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Old 11-18-2011, 03:38 PM   #3646
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Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
Are you measuring camber in millimeters, or degrees?

Once you start getting the ring of death on a tire, you're not going to get it to go away, you can just adjust the camber and toe to try to prevent it from happening on a new set.

On my car, I think I'm between .5 and 1 degree in the front for asphalt, and run between 1 and 2 degrees in the front for carpet.

For bump steer, you want to shim under the steering link so that you have the least amount of bump steer from your ride height to full suspension compression you can manage.
mistype... -2 degrees rear camber -1mm front
1mm toe out.

will try 1mm under the streering block
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Old 11-18-2011, 03:44 PM   #3647
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Hey Todd,
Why don't you swing by my pit on sunday and we can get you some more rear grip figured out.

How many runs do you have on your tires??

LMK.

-James
hey bro, how's the family?
better yet, take my car for a spin and tell me how you think it feels, balance wise. i'll print off the setup

tires have about 3 race weeks and practice days on them... i'd say 25-30 runs on them...maybe...
see you sunday
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Old 11-18-2011, 04:38 PM   #3648
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Scoop, are you saying my droop needs to be closer to my ride height? As is stands now I have 2mm droop in the front and 3mm in the rear. I use those spaces to record my droop measurements, not the actual downstops as I find that changes from car to car. My numbers most likely 5 in the rear ans 6 up front if I had to guess. Wouldn't reducing the droop in the rear cause less weight to be shifted right to left as well as front to back. I think I need the weight to transfer right to left.

I was working from your set up sheet. You can measure droop in two ways. One, you use something like the Hudy set up gear and set the droop screws with that gauge or, as I now think you do, is measure from the ride height how much your chassis lifts before the wheels lift of the board (preferably at the same time) I was talking about the former.
Anyway, how did it go?
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:24 PM   #3649
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I will need a new chassis, with 90degree servo position. I'm looking at the zeppin chassis which has accommodation for this position. Reason is CSO are out of stock. Besides the zeppin servo brace, what else is required, if any?
Nothing, dont use the zeppin steering brace, you done need it and it makes the install a pain in the A$$. I chucked mine to the kerb as it was a pain.

Copy the 2012 design with the steering linkage connected directly to the right hand steering arm. Check back through this thread, there are heaps of pictures and explanations of how to do it. XRAY basically copied the design work that was done by all the drivers in here and put it in the 2012 car.

Let me know how that new zeppin chassis goes, I tried to low traction one and the handling was interesting to say the least, too flexy.
The newer version looks nice, looks to fix the issues of the first zeppin chassis which were the steering servo mount and too much flex
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:40 PM   #3650
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Nothing, dont use the zeppin steering brace, you done need it and it makes the install a pain in the A$$. I chucked mine to the kerb as it was a pain.
why do you think i got the exotek one.....and i know i could have put a hole in the original one...but with the exotek the link is slightly shorter than kit 2012 which probably makes no difference what so ever...but it looks good with the link directly in the middle........ also if anyone want a spare new t3 11 main chassis i have one for sale
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Old 11-19-2011, 05:25 PM   #3651
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XRAY basically copied the design work that was done by all the drivers in here and put it in the 2012 car.
If you have a good look back at the development of this servo position you will find that Alexander Hagberg's ETS car was one of the first pictures of this servo position! I Guess Xray copied their own team driver hey...
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Old 11-19-2011, 06:53 PM   #3652
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
If you have a good look back at the development of this servo position you will find that Alexander Hagberg's ETS car was one of the first pictures of this servo position! I Guess Xray copied their own team driver hey...
that they did ben....still like the exotek idea better to tell you the truth
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Old 11-19-2011, 09:16 PM   #3653
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
If you have a good look back at the development of this servo position you will find that Alexander Hagberg's ETS car was one of the first pictures of this servo position! I Guess Xray copied their own team driver hey...
Indeed, and the drivers have finessed the design to what it is now. First recorded pic I have seen of the steering arm was from PIMP in the forums here, Alex Hagburg connected it directly to the screw in the steering rack, PIMP put it into the steering arm exactly where xray put it in the 2012 car.
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Old 11-20-2011, 09:04 AM   #3654
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So in the hnt for traction and changing setups etc... I remembered being told one that the tires are the first thing to look at.

I made some of the setup changes you guys suggested and the car was a lot better. Still felt a little loose in the rear and very twtichy/responsive up front.

For example, I couldn't keep the speed up really high through the big sweeping turns without breaking loose then turn way too sharp turning into the inner wall after making the turn.

So...tiresm what is everyone using now-a-days? I have heard that Jaco Blues work awesome but that they don't make them anymore only to have someone else say they are still making them, just out of stock. My local track is specing jaco blues or sweep 28s. The jaco is a 32 right? Wouldn't the 28 give me more traction?

