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Old 11-16-2011, 01:08 AM   #3601
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Yeap they are aluminum. On some of the setups they read Droop: 2.5mms above ride height in front and rear. Can someone explain this in actual droop terms?
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
I can try as this is what I interpret it to mean. You settle the suspension and measure the ride height. Then, place the ruler again the car and lift the car by the shock towers. The point at which the tires come off the ground is the droop setting. You would turn the droop screws in or out so the wheels will come off the ground at the desired height, in your example, 2.5mm.
This is correct. Technically, droop is the amount of suspension down travel/ chassis up travel before the "droop screws" contact the chassis.

The setup sheet lists suspension down stop. By definition, they're related, because you're limiting the down travel of the suspension arms, but this is not the same as droop, simply because droop takes into account ride height [along with tire size, insert firmness, etc] as well as the down stop setting.

Measuring droop ORH [over ride height] is easier for other people to copy a given setup because it limits the effect of tire choice, set your ride height, set the droop ORH as specified, and you're done. Setting ride height and using a down stop value can lead to wide variations in the actual amount of droop in the setup.

Don't throw your down stop blocks away though, they're very handy for making sure your suspension down stop settings are even side-to-side, and if you use the same tires all the time [like possibly a spec tire for your club], down stop settings can be used to adjust your droop a bit more consistently than trying to measure the chassis up travel "just as the tires leave the setup board".

Lots of ways to skin this cat.
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Also, compared to my T3'10, my '11 is pretty loud. I am pretty sure it is the gears but the mesh is fine. Anyone else find this? Where can I start the search? Everything spins freely, just noisy on the bench. I will see if I can post some video or something.

Also, what is the optimum weight for the '11? I don't see this stat on any setup sheets. How should I balance the car out? Even front/rear, weight more forward?
My car is balanced at 25% each tire, and I'm quite happy with it. I keep meaning to experiment with more weight forward or rearward, but the car's so good already that I haven't bothered. Maybe this winter I'll get around to testing it.
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Old 11-16-2011, 01:12 AM   #3602
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I hate to bring up the esc drive shafts again but I have done some reading on them which just means I am more confused than before.

I have a T3'11 for sedan that use the spool and stock 52mm shafts. It rattles but I am going to live with it for now.

i also have a t3'10 setup for vta. It rattles and I would like to try the ecs shafts on this as a test. I have heard from fellow racers that the esc shafts (xray/spec-r0 break easier than the stock shafts so I want to try them here.

Basically I see 3 choices...
52mm Xray
50mm Xray
Spec-r

The Spec-r shafts don't give a size so I that is were i get confused. I don't have the funds to switch the entire car over. The Spec-r shafts have a better price but how long are they? Will I notice a difference between the lengths if the front is 50mm and the rear is 52?

I'd go with the Spec-r shafts but not if it means replacing all 4 corners with new shafts.
You can also get arrowmax, the only weakness is the pins which xray make in the same size, but in 17.5 the stock pins would be fine
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Old 11-16-2011, 01:30 AM   #3603
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[QUOTE=Mera'din;9916967]Also, compared to my T3'10, my '11 is pretty loud. I am pretty sure it is the gears but the mesh is fine. Anyone else find this? Where can I start the search? Everything spins freely, just noisy on the bench. I will see if I can post some video or something.

[QUOTE]


I've a several spur gears, the Xray kit spur is much noisier than the others, not sure if that is a bad thing, the car can be a bit disconcerting to drive when you cant hear anything.

Bb
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Old 11-16-2011, 05:51 AM   #3604
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
I can try as this is what I interpret it to mean. You settle the suspension and measure the ride height. Then, place the ruler again the car and lift the car by the shock towers. The point at which the tires come off the ground is the droop setting. You would turn the droop screws in or out so the wheels will come off the ground at the desired height, in your example, 2.5mm.
Dude thanks.
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:02 AM   #3605
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
Also, compared to my T3'10, my '11 is pretty loud. I am pretty sure it is the gears but the mesh is fine. Anyone else find this? Where can I start the search? Everything spins freely, just noisy on the bench. I will see if I can post some video or something.

