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Xray T3 2011

Old 10-28-2011, 09:52 PM
  #3466  
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Okay, I think i get it now. The +1 eccentric is a extra part you must purchase, not an adjustment on the kit.
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Old 10-29-2011, 08:42 AM
  #3467  
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
Okay, I think i get it now. The +1 eccentric is a extra part you must purchase, not an adjustment on the kit.
Yes part number 302077.

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Old 11-02-2011, 01:53 AM
  #3468  
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at the weekend my son recived his new 2012, but before we started building it i laid the 2012 chassi over my 2011 and marked out the changes.
the main changes being narrower around the rear droop adjusters and larger
holes around the diff areas. (i already had the harder front hubs, diff and latest top brackets) we went testing last night at maritime racing. wow what an improvment to the 2011! and how good is the 2012! if you have a 2011
mister dremal is your friend !!!!!
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Old 11-02-2011, 03:26 AM
  #3469  
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Originally Posted by shrek54 View Post
at the weekend my son recived his new 2012, but before we started building it i laid the 2012 chassi over my 2011 and marked out the changes.
the main changes being narrower around the rear droop adjusters and larger
holes around the diff areas. (i already had the harder front hubs, diff and latest top brackets) we went testing last night at maritime racing. wow what an improvment to the 2011! and how good is the 2012! if you have a 2011
mister dremal is your friend !!!!!
Was that using your current T3'11 setup on the T3'12, or kit setup on the new car?
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Old 11-02-2011, 11:51 AM
  #3470  
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Hey gang,

Thanks for your help and patience while I learn about this car and setup. Thank being said I have another noob question concerning droop gauges.

I have this set of gauges for measuring droop.


They look like the hudy ones mentioned in the setup manual but a little bit more affordable.

To measure Droop, all I need to do is put the car up on the blocks, stick the stepped gauge under the rear upright and viola, there is my measurement right?

I see many people say things like 2mm under ride height and such. If I do the above and set my droop screws to -2, would this give me the correct reading?

Is every car the same? It seems like one should have a base line measurement before using the gauges in this fashion. Or can I just use these to measure the downstop?
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Old 11-02-2011, 12:47 PM
  #3471  
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
Hey gang,

Thanks for your help and patience while I learn about this car and setup. Thank being said I have another noob question concerning droop gauges.

I have this set of gauges for measuring droop.


They look like the hudy ones mentioned in the setup manual but a little bit more affordable.

To measure Droop, all I need to do is put the car up on the blocks, stick the stepped gauge under the rear upright and viola, there is my measurement right?

I see many people say things like 2mm under ride height and such. If I do the above and set my droop screws to -2, would this give me the correct reading?

Is every car the same? It seems like one should have a base line measurement before using the gauges in this fashion. Or can I just use these to measure the downstop?
No 2mm OVER ride height is very different than -2 on your droop blocks. That reading is taken with a ride height gauge, measuring ride height and then picking the car up until the wheels just unload from the surface and measured, this gives you the measurement of OVER ride height, orh. Under ride height doesn't exist, just OVER. There is no conversion to take a orh reading and convert it to a droop reading, its one or the other.
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Old 11-02-2011, 01:53 PM
  #3472  
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Was that using your current T3'11 setup on the T3'12, or kit setup on the new car?
on the 2012 we started with the kit carpet setup, but raised the front roll centers and stiffened the roll bars front and rear by moving the little alloy balls in appx 5mm. going to 1.3 and 1.5 bars was to much. still a work in progress but much better than a the 2011 before the chassi dremel mod.
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Old 11-02-2011, 05:18 PM
  #3473  
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Originally Posted by shrek54 View Post
on the 2012 we started with the kit carpet setup, but raised the front roll centers and stiffened the roll bars front and rear by moving the little alloy balls in appx 5mm. going to 1.3 and 1.5 bars was to much. still a work in progress but much better than a the 2011 before the chassi dremel mod.
being a new owner of a 2011...where can i find this "dremel' mod?
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by nytryder View Post
being a new owner of a 2011...where can i find this "dremel' mod?
+1
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:38 PM
  #3475  
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you need 2012 chassis to draw that holes under the diff and spool etc. over 2011 chassis after thAT dremel out the extra CF to make same Chassis Cuts like 2012 chassis....
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:45 PM
  #3476  
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looking to make a change to the car. i was thinking of swapping the chassis. i was thinking of either:
1) sticking w/ the stock, not sure if i really want to change, and risk dumping money into something i won't like...
2) Exotec
3) CEFX "11 stiff chassis, upper and lower

am i looking for pros and cons of each and what would be easier to drive.
I have a heavy trigger finger, which i am trying to stop thru practice, so i need something that can compensate for my bad driving, or am i dreaming a chassis can do that? i have tried numerous setups, haven't found one i'm dead set comfortable w/ yet. getting closer though.

any and all comments would be helpful

i run on carpet, med bite, but by the end of the day, it's high bite. running 17.5 blinky, rubber tires

thanks
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:52 PM
  #3477  
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If I were you I could go for 2012 chassis and top deck Thats it
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by yokemad View Post
If I were you I could go for 2012 chassis and top deck Thats it
why? easier to handle? never considered that chassis, more to think about....

will all parts swap over? no alignment issues?

thanks for your input.....
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:04 PM
  #3479  
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TBH If you keep your car Stock means You got more Support
With Different Chassis You should Find YOur Own Right Setup ,I dunno your Ability but IT was always easier for me to go Xray website and check some latest setups from all over the World and start from there...
Now Im using CSO Chassis for Last couple of months and couldnt find the same CF Quality and chassis was a bit Tweaked from Day one ...
I tried Exotek Chassis on T3 but Felt so Solid with no flex and Back end...
We all winding up sometimes that Xray optimized stuff but on serious side Xray and Hudy=quality

I hope That helps
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:26 PM
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What size lipos is everyone running? Im trying to shop for new lipos but im kind of stumped as what to get. I was told by someone who is very knowledgeable to get as big as i can get like around 5500 mah. This does not seem right. I thought the whole idea was to keep it light as you could with as much mah as you needed? I was looking at some of the Roar approved packs around the 4000mah area. I really like the looks and price of the protek ones but for some reason they decided to make it round like the old stick nicads. I was also looking at the Thunder power 4300 35c packs that say TBA in the roar approved section. I just want to get something that is consistent and all the same weight so i can get my t3 balanced and dialed in. I may also want to run these packs in my vta car too. Right now i have several packs for my two on road cars and they are all different sizes and weights. I like the turnigy packs to but they are out of stock.
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