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Old 11-17-2011, 08:26 AM   #3616
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It is noticeably louder than my t3'10. Not sure if it is due to the fact that the '10 is used or not. I am hoping that the quiets down as it settles in. Nothing binds int he drive train, it is just noisy!

I don't think that any of the local clubs have a minimum weight. I have abot 45/55 front to rear bias right now. I added the xray 20g weight in the centerline but after installing it I regret it as I think it added a little rear bias to the car. Kinda a poor design in my book at you can't use the battery stops with it and it makes the battery too loose in the holders. Not what i would expect from xray and not what I would expect from a $25 chunk of brass! I wish I could take it back. I was sucked in to the marketing on that one.
Is your spur gear and pinion gear in good shape? Any missing teeth, bent teeth or anything? Do you have the stock axels/dogbones, if so change to the ECS front and rear and that will quiet the car down and make it much more smoother. My 11 is real quiet all I hear is the spinning of the mesh as it goes by the driver stand. I have the ECS aswell. Use battery tape instead of the velcro strap. You can buy the hudy black strapping tape or just go to home depot and by some strapping tape which is clear. I'm new at driving so believe me if i've taken plenty of hits, off the track crashes and the battery has yet to come out with tape...
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:25 AM   #3617
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Is your spur gear and pinion gear in good shape? Any missing teeth, bent teeth or anything? Do you have the stock axels/dogbones, if so change to the ECS front and rear and that will quiet the car down and make it much more smoother. My 11 is real quiet all I hear is the spinning of the mesh as it goes by the driver stand. I have the ECS aswell. Use battery tape instead of the velcro strap. You can buy the hudy black strapping tape or just go to home depot and by some strapping tape which is clear. I'm new at driving so believe me if i've taken plenty of hits, off the track crashes and the battery has yet to come out with tape...

New pinion, new spur so nothing is missing or bent and I have checked them. Last night I loosened the belts a bit and that did reduce the noise a bit. Still not as smooth as I imagined a belt car would sound but better. The front belt really dances around a bit as the speed go up. Not as quiet as my T3'10 but I imagine it will quiet down as it settles in.

I am using strapping tape and find it to hold the battery quite well.
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Old 11-17-2011, 06:40 PM   #3618
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Parts availablity.
Spec r make aftermarket plastic diff blade things. Cheaper than original and seem to work fine.
Not sure about other brands, alot of things are interchangeable I have found.
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Old 11-17-2011, 06:54 PM   #3619
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So I did some tuning and was able to get around the tight corners on my track. I evened out the weight balance front to rear on the car so each end of the car shows the same weight. Car really has some turning now.

Trouble is the back end is a little too lose. I am nt quite sure i want to remove the weight from the front as it really gets around the turns nice but how can I plant the rear a little tighter?

I haven't cut the top deck yet, that is going to be the first thing I try but what are some other general adjustments I can make to increase the rear end traction.
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Old 11-17-2011, 09:10 PM   #3620
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
So I did some tuning and was able to get around the tight corners on my track. I evened out the weight balance front to rear on the car so each end of the car shows the same weight. Car really has some turning now.

Trouble is the back end is a little too lose. I am nt quite sure i want to remove the weight from the front as it really gets around the turns nice but how can I plant the rear a little tighter?

I haven't cut the top deck yet, that is going to be the first thing I try but what are some other general adjustments I can make to increase the rear end traction.
Could you please post details of your basic setup? It would make it very easy to diagnose your problem.
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:02 PM   #3621
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Here ya go
Attached Files
File Type: pdf t3'11.pdf (481.0 KB, 185 views)
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:37 PM   #3622
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Here ya go
If it is a corner entry issue, I would suggest lengthening the front wheelbase, as it may be transferring too much weight forward. If it's a corner exit issue, I would suggest taking the angle out of your rear hingepins. Cutting the top deck for more flex is pretty radical. It also may just mask problems rather than fix them.
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Old 11-18-2011, 01:49 AM   #3623
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
So I did some tuning and was able to get around the tight corners on my track. I evened out the weight balance front to rear on the car so each end of the car shows the same weight. Car really has some turning now.