My current tires don't hook up until about 2 minutes into the race when they get heated up. I am using paragon FX II but have been thinking of switching to sticky fingers or jack the gripper.
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Old 11-20-2011, 01:16 PM   #3655
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
So in the hnt for traction and changing setups etc... I remembered being told one that the tires are the first thing to look at.

I made some of the setup changes you guys suggested and the car was a lot better. Still felt a little loose in the rear and very twtichy/responsive up front.

For example, I couldn't keep the speed up really high through the big sweeping turns without breaking loose then turn way too sharp turning into the inner wall after making the turn.

So...tiresm what is everyone using now-a-days? I have heard that Jaco Blues work awesome but that they don't make them anymore only to have someone else say they are still making them, just out of stock. My local track is specing jaco blues or sweep 28s. The jaco is a 32 right? Wouldn't the 28 give me more traction?


What change's did you go for in the end then? Do you only run foams or are the Sweep 28's rubber? The tires you use will depend on the temperatures you are racing in. As its a lot cooler where i am now we are generally changing to 28's but with additive and tire warmers a lot are still using 32's. I like the Jack the Gripper but havent tried that many.
My current tires don't hook up until about 2 minutes into the race when they get heated up. I am using paragon FX II but have been thinking of switching to sticky fingers or jack the gripper.
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Old 11-20-2011, 01:18 PM   #3656
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.
Not sure what i did there but my reply is in the last paragraph
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Old 11-20-2011, 01:21 PM   #3657
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Not sure what i did there but my reply is in the last paragraph
You put your reply before the "[/QUOTE]"

Last edited by mazmorbid; 11-21-2011 at 07:12 AM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 11-21-2011, 12:22 AM   #3658
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
So in the hnt for traction and changing setups etc... I remembered being told one that the tires are the first thing to look at.

I made some of the setup changes you guys suggested and the car was a lot better. Still felt a little loose in the rear and very twtichy/responsive up front.

For example, I couldn't keep the speed up really high through the big sweeping turns without breaking loose then turn way too sharp turning into the inner wall after making the turn.

So...tiresm what is everyone using now-a-days? I have heard that Jaco Blues work awesome but that they don't make them anymore only to have someone else say they are still making them, just out of stock. My local track is specing jaco blues or sweep 28s. The jaco is a 32 right? Wouldn't the 28 give me more traction?

My current tires don't hook up until about 2 minutes into the race when they get heated up. I am using paragon FX II but have been thinking of switching to sticky fingers or jack the gripper.
jaco blues are a 28,and I would only use either Jack the gripper or SXT 3.0 i believe,which ever is the newest # of SXT. Ive been using SXT as well as 90% of peopele around me for month now and love it better than Jack!! With that being said though,try and use what is the most commonly used traction compound at your track or where your racing as it will have the most soaked in the carpet already and better your traction. Mixing traction compounds from what is being used as the norm at a track does not produce good results,from what I've found and been told.
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Old 11-21-2011, 12:14 PM   #3659
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jaco blues are a 28,and I would only use either Jack the gripper or SXT 3.0 i believe,which ever is the newest # of SXT. Ive been using SXT as well as 90% of peopele around me for month now and love it better than Jack!! With that being said though,try and use what is the most commonly used traction compound at your track or where your racing as it will have the most soaked in the carpet already and better your traction. Mixing traction compounds from what is being used as the norm at a track does not produce good results,from what I've found and been told.

JACO Blues are 32.
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Old 11-21-2011, 12:44 PM   #3660
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What change's did you go for in the end then? Do you only run foams or are the Sweep 28's rubber? The tires you use will depend on the temperatures you are racing in. As its a lot cooler where i am now we are generally changing to 28's but with additive and tire warmers a lot are still using 32's. I like the Jack the Gripper but havent tried that many.

Well, I went down to a 4mm shim on the rear upright, put 350 weight oil back in the front, went to the -.75 hinge pin holders in the rear, and changed to -2 degrees camber in the rear.

Here is a link to the video. My car is the orange white one. I qualified 2nd and finished in 2nd but I am not 100% sure it was my setup or driving. There is a lot of traffic on the track and the other drivers got stuck often. Please don't pay too close attention to my bad driving, which is more troublesome than the setup. In fact, most of my setup requests probably could be handled by better driving!

Anyways, I noticed if I throttled back on the large turns I could navigate them well without trouble. The problem arose when I tried to go through the turns faster, the rear would wash out. Turning did not seem to be a problem but I would still like to keep some quick corner speed manuverability. I had my end points down to about 80 percent which was nice as I didn't have the spool chattering on every turn like I did last week.

You can also notice some weird behavior after the turn as the car seemed to stay in the turn too long. Most likely my driving there.

The first turn after the straight has been a killer for me. There is a lot of slow traffic and to get around it you have to pass on the outside. Once you get out of the groove there is no traction sending you into the wall!

I'd like to be able to stay on the power sooner on the long turn before the straight and longer into the turn after the straight to keep the speed up.
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