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Old 11-23-2011, 01:43 PM   #3691
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Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
And is it a good a idea to go thicker in the front? Or the same oil all around?
I've now settled with the same front and rear, car feels much better balanced. Same with springs, keep them a very similar tension, maybe 1 step harder on the front.
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:54 PM   #3692
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Originally Posted by Bigz84 View Post
To follow up to Mb3195, Xray 350 is Xray 35w, according to their covnversion table.
I personally used Losi 35w
I know a lot of people who run heavier oil in the front, it just wasn't a good feel to me. If i were you, put the same oil, front to rear, and place the clicker pistons in the front and play around w/ the holes being open. it think it is a 5w diff in feel as you close the holes, ie 30-35, I may be wrong about that though....
Losi 35 is actually closer to 450 cst. Never go on the "W" rating, its up to the manufacturer to list the W rating and never the same between manufacturers. Always go on CST rating, it is a scientific measurement of the thickness of oil.
I use losi 35 personally and like it, I tried the Losi 30 and it is almost identical to the kit 350cst oil, rating at 350cst also
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:08 AM   #3693
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
Losi 35 is actually closer to 450 cst. Never go on the "W" rating, its up to the manufacturer to list the W rating and never the same between manufacturers. Always go on CST rating, it is a scientific measurement of the thickness of oil.
I use losi 35 personally and like it, I tried the Losi 30 and it is almost identical to the kit 350cst oil, rating at 350cst also
yeah your right, I mis typed on what i what wanted to say. SORRY for this mis info

I meant to say Xray 350cst is Xray 30w.

here is the conversion
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...9&catName=XRAY Oil Conversion Table
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:47 AM   #3694
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any one have problem rear shock tower not same height after screw on upper bulkhead? it will make droop for rear lower arm not same height ... my damper already measure same length .
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Old 11-24-2011, 03:21 AM   #3695
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any one have problem rear shock tower not same height after screw on upper bulkhead? it will make droop for rear lower arm not same height ... my damper already measure same length .
Can you post a photo of the problem?
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Old 11-26-2011, 01:42 AM   #3696
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So tonight I went back to the rubber tire setup and the car handled pretty good. It was more stable in the straights, could really power on after the sweeper turns.

The trouble is the "S" turns. Right away the car was a little pushy thought them and I had to use break or really scub some speed to navigate them.

Keep in mind I am not as smooth and good at drive fast as most, but I am learning and getting better. A veteran ran my car and he thought it was dialed.

Anyways, the car would push pretty bad in the long sweep turn at the end of the straight and into the "S" turns.

Fir the 2nd race I ran more compound up front and loosened the diff. It didn't help much. For the mains I switched to the narrow front hexes as a quick fix and went to 2.5 degrees camber up front.

I used the rubber tire setup from the xray site below. I have am even weight distribution front to back on my car. I reset my car after the races as i didn;t like they way it handled. Anyways, I am back to this setup and need some advice how to glue the car to the track.
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File Type: pdf XRAY T3 2011 Specs Basic Setup Sheet[1].pdf (475.2 KB, 216 views)
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Old 11-26-2011, 01:47 PM   #3697
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So glad you have taken all those silly bits off. Open some more holes in the rear shock. Go straight to three and then try four. One thing at a time is the mantra. Don't get too carried away with weight balance. I'm not convinced it makes that much difference
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Old 11-26-2011, 04:28 PM   #3698
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
So tonight I went back to the rubber tire setup and the car handled pretty good. It was more stable in the straights, could really power on after the sweeper turns.

The trouble is the "S" turns. Right away the car was a little pushy thought them and I had to use break or really scub some speed to navigate them.

Keep in mind I am not as smooth and good at drive fast as most, but I am learning and getting better. A veteran ran my car and he thought it was dialed.

Anyways, the car would push pretty bad in the long sweep turn at the end of the straight and into the "S" turns.

Fir the 2nd race I ran more compound up front and loosened the diff. It didn't help much. For the mains I switched to the narrow front hexes as a quick fix and went to 2.5 degrees camber up front.

I used the rubber tire setup from the xray site below. I have am even weight distribution front to back on my car. I reset my car after the races as i didn;t like they way it handled. Anyways, I am back to this setup and need some advice how to glue the car to the track.
Its pushing off power? You could try:
Try ride heights of 5fr / 5.8rr
Harden the rear bar and/or soften the front bar
increase rear droop to say 4

The fact that your having to use the brakes to get the car to turn off power is an indication that not enough weight is transfterring to the front... all of the adjustments above will move more weight to the front of the car off power.
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Old 11-26-2011, 09:29 PM   #3699
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try removing the sway bars alltogther. I had a bad on power push and removing the front bar fixed that. Also, use the -.75 rear roll center to get a bit more back end grip. Moved my rear L1/L2"s to the number one hole and got the rear end locked in..did the same to the front and increased overall grip
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Old 11-26-2011, 10:43 PM   #3700
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Originally Posted by Lycan View Post
Its pushing off power? You could try:
Try ride heights of 5fr / 5.8rr
Harden the rear bar and/or soften the front bar
increase rear droop to say 4

The fact that your having to use the brakes to get the car to turn off power is an indication that not enough weight is transfterring to the front... all of the adjustments above will move more weight to the front of the car off power.

It is pushing on power too through the sweep turns. Then at the end of those there is an s turn that I have to pull back the car to get through them. Not at all smooth.
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Old 11-27-2011, 03:53 AM   #3701
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
It is pushing on power too through the sweep turns. Then at the end of those there is an s turn that I have to pull back the car to get through them. Not at all smooth.
For such a small track you seem to be having alot of issues lol!
I think you need to look to use kit setup or very close and also try new tires. I have lost count of the number of times I have asked questions about setup, then gone over the car and found a camber setting out or tire buckled or warped. Then Gone back to kit and the problem has gone away. Dont stray to much, the further from kit you go as a newb the more trouble you get into.

