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Xray T3 2011

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Old 11-22-2011, 10:24 AM
  #3661  
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post




I use Hudy setup gauges, I may have to check out with my regular gauge! I hope not as I really like how precise the setup stands are.

The hudy set up station looks fantastic, is beautifully made, comes in a lovely box and is great for initial build but its your tyres that are in contact with the track so set your camber off the wheels, you will be amazed how much better the car will drive

I'm not so complementory about the Hudy board, I've not seen a flat one yet
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
H1/H2 links on the front (long length) L1/L2 on the rear (long length). The short ones wont allow you to change direction quickly enough if you have a tight track.
Check! I think I am going to revert back to the rubber tire setup sheet provided with the kit. They have the h1/h2 listed and the middle roll center blocks. If I don't get the traction I need I will change out the rears.

Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
With droop I just use the droop gauge, I dont find the other method accurate enough unless you have setup wheels. Try a droop gauge and go 5.5 at the front 4.5 at the rear.
I do have a droop gauge and blocks. What I do is set the car down on the board with the wheels on and measure the ride height. Then I slowly lift the car sliding the ride height gauge under the car until the wheels lift off the ground. The difference is what the droop is on the car. I then take the wheels off and use the droop gauge/blocks to accurately adjust the downstops to get the droop I want. If for example the rear of the car droops 5mm and when I put it on the blocks and the guage measures 4, I move the arm up until it reaches 6. This will give me a droop of 3 since I removed 2mm of downtravel.

I pay little attention to the numbers but rather use them as a refference to get my settings. I see on the setup sheet listings of downstop values, I'd rather see them as droop values. If I do put a downstop value on there is is only the number I need to get the droop I need...make sense? I hope so cause my head hurts after typing that.

Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
DOnt pay any attention to the quick reference guide, I find alot of things it tells you to do are the opposite to what actually happens.

Shoot! I kinda liked that sheet...if this happens do this, etc...made tuning seem kinda easy for a newb. Conditions are so drastically different that I can see how a sheet like that can be misleading sometimes.
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Old 11-22-2011, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
Still struggling a bit with both of my cars, T3'11 and my T3'10. The '10 I can live with to a point since it is just running a vta.

Both almost seem hypersensitive/twitchy (more so with the vta) but the main trouble I am still having is corner speed. I can get around the slow corners pretty good thanks to all your help but I still oversteer (?) in the long corners under heavy throttle.

I am unsure if it is happening at corner entry and that is when the momentum changes, indicating too much initial steering (to me). Or if it is happening mid corner under power. If I reduce speed before the turns I can navigate them pretty clean but I am loosing ground there.

Here are my current setups.
Flip your rear inner rc to hole 4, only dope 1/2 or your front tires, and move your rear shocks out 3 holes from the bottom. Use the stock hexes front and back.
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Old 11-22-2011, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
........Flip your rear inner rc to hole 4.........
I thought that the length of this link helped set the camber gain. Short link = more camber gain.

Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
...... only dope 1/2 or your front tires.........
Great idea, never thought of that! Makes sense as it will promote a little understeer/push
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Old 11-22-2011, 12:57 PM
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I received my T3 2011 today. I bought it second hand but I'm going to rebuild the car this weekend. The pistons in the shocks are the adjustable ones. Are these any good? They look handy, but I'm not sure if they are as good as normal pistons.
And the default shock oil front/rear is 350cts, but that seems pretty thin to me. I'm running the car on carpet tracks. It would be nice if someone could tell me what pistons and oils I should run to start with. And what oil is right for a gear diff? (Spec R in the rear)
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Old 11-22-2011, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
I thought that the length of this link helped set the camber gain. Short link = more camber gain.



Great idea, never thought of that! Makes sense as it will promote a little understeer/push
The short link will give you more side bite, should help the oversteer on apex out of corner feel.
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
I received my T3 2011 today. I bought it second hand but I'm going to rebuild the car this weekend. The pistons in the shocks are the adjustable ones. Are these any good? They look handy, but I'm not sure if they are as good as normal pistons.
And the default shock oil front/rear is 350cts, but that seems pretty thin to me. I'm running the car on carpet tracks. It would be nice if someone could tell me what pistons and oils I should run to start with. And what oil is right for a gear diff? (Spec R in the rear)
rear diff you can run 600-2000cst, depending on your tracks bite. i'm currently running 700, i have tried 2000 and 1000. 700 feels the best and i'm running on low/med bite carpet

from what i have read on this thread and now i can attest to, that running 350 oil front and rear is a good start, which i think is 30w xray. Don't stray too far from that. Pistons is all a personal preferance, it's nice to change quicky if you want. start w 3 hole open front and rear and adjust from there in the front. I'm running 35w from all away around, 3 holes open, 0 rebound

hope this helps
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:35 PM
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Are many people running the 6 degree castor blocks? I have been trying them out lately and they give massive amounts of steering mid corner, but can be a little twitchy.
Our track has alot of 180 degree corners and get fantastic results with the 6 degree blocks and -.75 hexes for steering , but another track I visit has really long sweepers an the car tends to oversteer and spin out half way round the long sweepers. Could it be the hexes, 6 degree caster blocks, or maybe the short wheelbase? I love the local setup and dont want to have to change everything to get the car working at another track.