Trouble is the back end is a little too lose. I am nt quite sure i want to remove the weight from the front as it really gets around the turns nice but how can I plant the rear a little tighter?

I haven't cut the top deck yet, that is going to be the first thing I try but what are some other general adjustments I can make to increase the rear end traction.
Take one or two mm spacers out of the top of the rear upright, run -.75 roll center blocks in the back(slows corner speed dramatically though), softer rear spring.
I have found the sweet spot for rear traction is closer to 1.5 degrees camber, 2 maximum. 2.5 and it just breaks loose to easily and chews the inside of the tyre
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Old 11-18-2011, 03:15 AM   #3624
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Here ya go
try going slightly softer on the front end 2.8 springs maybe, will keep the balance of the car more even. I've also found that leaning the rear shocks all the way down tends to do the opposite to what you might expect, I seem to get more back end when they are leaned up one hole.

I think you also have slightly too much camber, anti squat can also make your back end break away, although it will give more grip under acceleration.
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Old 11-18-2011, 04:22 AM   #3625
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I will need a new chassis, with 90degree servo position. I'm looking at the zeppin chassis which has accommodation for this position. Reason is CSO are out of stock. Besides the zeppin servo brace, what else is required, if any?
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Old 11-18-2011, 04:28 AM   #3626
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the zeppin brace requires around 6mm of shimming...i have a new zeppin brace i dont need...because i got the exotek one instead...
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Old 11-18-2011, 05:40 AM   #3627
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Mera'din, Just try this;
Three or four holes open in your rear shocks, camber to 2 deg's all round and change the rear roll centre to position 1 (inner lower). The other thing is that your droop settings should be nearer 5 each end as they are allowing too much weight transfer, especially to the front.
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Old 11-18-2011, 05:44 AM   #3628
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Also, I see that your rear diff setting is loose. Tighten it up and the belt, for better performance and maybe stop the noise as it might be slipping.
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Old 11-18-2011, 07:22 AM   #3629
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Seems like lowering the rear hinge pins came up more than one and changing the rear toe to around 2 as well. I will give those a try. I need a simple place to start as the races are tonight and I haven't time for a rebuild.

Gonna keep the narrow front width as when I had it wider I couldn't make the turns, now I have plent of turn in. The trouble appears to be mid corner on power. The rear break loose as I don't think the weight is getting over fast enough.

So far I am going to lighten the rear shocks, reduce to 2 degree camber in the rear, and lower the inner suspension pin mounts.

Scoop, are you saying my droop needs to be closer to my ride height? As is stands now I have 2mm droop in the front and 3mm in the rear. I use those spaces to record my droop measurements, not the actual downstops as I find that changes from car to car. My numbers most likely 5 in the rear ans 6 up front if I had to guess. Wouldn't reducing the droop in the rear cause less weight to be shifted right to left as well as front to back. I think I need the weight to transfer right to left.

I did end up cutting the rear deck as many people have reported success doing it. If I don't like it I can always get a replacement.
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Old 11-18-2011, 07:42 AM   #3630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
Seems like lowering the rear hinge pins came up more than one and changing the rear toe to around 2 as well. I will give those a try. I need a simple place to start as the races are tonight and I haven't time for a rebuild.

Gonna keep the narrow front width as when I had it wider I couldn't make the turns, now I have plent of turn in. The trouble appears to be mid corner on power. The rear break loose as I don't think the weight is getting over fast enough.

So far I am going to lighten the rear shocks, reduce to 2 degree camber in the rear, and lower the inner suspension pin mounts.

Scoop, are you saying my droop needs to be closer to my ride height? As is stands now I have 2mm droop in the front and 3mm in the rear. I use those spaces to record my droop measurements, not the actual downstops as I find that changes from car to car. My numbers most likely 5 in the rear ans 6 up front if I had to guess. Wouldn't reducing the droop in the rear cause less weight to be shifted right to left as well as front to back. I think I need the weight to transfer right to left.

I did end up cutting the rear deck as many people have reported success doing it. If I don't like it I can always get a replacement.
let me know how you liked the cut top deck and what your car's reaction was. I'm curious on what it will do on a carpet track w/ low/med bite, please...
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