Set it up nice and even all round, shocks built properly and new tires then confirm
You are trying and using different tires and new tires when you are having issues? Dont underestimate tires, one buckled wheel and the car will handle like [email protected]
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:11 AM   #3702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
So tonight I went back to the rubber tire setup and the car handled pretty good. It was more stable in the straights, could really power on after the sweeper turns.

The trouble is the "S" turns. Right away the car was a little pushy thought them and I had to use break or really scub some speed to navigate them.

Keep in mind I am not as smooth and good at drive fast as most, but I am learning and getting better. A veteran ran my car and he thought it was dialed.

Anyways, the car would push pretty bad in the long sweep turn at the end of the straight and into the "S" turns.

Fir the 2nd race I ran more compound up front and loosened the diff. It didn't help much. For the mains I switched to the narrow front hexes as a quick fix and went to 2.5 degrees camber up front.

I used the rubber tire setup from the xray site below. I have am even weight distribution front to back on my car. I reset my car after the races as i didn;t like they way it handled. Anyways, I am back to this setup and need some advice how to glue the car to the track.
If a veteran ran your car and said it was dialled, I'd suggest leave the car alone and get practising! It's easy to keep fiddling to try and get the perfect setup, but 90% of the time, the car will always go quicker if driven correctly.
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:14 AM   #3703
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
For such a small track you seem to be having alot of issues lol!
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Originally Posted by mb3195 View Post
If a veteran ran your car and said it was dialled, I'd suggest leave the car alone and get practising! It's easy to keep fiddling to try and get the perfect setup, but 90% of the time, the car will always go quicker if driven correctly.

Easy answer to this, and I have stated it before, I am still a relatively green driver when compared to other fast drivers at the track. I am not totally new to the hobby, been running for a number of years, this is just my first real onroad car and I want to learn to drive and set it up well from those that run this car.

And yes, the track is small but I found that it is much harder to go fast on this track than a larger one. There is more traffic and less room for mistakes. The other drivers who race on a large track said they find is a little easier on a big track, or they could mean easier on the cars!

I know 90% of my trouble come from my driving and not the car but I can't help but think there is something that can be done to help with my lack of experience in getting around the track.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


For example, in the video I qualified 3rd. This was where I changed to the narrow front hexes to see what that felt like. I endded up in 2nd place beating the other xray driver (blue/yellow car) but behind the tc6 (green/white in first). You can see make a lot of driving mistakes as i got used to the narrow hexes during the first few laps. Then I got a little quicker.

If you watch the 1st place car he just glides through the s turns after the first sweep, which he goes though at almost full throttle. I had to let off way too much to get through there. You can see at the end I was holding him off from lapping me again but I got myself into bad positions as he was riding my rear throught the turns so much I found myself really pushing, car and skills.

It was a fun race and I am learning a lot about the car with all of your guys help. Hopefully you don't all switch to the 2012 and abandon me!
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Last edited by Meradin; 11-27-2011 at 10:07 PM.
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Old 11-27-2011, 11:18 AM   #3704
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Wow, that is a seriously tiny track!
I'd suggest it comes down to skills to get around that track at pace. Serious percision required.
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Old 11-27-2011, 11:26 AM   #3705
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
Easy answer to this, and I have stated it before, I am still a relatively green driver when compared to other fast drivers at the track. I am not totally new to the hobby, been running for a number of years, this is just my first real onroad car and I want to learn to drive and set it up well from those that run this car.

And yes, the track is small but I found that it is much harder to go fast on this track than a larger one. There is more traffic and less room for mistakes. The other drivers who race on a large track said they find is a little easier on a big track, or they could mean easier on the cars!

I know 90% of my trouble come from my driving and not the car but I can't help but think there is something that can be done to help with my lack of experience in getting around the track.

[YOUTUBE]
eSKH8EQbzQo
[/YOUTUBE]

For example, in this video I qualified 3rd. This was where I changed to the narrow front hexes to see what that felt like. I endded up in 2nd place beating the other xray driver (blue/yellow car) but behind the tc6 (green/white in first). You can see make a lot of driving mistakes as i got used to the narrow hexes during the first few laps. Then I got a little quicker.

If you watch the 1st place car he just glides through the s turns after the first sweep, which he goes though at almost full throttle. I had to let off way too much to get through there. You can see at the end I was holding him off from lapping me again but I got myself into bad positions as he was riding my rear throught the turns so much I found myself really pushing, car and skills.

It was a fun race and I am learning a lot about the car with all of your guys help. Hopefully you don't all switch to the 2012 and abandon me!
Like I said, looking at the video, practice is what's needed. The guy who won has an arse endy car to get him round such a tight track, driving a car like that is much harder and requires more skill.

Put it this way, the track I was running at yesterday, I let one of my mates have a go with my car, he normally finishes around 25 secs back from me. He couldn't even get my car round the track, handing me my radio after one and a half laps, saying "that is impossible to drive, how in the hell can you drive it?".

That's the problem, the quickest cars are always the hardest to drive.

All you need to do is get a setup that works for YOU and practice, practice practice. If you do this, you may be 0.1 secs slower per lap than the fastest setup, but over the race you will be 10 secs quicker.

Although, if your not running one, would seriously consider putting in a gear diff at the front with around 250-300k oil in it, your track doesn't seem to need much pull out of the corners, which you'll lose with this, but you'll get much more steering entering the corners, you'll also notice the car is more precise and easier to drive.

This would be the main change on this track.

Last edited by Mb3195; 11-27-2011 at 11:42 AM. Reason: Missed off original reply
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