Also, what is the optimum weight for the '11? I don't see this stat on any setup sheets. How should I balance the car out? Even front/rear, weight more forward?
Shouldn't be noisier than any other car. Optimum weight I would say the minimum your club allows.
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:16 AM   #3606
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Thanks all for your help! Sorry for asking so many questions but hopefully I am not the only benefitting from them.


Midnight,

Don't throw away your droop guages and blocks. I find them to be valuable tool in my setup arsenal. When I find out the droop of my car I use them to set the correct droop very accurately from side to side.

For example, say I wanted 3mm of rear droop. I would set my car at ride height and then lift the car from the bench. I either do this by lifting it up at the shock tower or by sliding my ride height guage under the car. I measure the height that the wheels come off the ground and then subtract the ride height, this is my droop value. Let's say I get 5mm of down travel (droop) before the wheels lift from the bench. I then know I need to take away 2mm of down travel and I use my droop guage and blocks to accurately adjust the downstops to set my drop at 3mm.

Make sense? Hope so as it made sense in my head while writing it!
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:22 AM   #3607
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Shouldn't be noisier than any other car. Optimum weight I would say the minimum your club allows.
It is noticeably louder than my t3'10. Not sure if it is due to the fact that the '10 is used or not. I am hoping that the quiets down as it settles in. Nothing binds int he drive train, it is just noisy!

I don't think that any of the local clubs have a minimum weight. I have abot 45/55 front to rear bias right now. I added the xray 20g weight in the centerline but after installing it I regret it as I think it added a little rear bias to the car. Kinda a poor design in my book at you can't use the battery stops with it and it makes the battery too loose in the holders. Not what i would expect from xray and not what I would expect from a $25 chunk of brass! I wish I could take it back. I was sucked in to the marketing on that one.
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:31 PM   #3608
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
Also, compared to my T3'10, my '11 is pretty loud. I am pretty sure it is the gears but the mesh is fine. Anyone else find this? Where can I start the search? Everything spins freely, just noisy on the bench. I will see if I can post some video or something.

Also, what is the optimum weight for the '11? I don't see this stat on any setup sheets. How should I balance the car out? Even front/rear, weight more forward?
Whatever the minimum is where you run.

Don't discount using a lightweight body either and putting any weight required on the chassis.
hHe lightweight bodies allow for quicker direction changes as there is less weight to move.

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Old 11-16-2011, 01:18 PM   #3609
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Yeah, I have a lightweight body already. I was mainly venting on the weight thing as it surprised me how much it changed the car. I couldn't use the battry stop in the rear as the weight gets in the way causing a lot of slop in the battery and I fear on a hard hit the straps may come loose.

Also, it doesn't appear to be centered on the chasis front to back requiring more weight up front to balance the car. Just wish it had been the perfect fit as all of the rest of the xray components are.


Maybe I am missing something and it is centered on the COG and that is what counts.

Oh well, my local track doesn't have a minimum weight restriction but a few tracks within the area do. I think I will just use their restrictions as a setup point for my car in case I decide to travel.
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Old 11-16-2011, 01:35 PM   #3610
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Has anyone tried the hard steering blocks on their t3'11, same as the '12? If so do they make any real difference to how the car feels?

I was also thinking about the hard c hubs, as if anything, they seem the most flexible part on the front end.....anyone tried these also
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Old 11-16-2011, 01:55 PM   #3611
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? About lower suspension holders. Are most guys at the +75 or -75 or 0.
Nevermimd, fOund answer in manual. Think I'm going to start at 0 and go from there.
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Last edited by Midnight; 11-16-2011 at 02:07 PM.
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:11 PM   #3612
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Has anyone tried the hard steering blocks on their t3'11, same as the '12? If so do they make any real difference to how the car feels?

I was also thinking about the hard c hubs, as if anything, they seem the most flexible part on the front end.....anyone tried these also
i have switched both recently, and i did feel the car was easier to drive. it helped me by switching.
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:02 PM   #3613
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Just curious to if I can use a diff type of blade/cap on the rear of the xray with a ball diff.
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Old 11-17-2011, 06:53 AM   #3614
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Just curious to if I can use a diff type of blade/cap on the rear of the xray with a ball diff.
Why would you want to? The Xray blades last forever.
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Old 11-17-2011, 07:08 AM   #3615
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Why would you want to? The Xray blades last forever.
Parts availablity.
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