setup. I'm thinking of trying 450 or 500cts because this will slow down the reaction of the car on the steering.

The front A-arm has a 1mm shim in the front and the rear. I'm thinking of moving the front A arm all the way up so there less weight on the front wheels.

I haven't played with the camber links yet because I need to recheck the whole setup and the time was limited. I was running L1-L2 blocks on the inner upper holes on the tower. I guess moving them to the lower hole would create more grip, altough the setup book says higher links create more grip? On my offroad car, the lower hole means usually a more planted car.

I gave my car to a pro driver who likes a lot of steering and he said my car had more steering than his T3 2012. And this was at the end of the day when I managed to make the car a little more stable.
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Old 11-27-2011, 12:55 PM   #3707
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Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
Hey guys, I raced my xray T3 2011 for the first time today. The car was extremely twitchy and had massive steering. As soon as move the steeringwheel, the car responded extremely. I was hard to go straight on the straight line

I did some setup to make it better and it was pretty driveable but still very hard to get it consistent.

I did setup the car with 0.75 toe out in the front, 3 toe in in the back. 1 camber front, 2 rear and that made it a little better.

I moved my shock to the lower holes to make the car less responsive and drove with 2 holes in the front and 3 holes in the back. Shock oil was 350 like from the base setup. I'm thinking of trying 450 or 500cts because this will slow down the reaction of the car on the steering.

The front A-arm has a 1mm shim in the front and the rear. I'm thinking of moving the front A arm all the way up so there less weight on the front wheels.

I haven't played with the camber links yet because I need to recheck the whole setup and the time was limited. I was running L1-L2 blocks on the inner upper holes on the tower. I guess moving them to the lower hole would create more grip, altough the setup book says higher links create more grip? On my offroad car, the lower hole means usually a more planted car.

I gave my car to a pro driver who likes a lot of steering and he said my car had more steering than his T3 2012. And this was at the end of the day when I managed to make the car a little more stable.
How much throw are you using on your servo? It sounds like your not using much, hence making it super responsive. Ideally, you need to be using over 70%, my bet is youre using about 30
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Old 11-27-2011, 01:58 PM   #3708
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How much throw are you using on your servo? It sounds like your not using much, hence making it super responsive. Ideally, you need to be using over 70%, my bet is youre using about 30
I'm using 120%. And my dual rates are at 100%. I don't like it to reduce steering throw to make my car work. I'd prefer setup over radio settings.
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Old 11-27-2011, 02:53 PM   #3709
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I'm using 120%. And my dual rates are at 100%. I don't like it to reduce steering throw to make my car work. I'd prefer setup over radio settings.
You do not need to reduce total throw, but if you set your expo to reduce off center movement say 15-20% you can tame the car off center and still have the same overall steering. I don't even try to run my '11 at 0 expo, and I am usually a little below full lock, but we have a high grip carpet track.

If you insist on not changing the radio, then adjust your ackerman, make the wheels have less of a difference between each other and this will tame the car down.
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Old 11-27-2011, 03:42 PM   #3710
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You do not need to reduce total throw, but if you set your expo to reduce off center movement say 15-20% you can tame the car off center and still have the same overall steering. I don't even try to run my '11 at 0 expo, and I am usually a little below full lock, but we have a high grip carpet track.

If you insist on not changing the radio, then adjust your ackerman, make the wheels have less of a difference between each other and this will tame the car down.
Aha! This is some useful information! My expo was at 15% because the car was to nervous, but this is the first car that I own and needs expo. I think if I need to use expo, something is wrong with the setup.

I have just filled my shocks with 450cts. I think this will slow down the weight transfer which will tame the car. There is 1mm shim in front of the front A arm. Using the long wheelbase in the front should give me also less steering I think, but if I take a look at the pro setups, most of the guys run a 1mm shim in front of the A arm.
I'll try to tune with the links/ackerman and shocks first before changing my wheelbase.

Also, I'm highly doubting to cut my topdeck. The steering on this car is amazing, but I'm not sure how it would affect the driving characteristics. Unfortunately, ou can't reverse the mod
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Old 11-27-2011, 03:46 PM   #3711
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Aha! This is some useful information! My expo was at 15% because the car was to nervous, but this is the first car that I own and needs expo. I think if I need to use expo, something is wrong with the setup.

I have just filled my shocks with 450cts. I think this will slow down the weight transfer which will tame the car. There is 1mm shim in front of the front A arm. Using the long wheelbase in the front should give me also less steering I think, but if I take a look at the pro setups, most of the guys run a 1mm shim in front of the A arm.
I'll try to tune with the links/ackerman and shocks first before changing my wheelbase.