setup sheet here for testing, but when I was having the issues I was running 2.7 rear spring, and -.75 hexes all round
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011
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Old 11-22-2011, 06:26 PM
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Default Top deck

Was drilled in my last race and broke my top deck. Do I have any options cheaper than the $47.00 Xray piece? Thanks
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Old 11-22-2011, 06:37 PM
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Default T3 Top deck

Anyone use this one?


Click To Enlarge
Xray T3'11 Top Deck

2.0mm carbon fiber replacement top deck gives increased traction, responce and easier removal of the center shaft/spur gear assembly.
Cefx
1pc.

Item #: 19010
19010 Xray T3'11 Top Deck
Price:
$26.00
Sale Price:
$15.60
* Marked fields are required.
Availability: In-Stock
Qty: *
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:37 PM
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Havent used that one, but I have the CSO racing top deck from RCMushroom, that works fine and is around $20 from memory.
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by haywood View Post
Anyone use this one?


Click To Enlarge
Xray T3'11 Top Deck

2.0mm carbon fiber replacement top deck gives increased traction, responce and easier removal of the center shaft/spur gear assembly.
Cefx
1pc.

Item #: 19010
19010 Xray T3'11 Top Deck
Price:
$26.00
Sale Price:
$15.60
* Marked fields are required.
Availability: In-Stock
Qty: *
I'll try and help,
The top deck with the holes for the steering post will have the most steering and be a little more aggressive. The "Flexi" version of this top deck should be a little less aggressive ( most like the stock top deck ). Both have the posts in them.

The Split top deck would be less aggressive and a little smoother mid corner. With the stiffer one being more aggressive then the "flexi" as well.

Flexi is due the carbon being a bi-directional carbon rather then thinner or more cut out as you may have seen with other car companies parts.

The bonus to all of the CEFX top decks is that it is easier to remove your spur. Simply loosen the 6 rear screws about half way and you can take the two spur gear holder screws out. And with a pair of tweezers you can slide the plastic bearing clamps out and the spur comes right out.

I would try the stiff top deck and/or the stiff split deck. I use the top deck as more of a tuning option rather then this one works in all situations.

Best regards,
James

PS most of the guys here have been running the top deck you listed and like it very much, me included.
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by haywood View Post
Anyone use this one?


Click To Enlarge
Xray T3'11 Top Deck

2.0mm carbon fiber replacement top deck gives increased traction, responce and easier removal of the center shaft/spur gear assembly.
Cefx
1pc.

Item #: 19010
19010 Xray T3'11 Top Deck
Price:
$26.00
Sale Price:
$15.60
* Marked fields are required.
Availability: In-Stock
Qty: *
i have a cso racing one for sale......
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Old 11-23-2011, 07:31 AM
  #3674  
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Originally Posted by Bigz84 View Post
rear diff you can run 600-2000cst, depending on your tracks bite. i'm currently running 700, i have tried 2000 and 1000. 700 feels the best and i'm running on low/med bite carpet

from what i have read on this thread and now i can attest to, that running 350 oil front and rear is a good start, which i think is 30w xray. Don't stray too far from that. Pistons is all a personal preferance, it's nice to change quicky if you want. start w 3 hole open front and rear and adjust from there in the front. I'm running 35w from all away around, 3 holes open, 0 rebound

hope this helps
Thank you! Is that 35w xray oil or an other brand? The xray oils seem very thick compared to other brands.
In offroad, we tend to go up 50-100cts in the front shocks because it's makes the car more stable. But you don't do that in onroad right?
The tracks I drive on are all carpet, but there's a new track in the neighbor and the grip is low pretty low. Especially in long fast sweeping corners with a brake point at the end.
The other track I drive on it bumpy and tight but very high grip. My Mi1 was traction rolling the first 2-3min after I applied traction compound.
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
Thank you! Is that 35w xray oil or an other brand? The xray oils seem very thick compared to other brands.
In offroad, we tend to go up 50-100cts in the front shocks because it's makes the car more stable. But you don't do that in onroad right?
The tracks I drive on are all carpet, but there's a new track in the neighbor and the grip is low pretty low. Especially in long fast sweeping corners with a brake point at the end.
The other track I drive on it bumpy and tight but very high grip. My Mi1 was traction rolling the first 2-3min after I applied traction compound.
The Xray W oils are for offroad, the cst are for touring cars. I've heard the Xray 30w oil is very thick, not sure what cst that would equat to.

For carpet, run anywhere between 350cst-550cst.
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