Also, I'm highly doubting to cut my topdeck. The steering on this car is amazing, but I'm not sure how it would affect the driving characteristics. Unfortunately, ou can't reverse the mod
I don't have the full setup written down, but we are running full long wheelbase and thicker front damping for these reasons. Stock springs, but using the 1 hole arms all around.
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Old 11-27-2011, 04:47 PM   #3712
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Aha! This is some useful information! My expo was at 15% because the car was to nervous, but this is the first car that I own and needs expo. I think if I need to use expo, something is wrong with the setup.
For off-road, I have about the same mentality; for on-road, expo is your friend, might as well get cozy with the idea.
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Old 11-27-2011, 08:20 PM   #3713
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Has anyone tried a after market ECS drive shaft.
Spec-R C.V. Universal swing shaft Version 2 (SPR-001-XR2) and Arrowmax CVD'S (Double carban) Am-010005
Any comments compare with XRAY ECS Drive shaft as I am thinking to get one
Cheers
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Old 11-27-2011, 08:21 PM   #3714
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Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
Like I said, looking at the video, practice is what's needed. The guy who won has an arse endy car to get him round such a tight track, driving a car like that is much harder and requires more skill.
I drove his car pretty well I thought. Arse endy? You mean more weight on the rear?

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Although, if your not running one, would seriously consider putting in a gear diff at the front with around 250-300k oil in it, your track doesn't seem to need much pull out of the corners, which you'll lose with this, but you'll get much more steering entering the corners, you'll also notice the car is more precise and easier to drive.

This would be the main change on this track.
I have a ball diff in the rear. I do have an extra ball diff I could put up front. I would imagine I would have to tighten it up a bit to match 250-300k oil.
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:47 AM   #3715
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I drove his car pretty well I thought. Arse endy? You mean more weight on the rear?



I have a ball diff in the rear. I do have an extra ball diff I could put up front. I would imagine I would have to tighten it up a bit to match 250-300k oil.
[/I]

I mean his back end is really loose, makes the car react quicker and get round corners quicker, it is however, harder to drive.

Ball diff in the front wont be anywhere near as tight as a gear diff. You wont be able to get exactly the same feel, but try a ball diff and see how it feels, you may lose too much drive out of the corners to be as quick as a spool.

A gear diff in the front is the best of both worlds, pull out of the corners, quick getting into the corners.
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:03 AM   #3716
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Has anyone tried a after market ECS drive shaft.
Spec-R C.V. Universal swing shaft Version 2 (SPR-001-XR2) and Arrowmax CVD'S (Double carban) Am-010005
Any comments compare with XRAY ECS Drive shaft as I am thinking to get one
Cheers
Be carefull with after market ECS driveshafts, some have motor limits (written in very small writing) but they are ok if your motor is 17.5 or more and you don't crash

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Old 11-28-2011, 05:31 AM   #3717
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Originally Posted by shio View Post
Has anyone tried a after market ECS drive shaft.
Spec-R C.V. Universal swing shaft Version 2 (SPR-001-XR2) and Arrowmax CVD'S (Double carban) Am-010005
Any comments compare with XRAY ECS Drive shaft as I am thinking to get one
Cheers
Quote:
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Be carefull with after market ECS driveshafts, some have motor limits (written in very small writing) but they are ok if your motor is 17.5 or more and you don't crash

Bb
Nothing beats the reliability of XRay ecs. The spec-r are made of junk metal. They can break without you hitting anything. I've never tried the other brand as the XRay ones are that good.

Make the investment ...
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Old 11-28-2011, 06:47 AM   #3718
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Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
Hey guys, I raced my xray T3 2011 for the first time today. The car was extremely twitchy and had massive steering. As soon as move the steeringwheel, the car responded extremely. I was hard to go straight on the straight line
How far are you from the kit setup? If it's relatively far, go back to the kit setup and start there. I always find the kit setups to be pretty lazy/pushy.
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:47 AM   #3719
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How far are you from the kit setup? If it's relatively far, go back to the kit setup and start there. I always find the kit setups to be pretty lazy/pushy.
I'm actually pretty close to the stock setup. I'll upload my current setup asap.
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Old 11-28-2011, 11:05 AM   #3720
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Originally Posted by shio View Post
Has anyone tried a after market ECS drive shaft.
Spec-R C.V. Universal swing shaft Version 2 (SPR-001-XR2) and Arrowmax CVD'S (Double carban) Am-010005
Any comments compare with XRAY ECS Drive shaft as I am thinking to get one
Cheers
The spec-r ones are junk.

The Arrowmax ones are quite good. High quality spring steel and precisely made. They only come in one size though (52mm). They're half the price of HUDY, but they really aren't lacking in quality at all. Try 'em out
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